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Old 09-27-2019, 06:26 AM   #5853
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NXR

Yep I believe you nailed it. They are splined so the bolt won't turn because there is no head. I'd guess it does provide for more clearance.
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Old 09-27-2019, 09:54 AM   #5854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
Yep I believe you nailed it. They are splined so the bolt won't turn because there is no head. I'd guess it does provide for more clearance.
So the bolt is splined into the z-bracket, but obviously not into the bushing or the whole thing could not work because the bushing needs to rotate around the bolt.

I'm not understanding why people have punched the bolt out of the z-bracket and re-aligned it in the z-bracket.

Why does this not work?
  • Remove the bolt and nut from the other end of the z-bracket.

  • Remove the nut for the bushing bolt.

  • Hit the end of the bushing bolt with a rubber hammer and push it out of the bushing. The z-bracket should stay attached to the bolt as it's pushed out of the bushing. This keeps you from having to remove the top link bolts and bracket.

  • Move the now-freed lower end of the link and swap holes.

  • Re-insert the bolts and tighten the nuts to 66 ft lbs.

Confusedly yours,

Ray
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Old 09-27-2019, 11:09 AM   #5855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
Why does this not work?
  • Remove the bolt and nut from the other end of the z-bracket.
  • Remove the nut for the bushing bolt.
  • Hit the end of the bushing bolt with a rubber hammer and push it out of the bushing. The z-bracket should stay attached to the bolt as it's pushed out of the bushing. This keeps you from having to remove the top link bolts and bracket.
  • Move the now-freed lower end of the link and swap holes.
  • Re-insert the bolts and tighten the nuts to 66 ft lbs.
That's what I did. It seems to have worked just fine.
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Old 09-27-2019, 02:34 PM   #5856
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That's what I did. It seems to have worked just fine.
Thanks for the confirmation. May I ask how exactly you pushed the bolts through the bushing and how much effort was required? I'm thinking a block of wood between the bolt end and the hammer.

Ray
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Old 09-27-2019, 03:35 PM   #5857
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With 35 or mores years under my belt as a HS instructor of mechanics the level of understanding can be somewhat confusing. What seems to be obvious to some is not to others. Sometimes the first step in a MOD thwarts their desires/efforts when the obvious is not obvious to them. They get discouraged and are then afraid they might ruin something if they try to hard.

Thinking out side the box is always a plus. Often I'll leave a project and sleep on it. Get up the next morning and start again. Often the fix comes in the night and other times it's just there and I'll say, "Why didn't I think of that yesterday?"

Results like that are common and when they begin to try with some guidance and support you'd be amazed at what some who thought they were not mechanical really are and can learn a lot. That was the challenge to me. I can usually explain some concepts 10 to 15 different ways to achieve levels of understanding.

Here's was my basic premise regarding learning. My goal was to teach, show, demonstrate, explain etc, etc skills, jobs, routines to the point when a student could begin to teach themselves.

There will always be skills to learn. To perform a skill like changing an air filter is simple until you run into something that is different. Even changing the F-53 V-10 air filter is a challenge until you know the simple yet confusing secret.
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Old 09-27-2019, 06:34 PM   #5858
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Has anyone just done the chf on the rear only
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Old 09-27-2019, 06:37 PM   #5859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
Why does this not work?
  • Remove the bolt and nut from the other end of the z-bracket.
  • Remove the nut for the bushing bolt.
  • Hit the end of the bushing bolt with a rubber hammer and push it out of the bushing. The z-bracket should stay attached to the bolt as it's pushed out of the bushing. This keeps you from having to remove the top link bolts and bracket.
  • Move the now-freed lower end of the link and swap holes.
  • Re-insert the bolts and tighten the nuts to 66 ft lbs.
Confusedly yours,
Ray

Mine look exactly like what's in the picture, and this is the way I moved them as well. I don't understand the need to press the splined bolt out, I just figured there were different z-brackets. I did have to loosen the top bracket bolts a tad in order to move the links.
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Old 09-27-2019, 06:41 PM   #5860
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Chf on f53 chassis

Has anyone done The chf on the rear only
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Old 09-27-2019, 08:13 PM   #5861
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Originally Posted by mark3408 View Post
Has anyone done The chf on the rear only
Someone did and reported a big improvement but not as much when they finally did the front. People who did the front CHF first usually reported little improvement when doing the rear, if they even did it.

It makes sense because even Roadmaster has a video where they say that if you are adding another sway bar you should always do the rear before the front.

I'll be doing the rear first in a week or two. Gotta by some 1/2" sockets first because that's what my torque wrench uses and I'd rather not use adapters if at all possible.

Ray
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Old 09-27-2019, 08:26 PM   #5862
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I have done front and rear and have a great improvement on handling but the ride in front is super harsh. I also have front sumos and a road master steering spring
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Old 09-27-2019, 08:40 PM   #5863
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I put Koni's on the front of mine. Made a big difference in the ride and the hard BANG at bridges. I would think the Sumos would help that but maybe not as well as shocks.
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Old 09-28-2019, 03:34 AM   #5864
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Thanks for the confirmation. May I ask how exactly you pushed the bolts through the bushing and how much effort was required? I'm thinking a block of wood between the bolt end and the hammer.

Ray

It was only a few weeks ago that I did the CHF in the rear, but I really can't remember what I did to push the bolt out through the bushing. That must mean it wasn't too difficult. I might have tapped it out with a rubber mallet or I might even have just twisted it out by hand once the other end of the z-bracket was unbolted. Again, the fact that I don't remember makes me think it was no problem at all.

Thanks,
MathComp
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:04 AM   #5865
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We're forgetting that Sumo's are not going to help except with sway. They are a progressive hard plastic jounce bumper. If you compress them much they sure will become harsh.

I've heard the word "Harshness" following the CHF but still can't believe it does much if anthing to the rides harshness. Remember the anti-sway bars only work when one side or the other is twisted. If you are hitting road seams and you think it's harsh based on the CHF that can't be. Hitting road seams does nothing to the stabilizer bars (SB) except raise both side.
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Old 09-28-2019, 08:59 AM   #5866
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The tag in my Vista says 82 psi in all tires, but based on a lot of reading here and other sites I decided that 95 would be a good place to start. Boy was I wrong on that, and setting them back to 85-86 made a world of difference. The CHF did not have any effect on ride harshness whatsoever.
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