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Old 09-14-2019, 11:46 AM   #5839
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Did the CHF to our 2018 22k chassis and used TeJay's plates for the front which was an ideal solution.

At the rear, we have the Z brackets with the splined bolts, so had to pop them out in a press to reset them (removed the links entirely to do that, thankfully an easy job)

I did not use TeJay's plates at the rear, the swaybar location and angle relative to the diff pumpkin was pretty much perfect after swapping holes and flipping Z brackets. If anyone is looking for a set of his rear plates, let me know, they're just sitting here.

Got to test it on a long weekend trip - we already have Konis, Ultra-Trac bar, and Safe-T-Plus, but still a very noticeable and welcome difference with the CHF. DW noticed it as well from the passenger seat.

In the process noticed that Brazel's had put on the wrong Safe-T-Plus for our rig last year (36' 22,000lb) --- I had specified blue 230lb, not white 180lb, per email from Safe-T-Plus on the application, but for some reason they put white on. They're taking care of it next month --- big thumbs up for anyone in the northwest getting any work done, Brazel's are great!
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:56 AM   #5840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigfoot_ View Post
Did the CHF to our 2018 22k chassis and used TeJay's plates for the front which was an ideal solution.

At the rear, we have the Z brackets with the splined bolts, so had to pop them out in a press to reset them (removed the links entirely to do that, thankfully an easy job)

I did not use TeJay's plates at the rear, the swaybar location and angle relative to the diff pumpkin was pretty much perfect after swapping holes and flipping Z brackets. If anyone is looking for a set of his rear plates, let me know, they're just sitting here.

Got to test it on a long weekend trip - we already have Konis, Ultra-Trac bar, and Safe-T-Plus, but still a very noticeable and welcome difference with the CHF. DW noticed it as well from the passenger seat.

In the process noticed that Brazel's had put on the wrong Safe-T-Plus for our rig last year (36' 22,000lb) --- I had specified blue 230lb, not white 180lb, per email from Safe-T-Plus on the application, but for some reason they put white on. They're taking care of it next month --- big thumbs up for anyone in the northwest getting any work done, Brazel's are great!
You might need TeJay's rear plates. I found in situations where the rear is lifted on jacks, the sway bar contacts the E-brake housing. The plates prevent this from happening.
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:00 AM   #5841
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Originally Posted by Bsqrd View Post
You might need TeJay's rear plates. I found in situations where the rear is lifted on jacks, the sway bar contacts the E-brake housing. The plates prevent this from happening.
I could see no situations where his rear plates moved the geometry of the bar closer to the original geometry. They either moved it way down or way up (depending on which way you used them). Flipping the Ford Z brackets moved it a minimal amount - I moved it when it was loose through a wide range of travel to check for contacts (ie as if being lifted on jacks or under load hitting a bump) and of course being closest to the original position was best. I discussed it with him, there are a lot of variations in the rear swaybar layout, so this is something each owner would have to figure out. This was on a 2018 22k, so YMMV. I have pictures somewhere I think, I'll look.

The reason the bar moves only a little from its original position is that the link mounting above on the frame rail is centered right between the two holes on the sway bar end. (this is different than the front)

Now, the bar has to move more under bounce and rebound in the flipped Z bracket position, but it is a minimal increase, there is a long swing of travel available in both directions from the original mounting orientation. You'll find here in this thread pictures of TeJay's rear brackets being used in two orientations... from what I could see, with my axle and sway bar combination, neither of those positions helped, so I chose to optimize for maximum clearance in both directions. YMMV.

(edit) Now, I also asked myself, maybe there's a benefit in using the plates anyway, like at the front, for readjustment later. Turns out, that is a bust too because with the Z bracket you'd have to drill companion holes for each position and well I'd say the bracket layout would not accommodate that and it would be a bunch of work. If you didn't have rear Z brackets on the bar end, then yes this would be a benefit.
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:13 AM   #5842
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Pictures for illustration of both orientations of rear brackets (not from my rig).

If you flip them one way it moves the bar closer to the e-brake housing, if you flip it the other way it moves the bar closer to the axle pumpkin. I'll double check mine next time it is on jacks.
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:43 PM   #5843
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My differential does not hit anything so I can't experiment like you guys did. If it were mine I'd either move the Z-bracket to the SB holes and not use it on plates or just not use the Z-bracket at all.

If my differential is in question of hitting the SB I'd do what I had to do so it wasn't and just watch the situation until I was sure nothing was going to come loose. That's just MHO!!
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:14 PM   #5844
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Heavy sway in 2018 Winnebago Intent 26M

Ok, I would like to make the changes you suggested. If I am unable to complete the repairs myself, I'm guessing it will have to be done by a professional. Yeah, I am a woman and not sure I have the strength to do what others have suggested. I live in the high desert, above Palm Springs. Anyone here know of a reliable shop within 50 miles or so? Not crazy about the dealership I purchased rig from.
It gets crazy windy here, which makes it really bad!! I'm glad I wasn't one of the other vehicles traveling in the other lanes.
TIA
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:34 AM   #5845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joycev1105a View Post
Ok, I would like to make the changes you suggested. If I am unable to complete the repairs myself, I'm guessing it will have to be done by a professional. Yeah, I am a woman and not sure I have the strength to do what others have suggested. I live in the high desert, above Palm Springs. Anyone here know of a reliable shop within 50 miles or so? Not crazy about the dealership I purchased rig from.
It gets crazy windy here, which makes it really bad!! I'm glad I wasn't one of the other vehicles traveling in the other lanes.
TIA
Sorry, I don't know anyone in your area, (I'am on the other side of the country) but none of these upgrades is all that difficult and any competent Mechanic shop should be able to help you if they are willing. There are many Youtube videos that show in detail, what upgrades you need and almost step by step how to instructions.

If they quote you a labor charge, check back here and we can advise you on if the time (labor) charges are in line for the job. Most of these up grades I have done myself in my driveway, with my wife's assistance in an hour or two at most.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.
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Old 09-17-2019, 06:33 AM   #5846
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dfuelman gave you good advice especially the part about any decent shop can do these upgrades. It does not need to be a truck or RV chassis shop either.

None of the bolts on the sway control system are torqued more than 66 FT/LBS. If your torque wrench has a long handle that makes it easier. The same is true for the ratchets you'd use. The longer the handle the more mechanical force available. Even guys couldn't do this stuff if we didn't have mechanical advantage.

There are several electric impacts from Harbor Freight that can help and the price is decent. You can't use them to torque but they work well for taking things apart.

I've got the 1/2" - D (Drive) one for around $75 and I take the tire lugs off and it works well. The other one I have is battery operated and is a good buy at under $50. I also got the conversion sockets so I can use 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets for about $4.

Here's the number for the 1/2" D impact made by Chicago Pneumatic (2641) It's $50 and you can use their 20% off coupon as well. Such a deal. They don't list the 6-point 1/4" drive battery impact anymore but they might still have them. It too was under $50.

A word of caution when it comes to electric impacts. My 1/2" D one pugs in. The other one does not. The batteries (Lith-Ion) used for these are more expensive than the tool itself. That's why I bought a pug in 1/2" D. To buy a battery operated one would cost 3 times as much. And it might not be 1/2 as good. We do have a generator or are plugged in to shore power to 120 V are always available on the road.
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:41 AM   #5847
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we have a 2017 Challenger 37YT. 30K F53 Chassis. Stock now.


Has anyone done the CHF on this recent of a RV with the heavier chassis? Results? I had a 2004 Challenger 53 for 13 years did air bags for ride and sway and honestly not sure it was worth the spend.



On our new one 37YT it has the larger wheels and tires and feels more planted on the road but I would like to see whats best for the sway back and forth on curves and entrances. Also anything to absorb the expansion joint banging that happens.



I took a quick peak under RV Front to see if sway bar had two holes to adjust the location and didn't look like it had them. The sway bar on this RV is pretty large in diameter and think so I'm thinking maybe Ford addressed Sway as best they could and not adjustable now.


Any experiences on this larger chassis and photos/instructions with the CHF or air bags etc...
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Old 09-20-2019, 10:15 AM   #5848
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Bakeryman,

The 2017 or 2016 chassis is not much if any different than previous years. The stabilizer bars (SB) you may call them (anti-sway bars) but since they are designed to stabilize the chassis SB IMHO fits better and is simpler to type. They all have two holes so the CHF can be applied. Some of the link bolts may have a Z-bracket which filles up the other hole.

When you had the other coach with air bags what pressures did you carry??

We have the 18,000 2013 chassis and I've installed air bags on all 4 wheels. Some will tell you it won't help but I beg to differ. After 2,053 miles carrying 25 lbs front and 35 lbs in the rear I know it's better. No it's not an air ride but it can be made even better but that's for a later posts.

One poster responded with this statement. Grab a 1" steel bar and smack it hard against an anvil. After your hand heals do the same only add a rubber cushion to the handle and notice the difference.

I've driven two RV's that had a new front SB and two rear SB's one which was stock and one that was new. The RV road just fine. I did the CHF on the new front SB and the ride was improved even more according to the owner.
I failed to measure his new front SB. I'm thinking and hoping it was a bit larger in diameter since that's what provides more sway control.

Some may tell you adding the CHF to a larger chassis didn't give them a big difference. Here's the way I look at it. If doing the CHF gives a 5% increase that's good.

We all do a lot of driving in windy conditions. Have we all driven in the worst windy conditions yet??? I didn't prepare for mild wind gusts but did prepare for when I'll hit the next windy conditions that were worse than the last time. Do I drive in hurricanes? No!!!! And I don't plan on it either.

We are in ME and felt the last hurricane winds which only took 3-4 days to hit ME. We felt 30 to 40 MPH winds and saw high tidal waves of 12' - 15'. The next one (Humberto) will hit us today (10-AM to midnight) with high surf and winds.

Had a TT next to us who had experienced the winds of (Dorian) up in PEI Nova Scotia before they made it to ME. He said it was a windy rocking and rolling night. He can't do the CHF on a TT but had we been there it would have been less sever based on us having very good sway control.

I'm not a doomsday thinker trying to prepare for armageddon that's foolish IMO. Ya just never know when you'll hit bad winds that could be worst than the last time.
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Old 09-20-2019, 10:49 AM   #5849
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On the airbags I believe I was in the 50PSI range. I played with it a little front to back. It likely helped some but I wished for more.
I had not seen the forum on the CHF, during the 13 years of owning that one, wish I had as I could have easily done that mod. It was a 36' F53 Chassis.
I'll take a further look under the RV this weekend and see what the SB's have for holes on the ends. I may end up with airbags again at some point but.... maybe talk the DW into diesel with bags standard. All the years of RV'ing and two Class A's and I have never test drove a Class A Diesel...Like the Ford V10 especially in the new one with the 6 speed trans. We pull 18' ATV trailer or my Jeep Rubicon Unlimited in Colorado mountains and while it rev's high it tackles the hills.
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Old 09-20-2019, 11:48 AM   #5850
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I was curious so I went down to the RV garage and yep my 2017 Thor Challenger 37YT SB's do have the second hole for doing the CHF. I can also see where all the comments about the connection and extensions and angles are coming from.



Be great to see some photos of a recent 2016-2017+ F53 38' Class A 30,000lb chassis like my RV done and what all was needed for the CHF. My tires and wheels are the Alcoa Aluminum wheels and tires Michelin 255/80R/22.5


I realize there are a gazillion posts on this and I tried to search my year and chassis to get closer to my unit. Thread is like 10 years old LOL!


thank you
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:39 PM   #5851
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Bakeryman,

The CHF is just about the same for all years. Since the SB have not changed much if any and neither has much else it's just a matter of moving the link bolts to the inner holes.

For now don't worry about anything else. There have been some who just did the Fix and nothing else. Try it front and back and refine things if you're happy with how it handles. That can be a later discussion.

Send me a PM if you have specific questions. I believe i can answer just about anything concerning the CHF and all the MODs done to it.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:44 PM   #5852
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Are these what people have been noting are splined rear z-brackets? Note that the upper and lower bolts have no heads on them but the z-bracket bolts do.

The nuts are 18mm and the bolt heads are 15mm.

2019 VIN, 22,000 GVWR chassis, the rear are the only ones like this.

Ray
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