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Old 09-28-2019, 11:53 AM   #5867
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Originally Posted by mark3408 View Post
Has anyone done The chf on the rear only
I did. When I got TeJay’s plates I did the front. Rear only helped and also noticed more improvement when the front was done. Recommend doing both.
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Old 09-29-2019, 09:40 AM   #5868
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FWIW! Full time 21 months, ,17000 miles in a Ford F-53 dog meat chassis. Coach manufacturer irrelevant. Anyone with a trash Ford chassis understands. CHF first. Really don't know if it helped so I put on Koni shocks on. Since Koni's are adjustable, must travel some certain distance to to increase their affect I don't think they are working well with the stock rubber bumpers on the axle and chassis. Sooo I put on Sumo Springs and a differential anti sway bar on and undid the CHF. Handling and swaying much better but ride still sucks. The ford chassis is obviously cheap and the disgusting ride is the price we pay. Banging on bridge seams and seams on many highways still jar my teeth. Ride breaks glasses, knocks filaments out of light bulbs, makes every loose object in the drawers rattle. The only good thing is the muscles in my butt are getting a work out by tensing endlessly every time I approach a bridge I know will do the above mentioned deeds. Once, when totally stock, I crossed a railroad track and the entire underside panel under the steering column feel on my feet. The simple fact than any manufacturer uses this chassis is disgusting. They should at least offer an air ride or some other form of option from the factory. Enough ranting. Tires????? Some skinny Michelin's are on my unit. Michelin's are supposed to be good? I'm wondering if a wider tire, yes more money, would dampen the ride simply by having more rubber on the ground???? I've crossed the country four times in the last 21 months and have seen much. Thanks and stay off the interstates. They, for the most part, are done. I run 85 lbs cold but after a while i read upwards of 100 psi on my TPMS.
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:12 PM   #5869
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I previously had a 30' Holiday Rambler Arista with no suspension mods and it was a white knuckle affair when big rigs passed or when I was slammed by a crosswind. Our drive to the Grand Canyon from San Diego last year was exhausting! I recently sold the Rambler and purchased a Coachmen Mirada 35BH.

We recently took our first long(ish) trip in the Coachmen to Mammoth Lakes in the Sierras which is about 400 miles one way from our home, lots of steep grades, two lane freeways and tons of semis. I fully planned on doing the CHF before leaving, but time didn't allow so we made the trip without. I was fully expecting the worse, but I was stunned by how well it handled, I barely felt the big rigs or crosswinds and this is without any suspension mods. I'm sure the longer wheelbase (242") combined with the bigger chassis (22K), has a lot to do with it or maybe it was my experience with my previous rig, but I really was pleasantly surprised.

I guess my question is to the other members with similar size chassis and wheelbase that have done the CHF. How much of an improvement did you see? Perhaps the CHF benefits motorhomes with lighter chassis and shorter wheelbase? I'm currently happy with the way it drives, but if the CHF can further improve things, I'm in.

Thanks
Mike

Mike,
Just made the CHF changes to front and rear today on our 2016 Coachmen Mirada 35KB. The wife and I took it out for a test ride after and yes, can feel a difference. We are used to big left and right sway when pulling out of a parking lot or side street and experienced less after the change.
Is it the best thing ever? Don't know, as this is the first handling improvement I have tried on the coach. Am looking to add a steering stabilizer next.
Jerry
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:47 AM   #5870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skywagon View Post
Really don't know if it helped so I put on Koni shocks on. Since Koni's are adjustable, must travel some certain distance to to increase their affect I don't think they are working well with the stock rubber bumpers on the axle and chassis.
I installed the Koni's years ago and found they significantly mitigated the harshness of going over bad concrete expansion joints. Much better than stock. Lifetime warranty, but keep your receipt. I had one go bad and leak.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:48 AM   #5871
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Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
I installed the Koni's years ago and found they significantly mitigated the harshness of going over bad concrete expansion joints. Much better than stock. Lifetime warranty, but keep your receipt. I had one go bad and leak.


Did you install them front and rear or just front?
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:26 AM   #5872
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Quote:
I previously had a 30' Holiday Rambler Arista with no suspension mods and it was a white knuckle affair when big rigs passed or when I was slammed by a crosswind. Our drive to the Grand Canyon from San Diego last year was exhausting! I recently sold the Rambler and purchased a Coachmen Mirada 35BH.

We recently took our first long(ish) trip in the Coachmen to Mammoth Lakes in the Sierras which is about 400 miles one way from our home, lots of steep grades, two lane freeways and tons of semis. I fully planned on doing the CHF before leaving, but time didn't allow so we made the trip without. I was fully expecting the worse, but I was stunned by how well it handled, I barely felt the big rigs or crosswinds and this is without any suspension mods. I'm sure the longer wheelbase (242") combined with the bigger chassis (22K), has a lot to do with it or maybe it was my experience with my previous rig, but I really was pleasantly surprised.

I guess my question is to the other members with similar size chassis and wheelbase that have done the CHF. How much of an improvement did you see? Perhaps the CHF benefits motorhomes with lighter chassis and shorter wheelbase? I'm currently happy with the way it drives, but if the CHF can further improve things, I'm in.
I think it helps these posts a lot when the length, wheelbase, weight, tire size and chassis year (in addition to the manufacturer and model) are included because there are so many variables. There are many changes by Ford and the various manufacturers over the years.

For example, I've read countless times that the F53 comes with OEM Bilstein shocks. If you read this link https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources...2018_ARLSD.pdf it says this for the 2018 chassis: "All Ford Class A Motorhome Chassis are equipped with custom tuned Sachs Twin Tube front and rear shock absorbers to help provide smooth ride characteristics. Road jolts and shocks are reduced even further by the addition of front and rear variable-rate jounce bumpers."

I agree with the part I bold-faced in the previous person's reply for our Forest River GT5. Our 38' 2019 22,000 lb chassis and 242" wheelbase on 22.5" tires was pretty good right from the start. Trucks passing us push us lightly to the right but there hasn't been any white-knuckling. Yet.

That being said, we test drove a 2019 Winnebago Vista LX 35F and I would see how it could easily become a white-knuckler. It's the same 22,000 lb chassis and 35.5' but a 228" wheelbase. But that could just have been a bad front end alignment as well.

We added a Safe-T-Plus before we picked it up and just added a rear trac bar and rear Koni's. Rear because the fronts were out of stock nationwide and the rears are also in short supply. I saw Brazel's seems to have fronts in stock now so I just ordered a pair.

We've only done one drive since that change and my DW was driving so I don't know how much of a change was made. There also wasn't much crosswind. I'll be driving home.

I didn't think to do this next thing before we had the Koni's or trac bar added, unfortunately. I installed the Bubble Level app on my Android phone and placed the phone on the doghouse while my DW was driving. After subtracting out the angle of the doghouse I'm seeing 15 degrees of lean in turns. So the next step will be to do the rear CHF when we get back and see how and if it changes.

I'd suggest you do the same with your favorite app. That way you can get a definitive before and after measurement.

Ray
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:54 PM   #5873
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Amen brother they could do much better with the suspension.
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Old 10-02-2019, 02:34 PM   #5874
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I did the front CHF and they came loose, took it back to the mechanic and he was saying that perhaps that the ride would be to harsh and would cause other issues. He put locktight on this time and torqued them to suggested psi and I said I would check it out. The first short trip before they came loose was on a gravel road which was severely wash boarded which I am glad I went over as it was obvious that the proper tightening was not done.

I left on a 1600 mile trip and it was very windy with gusts up to 65mph it was a very strong side wind and it was felt but it handled well. Never experienced much when passed by a transport in either direction going 60 mph. Bumps in the front were felt but I am sure that is normal for these chassis. I had a set of front shocks installed as well as new tires all around running 80 psi all around the ride was good. I drove this 100 miles before the CHF and the motor home rocked and rolled a lot on smooth highway.

Very impressed with this change.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:58 PM   #5875
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Some technicians just don't understand (SB) stabilizer bars. They can't cause harshness. They only work when one wheel twists the SB. If both wheels cross a concrete joint it bounces hard but that's the leaf springs not the SB. SB's control the sway and that's it.

I do believe it is mentioned here very often to torque any and all the SB systems bolts to 66 ft'lbs and always add some blue lock tight as added insurance.
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:53 PM   #5876
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If one wheel hits a bump, it will be harsher with a stronger sway bar.

When the tire hits a bump, the other side of the SB, on the tire not hitting the bump, is not moving up.

The sway bar then acts as a spring, trying to stop the wheel hitting the bump from moving up. That adds to the spring on the bump side, causing a harsher feeling.

This is the same issue when doing the CHF, if the MH isn't level. You need to level the chassis or jack up under the bar to get the last bolt in.
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:23 AM   #5877
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Yes the SB is being twisted but I sure wouldn't use the word HARSH to describe it. I've set our sway control into all of the 4 positions on the adjustable plates, driven in each position at least 2,000 miles and not once did it feel harsher. To me it was just more or less sway control but not harshness.
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Old 11-04-2019, 01:32 PM   #5878
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I tried doing the rear CHF on a 2019 22,000 lb chassis today and ended up re-tightening the nuts.

Per the picture I have the type where the bottom link bolt is splined into the Z-bracket.

I could get the regular bolt loosened and almost took it all the way out but stopped short. I tapped on the link bolt, the one splined into the Z-bracket, and the bolt would not come out of the link on either side. The link moved laterally along with the bolt so I stopped.

Isn't that bolt supposed to come all the way out, leaving the bottom end of the link hanging free? If so, how did you do it? If not, does the link really have that much lateral movement capability? I wouldn't think it would.

Thanks,

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Old 11-04-2019, 04:44 PM   #5879
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Try wedging something between the bracket and the SB. Since I have never done this I can't tell you what would work. I have however worked on many things similar to this and a wedge will provide a lot of spreading forces and should get it to come out. You might have to do it on one side then move to the opposite side.



A good wedge, hammer and it would be out in a few minutes.
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Old 11-04-2019, 07:17 PM   #5880
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Remove the upper bolts holding it to the frame rail, and take out the entire assembly and pop it in a press to push the bolt head out of the bushing. While you're at it, do the same for the upper z-bracket because when you reassemble it, it will be very slightly out of alignment too.

You can either swap both assemblies left to right to get it a little closer, or pop both bolts out with a press. It was a pain to figure out what to do but with a press it didn't take much time at all, maybe 15-20 minutes.

There's also a thread on this specific issue: CHF frustration
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