Community Forums

jmckinley · 01-13-2013, 05:38 PM

Gotago,

Oh yee of little faith!

Now don't you feel bad about doubting me?

John McKinley
Genius Inventor of Cheap Handling Fix

Gotago2 · 01-13-2013, 05:49 PM

Yes My Lord John. I bow to you.

jmckinley · 01-13-2013, 06:36 PM

That's the spirit Norm.

Now go forth and spread the word.

Dunner · 01-14-2013, 03:05 AM

First off, quit giving Dunner any credit; he just acts like he know what he is doing. Actually, I (Dunner) just happen to have more time on my hands than John McKinley and being a life-long gear-head, found the "CHF" incredibly easy to do. It involves changing the mounting position of the links that connect the anti-sway (sway) bar to the chassis. There are B/A pictures at post #1092 and a compilation of many at CHF Pictures and throughout this thread.

To recap for anyone new to the CHF, and not wanting to go through all the posts, I bought my 2004 MH at the end of May in 2012, drove it 10 miles home and didn't know to pay attention to the sway. I read the CHF, and with all the positive responses, went out and did it. It wasn't until Oct of `12 that I experienced the difference. Actually, not having driven it for more than 10 miles, I didn't know the difference. I later experienced the sway when driving home from the dealer after some warranty work and the un-tech lost my link bushings. You wouldn't have wanted to be around me when I tested the sway.

Anywho, there are variations of the F53 anti-sway bar setup, but basically it's nothing more than a bar that resists twisting as the chassis leans from side to side. Up/down damping is controlled by the shocks. New shocks help, but cost a bit more.
As far as replacing the sway bar links, that's a matter of choice. I made some that were 1 1/2"s longer out of spare parts I had laying around the house. You can buy and modify longer ones from Helwig. I'm too lazy to look up the link, but I'm sure someone else will come along or just Google Helwig Links.

jmckinley came up with the idea, it worked and hopefully no one will come up with a way to tax it or make it illegal (insert smilie of choice). There are a lot of people who have experience with the CHF in this thread, so ask away and also take a look at the poll I created. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...ll-130709.html Some have had the "CHF" done at Ford dealers for about $100.

If I had taken all the right tools under my MH the first time, I could have done each one in less than 15 minutes. Air tools make it go faster as the bolts-nuts have an interference fit and don't just spin off/on.

Tools needed:
Beer
18mm socket or box end wrench.
15mm socket of box end wrench.
Bottle or some other type of jack.
Torque wrench set to 66lbs

If you have any kind of mechanical experience, your beer won't get warm doing this fix. Some have reported a popping noise after the CHF, but found that the links weren't tightened properly. Eat your Wheaties and try again.

I have calibrated forearms and didn't use a torque wrench. Just put my feet up on the axles and pulled.

wackymac · 01-14-2013, 04:30 AM

As I said in an earlier post, I did the CHF and added a front Davis Tru-Track bar. I've put about 1400 miles on the MH as we are now in beautiful downtown Boerne, TX. The handling has improved as trucks don't blow the MH around as much when they pass and it really does improve the cornering. The cross wind still affects it, realizing it is a 310 sqft sail traveling down the road. I'm also running a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer on the front. I read somewhere in the forum about removing it. Should I? I put it on to help prevent the dreaded "DEATH WOBBLE" and to help stabilize the MH in case of a blowout.

C-Leigh Racing · 01-14-2013, 08:09 AM

John,
Man your CHF thread is moving, 1195 post & moving way faster than the over 900 post on a "Champion Chinese generator" thread over on rv.net.

At least the CHF thread is all American & not supporting another country.
Thanks, Neil

Hudsoner · 01-16-2013, 08:33 PM

I am just back from a trip to Florida (about 3500 miles round trip). I did the CHF and installed a rear track bar just prior to the trip.

The motorhome is way less sensitive to trucks passing by (some trucks I can't even feel passing, some others are still trying to push me of the road). I would say that the time investment for the CFH paid off in beter driving quality, and hope the money spend in the track bar was also well invested.

awwall · 01-19-2013, 02:03 PM

See this post over in the ForestRiver forum. Looks like Ford has blessed the CHF.

Ford Chassis Questions - Forest River Forums

Dunner · 01-19-2013, 04:17 PM

"Just FYI - I talked to an Engineer from the Ford Motorhome Division this morning about the F53 chassis. Here's some of the things he told me:
1. The suspension mod of moving the attachment points on the front and rear sway bars is recommended by Ford, but it will offer a more firm ride while adding some increased stability. The sway bars are designed to handle either hole location. Ford installs on the outer holes purely for ride comfort. Modifying to the inner holes will not impact the chassis warranty."

I don't quit agree with that statement. The vertical firmness is controlled by the shocks, not the sway bar. If you are going straight down the road, the sway bar bushings provide little resistance to up/down movement. Without Myth-Buster type of testing, it's hard to say what, it any, increased/decreased firmness the position of the sway bars mounting holes provide.

jmckinley · 01-20-2013, 07:53 AM

While a stiffer anti sway bar will not affect stiffness when both wheels hit a bump (like a concrete crack or frost heave), a one wheel bump will feel slightly stiffer since then the bar has to twist so it adds a little spring rate.

superiman · 01-20-2013, 08:59 AM

Hello, after getting our first HM in Sept. (35ft Allegro) I stumbled upon this thread. It did feel like work to drive the HM most of the time but being new to this I just thought that was the way it was. I went to make the change and the front went smoothly just crawled around on the ground and did not take very long. Used Loctite and torque wrench.
When I went to the rear I noticed that the bolt on the bracket was missing and the bushing was pretty chewed up. Went to the Ford dealer to get a bracket and bolt but they did not have a bolt and could not seem to figure out how to get one. They did get me something that would work.
So after doing the front and only fixing the bracket in the back the difference is AMAZING. The DW is much happier. We have since put about 3k miles on it and now don't have that white knuckle feeling.

Many thanks guys.

mikf · 01-20-2013, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmckinley

While a stiffer anti sway bar will not affect stiffness when both wheels hit a bump (like a concrete crack or frost heave), a one wheel bump will feel slightly stiffer since then the bar has to twist so it adds a little spring rate.

John, we went down I-71 last week on our way to Fl. for our first trip since doing the Mod. when I saw the sign for Waynesville, I saluted you. it is closer for us to go down I-77, but easier driving on I-75, but since doing your mod I think I will try 77 again. thankyou

Huck.hickson · 01-21-2013, 06:14 AM

Hope I am not breaking some unspoken rule, but I copied this from another forum.

Thread Tools Display Modes
01-11-2013, 12:28 PM #1
MGOBlue
Junior Member

Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 19
Ford Chassis Questions
Just FYI - I talked to an Engineer from the Ford Motorhome Division this morning about the F53 chassis. Here's some of the things he told me:
1. The suspension mod of moving the attachment points on the front and rear sway bars is recommended by Ford, but it will offer a more firm ride while adding some increased stability. The sway bars are designed to handle either hole location. Ford installs on the outer holes purely for ride comfort. Modifying to the inner holes will not impact the chassis warranty.
2. Ford Motorhome division phone # is: 800-444-3311
3. Ford recommends to all MH manufacturers to have 40% (front) and 60% (rear) on the UVW ratio. He told me that many consumers are getting their coaches weighed to find that the front axle is only getting 30% or less of the total UVW. To correct this some manufacturers are offering to install air bag helpers to level out the load. He suggest that if the MH manufacturers aren't going to do it, than the owners should if the ratio is not close. 40% on the front axle will help with tracking and stability.

Hope some may find this info useful.

Thanks MGOBlue. Something more to worry about after the weigh in. 8-(.

Huck

dabrooks · 01-21-2013, 10:21 AM

I have following this thread since I joined the forum back in September. I was not really unhappy with the way our motorhome was handling but there is never anything wrong with making improvements. We are taking s trip later this month so I got up this morning and decided to do "the fix". It took about one hour but I did run into something that I have a question about. Everything bolted back up with no problem on the rear. On the front the z brackets won't go back on. They hit the link. I put the bolt through the link and into the sway bar but left the z bracket off. I can grind some of the z bracket away and then it probably would not hit. I would probably be grinding away about 3/8 of an inch in one spot. How important are the z brackets? I noticed in some of the pictures some chassis did not have them. Any advice?