Cheap Handling Fix

[Moonshine94]

OK, it took me four days, but I have read all 983 posts / 71 pages of this thread, and here's what I've gleaned;

• No one has reported that the CHF has made their handling worse.
• The vast majority have reported a substantial improvement in handling/stability/ease of driving. The single most common descriptor was "Wow!" A few owners have reported a slight, but not significant, improvement.
• Two owners have had the CHF performed by a Ford dealer, with no questions or hesitation by the dealers.
• No one has contacted FoMoCo directly and gotten anything in writing either blessing or condemning the fix.
• One poster said he was a Ford engineer with experience in chassis design and he didn't have any issues with the CHF.
• Mr. McKinley reports the most post fix mileage at 20k plus, several others at 5k plus.
• Several posters noted a popping noise, traced to loose link bolts. This was only reported by those using the Helwig adjustable end links, and was typically cured by torquing the end link bolts to the Ford spec of 66 ft lbs. No other issues noted by any poster.
• Without keeping an exact count it appears that somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 owners have performed the CHF.
• Dunner still hasn't posted pics of his attic.
• Installation is least painful with multiple applications of #7.

Have I missed anything?

[clyon51]

Originally Posted by Moonshine94

[*]Installation is least painful with multiple applications of #7.

Have I missed anything?

That's the only one I remember. I do think you missed something though. Read all again and we'll be waiting for your conclusion on Monday

[So Cal Roo]

Just ordered the Blue Ox 2400 TT for the rear. We have the 18000 GVWR chassis. This unit installs differently than others I've seen, not to the third member housing but to the sway bar brackets. The vendor at the Calif. RV show called the Blue Ox factory to ask if this was correct, he actually talked to the guy who designed the Tiger Trak. He said it was and that the unit that mounts to the 3rd member is for bigger chassis'. Anyone have one of these on their rig? Did I read in an earlier post that someone ordered poly sway bar bushings from Ford?

Best to all.

[Dunner]

Never heard of that type and it's too dark to go see how it would work.

I've read that you can only get the bushings from Ford if you buy the whole anti-sway bar. If you know the diameter of your bar, you can get them from ebay.

[TRELL]

I want to do this to mine. The front only for now 2001 Ford (think it's a F53). My Question what happens if were going down the road at 55mph and the thing brakes ?

[KSCRUDE]

Originally Posted by TRELL

I want to do this to mine. The front only for now 2001 Ford (think it's a F53). My Question what happens if were going down the road at 55mph and the thing brakes ?

Probably nothing you could tell. You can drive these without a sway bar or a trac bar.

[clyon51]

You will roll over in a huge firey crash.

Just kidding. Just going down the road there in no tension on the system at all, even on dips and bumps in the road. It's only when you get into uneven (side to side) situations, like coming out of your driveway, gas station, ect. Also when when taking curves and during high crosswinds (minimal stress). The F53 has millions/billions of miles on them. With 100+ people doing the fix, we must be approching 1 million.

If a link were to break (and would have to be defective), you would probably be taking a 35mph curve at 60 and you would be in the ditch anyway. Drive it like a MH and you will have no problems.

[rvjr]

Ok guys i bought a 1998 Winnabago about 3 months ago, I pull a 24ft enclosed car trailer the weighs about all together 5000lbs ok with the traier or not that thing rocks side to side going down the road and when a semi passes you boy you better be ready i hate driving it can i do the sway bar upgrade i looked at the sway bars front and rear and by the way i changed the rear sway bar rubber bushing they were wore out. i look at the front and it looks like if i change the to the inside holes that the rod wont be long enough by the way it is a Ford with the v-10 i think its the 53 series how can i find out i need help i hate driving this thing its only got 42,000 miles on it.

[Dunner]

I know it is a bit much to read 1000 posts, but if you read page 5, 10, 15, etc, you will see that some did and some didn't replace the links and the sky hasn't fallen. You'll love the fix.

New shocks may also help. They did for my friend with the Chevy chassis and no sway bars at all.

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by So Cal Roo

Just ordered the Blue Ox 2400 TT for the rear. We have the 18000 GVWR chassis. This unit installs differently than others I've seen, not to the third member housing but to the sway bar brackets. The vendor at the Calif. RV show called the Blue Ox factory to ask if this was correct, he actually talked to the guy who designed the Tiger Trak. He said it was and that the unit that mounts to the 3rd member is for bigger chassis'. Anyone have one of these on their rig? Did I read in an earlier post that someone ordered poly sway bar bushings from Ford?

Best to all.

Yeah, thats where my trac bar mounts. You have a Dana 80 rear axle.
You will get a spacer block to fit behind the other sway bar mount, to even things out.

[txrmj]

Remarkable info on this cheap fix issue. Just purchased a 2013 Thor ACE 29.2. F-53 Ford chassis, 16-k. I can't seem to find the reply in this thread that explains exactly how to do this. The front is an obvious change in mount holes from end holes to the others. The rear is a different story. Directing me to pics. would be great, but all the pics. that were on here are no longer available, at least on my computer. Thanks in advance to all involved with this info. Will make it much easier to get my Wife behind the wheel!!

[rvjr]

Yes i would like to see pics to of the front and rear upgrade.

[clyon51]

Originally Posted by txrmj

Remarkable info on this cheap fix issue. Just purchased a 2013 Thor ACE 29.2. F-53 Ford chassis, 16-k. I can't seem to find the reply in this thread that explains exactly how to do this. The front is an obvious change in mount holes from end holes to the others. The rear is a different story. Directing me to pics. would be great, but all the pics. that were on here are no longer available, at least on my computer. Thanks in advance to all involved with this info. Will make it much easier to get my Wife behind the wheel!!

The rear is the same procedure as the front. Just move link ends from front hole to rear hole.

Here is the front done:



Here is two of the rear, first done, second not done.

[Dunner]

The pic with the arrow is mine, showing where it hits with the jacks fully extended. Something that will never happen under normal driving and will not harm anything if it does.