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Old 03-16-2013, 05:10 PM   #1331
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Well I just couldn't do it. The angle looks too steep on my coach, at least with the stock links. It appears that if the stock link would even reach the inside hole it would be in a straight line. What do you all think of the layout? This picture is with jacks up and all the coach's weight on the axles.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:19 PM   #1332
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That's the way mine looked before I swapped holes. Go ahead and swap them. It should be fine. The rears don't look as bad. Waste of time and money to change links. They will perform flawlessly, mine have for 5000 miles. The bar will even touch the spring if you jack the front tires off the ground. This never happens in normal driving. Unless of course you are trying to jump motorcycles with your bus!
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:58 PM   #1333
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Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
This never happens in normal driving. Unless of course you are trying to jump motorcycles with your bus!
Where did that come from.



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Old 03-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #1334
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Dune,
Its amazing this thread has gone this many pages.
Just think, if it could get around 300 more, we could just about catch up with the Chinese generator thread over on RV.Com.
Neil
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:30 AM   #1335
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It will. Just look at all the newbies every day. Just needs to be 'bumped to the top' every day.



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Old 03-17-2013, 06:06 PM   #1336
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Well I have went over to the dark side. I did the CHF on my 1999 f53. Good thing I did the bushings on the rear sway bar was completuly gone. Look like they had melted. Guess I will have a little talk with the man that services my MH. He should have seen it. It stood out like a sore thumb.

rfregg, your sway bars looks like mine. You will not have any trouble changing them. I thought the same thing that you did the first time I looked at mine.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #1337
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rfregg, if the angle makes you uncomfortable, get a set of Hellwigs, I used them on the front just to keep the same angle. I will be installing the same at the rear in a few weeks.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:30 PM   #1338
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rfregg, if the angle makes you uncomfortable, get a set of Hellwigs, I used them on the front just to keep the same angle. I will be installing the same at the rear in a few weeks.
Yea I just don't feel good about it so Hellwigs it is for me. I have looked at every page of this subject and there really are differences in each setup when you look at them. Probably being too conservative but it just seems that I should retain an angle between the two parts that is close to stock. Of course if any of the True Believers live in Northern California (Stockton area for me), I would love to see their setups and let them convince me!
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:32 AM   #1339
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Yea I just don't feel good about it so Hellwigs it is for me. I have looked at every page of this subject and there really are differences in each setup when you look at them. Probably being too conservative but it just seems that I should retain an angle between the two parts that is close to stock. Of course if any of the True Believers live in Northern California (Stockton area for me), I would love to see their setups and let them convince me!

Well... I agree but my suggestions have mostly fallen on deaf ears.

The action of the antisway bar is to resist twisting as one side or the other of the coach leans, (thus reduce sway). However, the bar also moves up and down with little resistance when, for instance, you drive over a speed bump. If both sides of the coach move up or down at the same time, the bar simply rides along, and does not resist in any way. This is the bit that has me concerned when you dramatically change the angle of the link attachment.

When you remove the angle (link to bar) and make the connection more of a straight line the up down force of the coach is transmitted directly and straight into the bracket and bushing holding the bar to the axle. That's not where you want the energy going...at least that's my opinion.

Some here have had to replace bushings that were damaged or destroyed; frankly I wonder if it was the change in direction of the energy that caused the bushing to wear out. The bushings are really only intended to manage the bar spinning within the bracket, not the force of the coach weight bearing down on the bushing and bracket.

I know others will disagree with my hypothesis; and some no doubt have thousands of miles on the setup with the bar pointing up and yet no issue with brackets or bushings and that's great, Iím happy for them.

I thought maintaining the angle was important and so when I made the CHF I changed out the links for longer connectors and retained the original angle as best I could. Feeling this was appropriate, I moved on without concerns. By the way, the CHF works well and I recommend it.



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Old 03-19-2013, 10:36 AM   #1340
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My 2 cents is that the sway bars not only move up and down but also twist. If one side of the MH goes up and the other side goes down then the sway bar has to twist. Over a period of time the sway bar will get week and by shortening it will help put more pressure on it.
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:40 AM   #1341
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I put 1200 miles on the rig last weekend, Florida Panhandle to Bristol, Tn and back. It was the first outing with the CHF and all I can say is, making the change is tied for the best thing I've done to the rig. I also did the 5 Star Tune, and I'm equally glad I did both.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #1342
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My 2 cents is that the sway bars not only move up and down but also twist. If one side of the MH goes up and the other side goes down then the sway bar has to twist. Over a period of time the sway bar will get week and by shortening it will help put more pressure on it.
Yes, you are correct & when it does, that sway bar REALLY goes to work trying to fight that twist.

A coil axle spring will weaken over time, but they are under constant pressure supporting a load, (unless the leveling jacks are down) where as the sway bar will be free most of its life, so the weakening process will take longer on the sway bar, probably lot longer than we'll own the same coach.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:29 PM   #1343
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Yes, you are correct & when it does, that sway bar REALLY goes to work trying to fight that twist.

A coil axle spring will weaken over time, but they are under constant pressure supporting a load, (unless the leveling jacks are down) where as the sway bar will be free most of its life, so the weakening process will take longer on the sway bar, probably lot longer than we'll own the same coach.
Neil
I agree, the sway bar on these MHs should last a long time. We use sway bars on open wheel modified race cars and they see much more torsional torque than these will ever see and if the bar is not damaged will last for years.
I did the upgrade months ago and as others have stated , I noticed a noticeable change in handling. I attribute this to quicker response of the sway bar when set in the second hole.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:18 AM   #1344
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I had my coach (2000 Coachmen Mirada 340mbs) in for brake service yesterday and my shop (Akron Wheel and Frame) was kind enough to do the Cheap Handling Fix on my coach for a bit more than $50. One thing we noticed on my unit was a similar bracket on the front and rear sway bars. The rear could be flipped around which is what I have seen others do, but the front one could not be as it would hit the link. We ended up leaving it off. Jim thought the bracket added strength to the sway bar and was leery of leaving it off, but I showed him the pictures in this thread where there is no bracket on the front so he left it off. I have a 1500 mile trip coming up this weekend so I guess I'll know pretty soon if this fix is as good as everyone says it is. I can attest that the 5 Star Tune everyone talks about is a real winner, so I am sure this will be awesome as well. Thanks to those who discovered and shared this tip!!!
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