Cheap Handling Fix

[Dunner]

As far as that bracket providing an "shear" strength, it does virtually nothing. I would have to in the same direction of the shear force to do any good.

[marcusf]

Originally Posted by rfregg

Yea I just don't feel good about it so Hellwigs it is for me. I have looked at every page of this subject and there really are differences in each setup when you look at them. Probably being too conservative but it just seems that I should retain an angle between the two parts that is close to stock. Of course if any of the True Believers live in Northern California (Stockton area for me), I would love to see their setups and let them convince me!

I did the CHF about 4000 miles ago and it made a big difference. Have had no problems and been on some pretty bad roads up and down the CA and OR coast. We are in the Monterey Bay area and cross the state every Fall to stay at Yosemite Lakes. The RV is 9 years old, so I am replacing the shocks this Spring.

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by Roll

Well... I agree but my suggestions have mostly fallen on deaf ears.

The action of the antisway bar is to resist twisting as one side or the other of the coach leans, (thus reduce sway). However, the bar also moves up and down with little resistance when, for instance, you drive over a speed bump. If both sides of the coach move up or down at the same time, the bar simply rides along, and does not resist in any way. This is the bit that has me concerned when you dramatically change the angle of the link attachment.

When you remove the angle (link to bar) and make the connection more of a straight line the up down force of the coach is transmitted directly and straight into the bracket and bushing holding the bar to the axle. That's not where you want the energy going...at least that's my opinion.

Some here have had to replace bushings that were damaged or destroyed; frankly I wonder if it was the change in direction of the energy that caused the bushing to wear out. The bushings are really only intended to manage the bar spinning within the bracket, not the force of the coach weight bearing down on the bushing and bracket.

I know others will disagree with my hypothesis; and some no doubt have thousands of miles on the setup with the bar pointing up and yet no issue with brackets or bushings and that's great, I’m happy for them.

I thought maintaining the angle was important and so when I made the CHF I changed out the links for longer connectors and retained the original angle as best I could. Feeling this was appropriate, I moved on without concerns. By the way, the CHF works well and I recommend it.



Roll

I agree 100% with this, which is why I wont modify the front untill I get the adjustable links .

[ezridermd]

We have a 2013 Tiffin 31SA and thanks to a discussion this morning with "ruebenray" I am going to try the fix once this "spring" weather turns to summer in Maryland. Does anybody have recent photos of the fix on a new (2013) F53 chassis? Just want to make sure I do it right.

[cc8375]

Originally Posted by ezridermd

We have a 2013 Tiffin 31SA and thanks to a discussion this morning with "ruebenray" I am going to try the fix once this "spring" weather turns to summer in Maryland. Does anybody have recent photos of the fix on a new (2013) F53 chassis? Just want to make sure I do it right.

Only did the front on my 2013. Looks the sames as all the other pics on this thread. Let me know if you still need pics. Happy with results. I have not decided on whether to do the rear yet.

index.html

GREAT JOB to all Contributors!

[navychaps]

Originally Posted by Roll

Well... I agree but my suggestions have mostly fallen on deaf ears.

The action of the antisway bar is to resist twisting as one side or the other of the coach leans, (thus reduce sway). However, the bar also moves up and down with little resistance when, for instance, you drive over a speed bump. If both sides of the coach move up or down at the same time, the bar simply rides along, and does not resist in any way. This is the bit that has me concerned when you dramatically change the angle of the link attachment.

When you remove the angle (link to bar) and make the connection more of a straight line the up down force of the coach is transmitted directly and straight into the bracket and bushing holding the bar to the axle. That's not where you want the energy going...at least that's my opinion.

Some here have had to replace bushings that were damaged or destroyed; frankly I wonder if it was the change in direction of the energy that caused the bushing to wear out. The bushings are really only intended to manage the bar spinning within the bracket, not the force of the coach weight bearing down on the bushing and bracket.

I know others will disagree with my hypothesis; and some no doubt have thousands of miles on the setup with the bar pointing up and yet no issue with brackets or bushings and that's great, I’m happy for them.

I thought maintaining the angle was important and so when I made the CHF I changed out the links for longer connectors and retained the original angle as best I could. Feeling this was appropriate, I moved on without concerns. By the way, the CHF works well and I recommend it.



Roll

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

I agree 100% with this, which is why I wont modify the front untill I get the adjustable links .

My Bushings were trashed prior to my doing the "Fix." I did use Helwig links to keep the geometry mainly due to my OCD vice any real issues I was having. Many have done the fix both ways and have had much success. My advice is do the fix the way you feel most comfortable. I have well over 5000 miles on the fix and will NEVER go back!

[96 Wideglide]

If you look at the sway bar setup on most vehicles, it's usually very close to a 45* angle between the bar and end links.

[chboone]

The bushing were not destroyed be the modification. When the modification was being done the bushings were inspected and found to be bad at that time.

[96 Wideglide]

Yeah, you probably want to get the new aftermarket bushings. Should hold up longer than the factory rubber bushings.

[NAUTIQUE]

Wow - Haven't been on this forum for a long time & happened across this thread yesterday! Had to run out in the cold rain last night and look under the MH.

I've got a 2000 GBM Landau (99 16000 Chasis) and have fought the handling for years. Already have added Steer-Safe & Brazil's Ultra-Trac for a much improved ride. Do you think this mod would improve ride even more?

Have only skimmed the 97 pages, but from what I'm understanding you don't have to jack it up, just un-bolt the sway bar and then use jack to raise bar and reposition holes?

The only thing that looked tricky was that the bolt head appeared to be in line with the leaf spring - Is this a prob getting them out?

[macnkat]

Originally Posted by NAUTIQUE

Wow - Haven't been on this forum for a long time & happened across this thread yesterday! Had to run out in the cold rain last night and look under the MH.

I've got a 2000 GBM Landau (99 16000 Chasis) and have fought the handling for years. Already have added Steer-Safe & Brazil's Ultra-Trac for a much improved ride. Do you think this mod would improve ride even more?

Have only skimmed the 97 pages, but from what I'm understanding you don't have to jack it up, just un-bolt the sway bar and then use jack to raise bar and reposition holes?

The only thing that looked tricky was that the bolt head appeared to be in line with the leaf spring - Is this a prob getting them out?

I already had the Steer-Safe too...and the difference is DRAMATIC!

[sparks1032]

Ditto DRAMATIC it made me wish for such an easy way to fix the truck ride like quad shocks!

[whem2fish]

If on level ground no jack needed when I did kent's back was a breeze front we f had to use jacks it wasn't level be sure to look at the bushings

[chboone]

NAUTIQUE, The bolts on the sway bar on my Mh were also in line with the leaf spring, I had to remove the upper link bolts to remove the sway bar bolts.

Chuck