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Old 05-03-2011, 04:08 AM   #99
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Just reread all of this again. Sounds interesting. I would like to confirm this clearance issue though. This is only for the small size F-53 and not the 06-later 22K F-53?

Other way round. It worked great on my 07 22k F-53 and several others were newer coaches. I think the only ones we heard from that did not work were the older lighter weight coaches.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:04 AM   #100
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Moving the front for sure works on a 2008 22K F-53 with no need to buy the longer links. I have not moved the rear bar, so don't know about that one. The front was a great improvement for me.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:51 AM   #101
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On my rears, the hole nearer to the axle is occupied by a bracket that goes from the drag link. Does this bracket just get flipped around?

EDIT: This won't work for me anyway. I have about 3" of spacers under my springs on the front axle. I don't know why but this rig was tilted down toward the front real bad. When I had the alignment done, we put in spacers to bring the front up and level the rig out. This created a longer distance for my links, so I guess I would need adjustable links to do this. When I switched the front and then jacked it up, my link ended up looking a lot different than the picture on page three.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:45 AM   #102
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Just reread all of this again. Sounds interesting. I would like to confirm this clearance issue though. This is only for the small size F-53 and not the 06-later 22K F-53?
I had some clearance issues with the rear sway bar at, or near, full suspension travel. The bar would swing foward and upward and hit the diff housing where the bar drops down and around the carrier housing (center part of axle). I had to lengthen the links a little. My chassis is a 2000 F53 with a 20500lbs GVW.
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Old 05-04-2011, 07:05 AM   #103
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I have a 1996 Tropical 236 with a Ford 460 and I'm assuming an F53 chassis and the front sway bar doesn't have two holes, just the one at the end. What am I missing?

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Old 05-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #104
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Same way on my 97 F53 chassis. We're out of luck.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:57 PM   #105
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thanks for answering. at least now I know
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:21 PM   #106
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I have a 2007 22,000 pound Ford Chassis and just did the stabilizer link modification on the front using the stock links. I notice on mine when I raise the front on the jacks the stabilizer bar hits the bottom of the spring on the drivers side just before the tire clears the ground. Have any others found this on theirs?? Using the Hellwig 7962 adjustable links I'm sure this can be avoided.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:49 PM   #107
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Update to post if anyone is following this thread

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I have a 2007 22,000 pound Ford Chassis and just did the stabilizer link modification on the front using the stock links. I notice on mine when I raise the front on the jacks the stabilizer bar hits the bottom of the spring on the drivers side just before the tire clears the ground. Have any others found this on theirs?? Using the Hellwig 7962 adjustable links I'm sure this can be avoided.
I took the motorhome for it's first drive today after doing the stabilizer mod a few days ago. The cornering and side to side roll is much improved. So far I have only done the front.
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:25 AM   #108
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What's the best way to align the hole on the sway bar link to the 2nd hole on the sway bar? Front leveling jacks down first, then floor jack to lift the axel?
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:15 AM   #109
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What's the best way to align the hole on the sway bar link to the 2nd hole on the sway bar? Front leveling jacks down first, then floor jack to lift the axel?
For the front I did mine parked on level ground with no jacks down. There is very slight tension if any on the stabilizer bar. I removed the nuts on the link bolts at the stabilizer bar, then use a bottle jack under the end of the stabilizer bar to raise the end just enough to easily remove the bolts. Once the bolts are out you can position the stabilizer bar by hand to bolt the link to the stabilizer bar. You can then use the bottle jack again to align the other hole to install that bolt.
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Old 06-05-2011, 12:00 PM   #110
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I have an unlevel driveway. I raised the front as far as it would go and used bottle jacks and 6 ton jack stands. The front axle was too much for my floor jack. I used the floor jack and a hammer with a block of wood to fine-tune the position of the sway bar so I could easily re-insert the bolts. Here's a picture as I was finishing up:

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Old 06-06-2011, 05:35 PM   #111
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Thanks Zippo and Luv2go.

I did the change today (front sway only) and then went out for a test drive on the freeway; today also happened to be a windy day. Wow! I'm very impressed at what such an easy and small change can do. The sway that I previously felt on the front of the RV is now gone; everything feels so hunkered down. A couple times I was going over 70 mph and had to slow down.

This sway bar change, in addition to my Koni FSDs, rear Ultratrac, and Safe-T-Plus, has really addressed all the problems that I was experiencing with my coach.

I am very happy that I came across this particular forum thread and for the OP to share this little piece of gold with us. I'm looking forward to a more thorough test this coming weekend when I'm off to a local campground. If it's anything like my original test, I'm going to be a very happy camper!!!

Cheers to all!!!

-Tom
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:23 PM   #112
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John, just made the trip from Texas to North Idaho with the mod. I cannot thank you enough. gps
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