Cheap Handling Fix

[Dunner]

Originally Posted by Floridafran

olddude64,


Thank you, thank you, thank you, for that list of tools and precise instructions. If I had the muscle power, I could do this myself using that information.

I'm printing your post to give to my husband. No excuses for him not getting this done before we head on for 5 weeks on September 5th. Although we haven't experienced with our Vista the handling problems you did with yours, it does sway more than I like on highly crowned roads, in sharper turns, etc. I'm guessing our extra 5' in length is the reason. I've driven it in all sorts of conditions and, while I've never felt white-knuckled, there were times last fall when the combination of strong gusting crosswinds and passing semis required a stronger grip and more steering on my part.

Thanks again to everyone. I hope to be posting back before too long with the news that we've joined the ranks of the cheap handling fix club.

The above is exactly what this fix cures.

[olddude64]

Have a safe journey.

[NeilV]

Originally Posted by Floridafran

olddude64,


Thank you, thank you, thank you, for that list of tools and precise instructions. If I had the muscle power, I could do this myself using that information.

You can buy muscle starting at about $50:

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"


Since I have an air compressor I use this one:

1/2" Professional Air Impact Wrench

Made short work of things when I had to replace the rear brake calipers and all the brake pads out on an abandoned air field in the boonies of Alabama. Imagine having to remove all six wheels and put them back on by hand using a lug wrench or a breaker bar.

I always carry a roofers pancake style air compressor (not an oiless one) in the basement. Got it from the reduced rack at the local Harbor Freight store for $39.

Work smart not hard. Smart is not meaning lazey but being modest with your resources so you can get more work done safely in less time.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Oh my God, a lug wrench & breaker bar,, lord, I have a 3/4 impact & crowbar to lift the tire & rim up off the studs to get them off & thats more than I want to deal with in a days time, MAN! I feel for you.
How long did it that to recoup after that ordeal.
Neil

[Dunner]

Anybody watching this thread make your own Trac Bar? I'm going by Oemy's web site, but I'm not sure of the bolt pattern for my rig's driver's side trac bar diff mount. The pattern shows 3 1/4, but I don't know if that is just a gustimate or an actual on center measurement.

http://www.oemys-performance.com/diytracbar.htm

I sent Oemy an email, but haven't heard back yet. I'm trying to make the diff plate and don't want to take the bolts out until I actually install the plate.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Dunner,
You think you'll have any trouble, making the trac bar top chassis mounting bracket, if you use the drivers side chassis rail to mount the bar.
All those wires & hoses up inside the chassis rail, looks like it will be a night mare trying to make a bracket to fit around them all, unless the 04 chassis you have is different from the 99 year like ours & those hoses & wires are in a different place.

That is the first time I seen the Oemys site, some good ideas.
Do they have the speed bleeders for the F53 chassis ??.
Neil

[Dunner]

You mean here? Those brake lines and the breather vent hose can be moved or tied out of the way. Those two holes above and to the right of the bump stop could also be used.



I'm going to mount my bar at the right side bump stop. Mine are grade 9.8 - 10mm(>7/16") bolts. I think that will hold it.



With the diff plate kinda like this MSPaint one here.



It's a couple inches longer by using the left side for a diff mount. The longer the bar is, the less chance of getting bump steer.

I think you can move the brake and breather tube without a problem. Here's a Henderson SS401 install video doing so.

SS401 Rear Trac Bar Installation video posted! | Henderson's Line-Up Blog

I'll post more pics after I get mine made later today. I may not get it installed as I have to go see my tooth vet this morning, and it will be another record breaker today. BTW, I'm using 1/2" bolts and rod ends. Total cost: Un-known. I had everything either up in the attic or in my spare metal pile.

[olddude64]

First, my hat is off to Mr. McKinley for sharing his "cheap handling fix" with everyone who knows how ill handling motorhomes are. I went over 3 mountain passes and some of the worst roads Washington State has to offer. I do believe that if I had a longer wheelbase motorhome that the fix would be better suited to it. My ride was a bit harsh but I also have rear airbags which are probably the culpert. I do believe that my coach corners like a Indy car now. It is sure nice not to have to keep a watchout for semi's comming up from behind me as I don't feel ANYTHING when they blowbuy me doing 65-70mph!!! The only thing with side wind you notice is the steering wheel will be a little off center to let you know there is a side wind! You sure can't feel it in the coach. Amazing! Thanks again.

[Dunner]

Good post. I just hope nobody finds a way to make it illegal or put a tax on it.

When John said he put 5,000 miles on his without ill effects, I went ahead and did mine before I even experienced the ill handling. When the service tech lost my sleeves and bushings, I did scare a few people on the 10 mile trip home.

"Sadie, why is there no one near me?"

[sergbutton]

Originally Posted by Dunner

You mean here? Those brake lines and the breather vent hose can be moved or tied out of the way. Those two holes above and to the right of the bump stop could also be used.



I'm going to mount my bar at the right side bump stop. Mine are grade 9.8 - 10mm(>7/16") bolts. I think that will hold it.



With the diff plate kinda like this MSPaint one here.



It's a couple inches longer by using the left side for a diff mount. The longer the bar is, the less chance of getting bump steer.

I think you can move the brake and breather tube without a problem. Here's a Henderson SS401 install video doing so.

SS401 Rear Trac Bar Installation video posted! | Henderson's Line-Up Blog

I'll post more pics after I get mine made later today. I may not get it installed as I have to go see my tooth vet this morning, and it will be another record breaker today. BTW, I'm using 1/2" bolts and rod ends. Total cost: Un-known. I had everything either up in the attic or in my spare metal pile.

I did the cheap fix and now I need to get off my backside and take the patterns I made to my local welder so that I can do my Track bar.

On my 2000 Itasca the passenger side (right side frame) is clear of all lines and cables.

[cb1000rider]

Interested in final results.. keep the pattern piece around.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Your chassis is a bit different from mine Dunner.
All those wire on the right side in your pic, are bunched all up inside the left rail on mine, I cant even get to the sway bar top link bolts, to remove them on the left side it is so much stuff bunched up together.

It looks like on yours, just a mater of pushing those wires up out of the way & mount the bracket to the holes.

According to all the pics on here of the mount on the rear end, man I went way over kill on the mount I made. The front sway bar brackets, rear sway bar brackets & then all the trac bar stuff, probably added 50 lbs to our coach.
Neil

[Dunner]

Got an MSPaint goin' right now. My eyes are slamming shut, but will post a drawing with my measurement after a Vico-nap.

[Dunner]

Yeah, but it won't even be noticeable on a coach.

You do come good work. Paint em black, throw some dust on em, and they would look like they came from the factory looking like that.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1344092384

I/we only wish the chassis mount was this easy.
Oemy's Web Site - DIY Trac Bar