crooked steering wheel?

[JimM68]

I have the ole "crooked steering wheel" syndrome. driving down the road an eigth turn to the left all the time.

I know I just have to pull the wheel and turn it one spline and put it back on, but I can't get the darned thing off.

The wheel base is just a hunk of pot metal. Unlike the Chevy's I'm used to working on, it doesn't have threaded holes for a real puller, it has cast in flat spots to hook a 2 jaw puller. I've pulled on it to the point where one of the flat spots is breaking off. I've used penetrating oil. I've rattled the puller with an air hammer.

The only thing I haven't tried is heat, just doesn't look like a good place for a torch...

Any tips or suggestions on getting this darned thing off?

[TandW]

One wonders why if your expertise was with Chevy, you chose to live in a Ford!!

[Rick Long]

There is a TSB for that... Go here, pay the $10.95... make sure your printer has lots of ink & paper. I used almost a ream of paper printing TSB's and Shop Manual pages.
Helm Incorporated: Ford & Lincoln/Mercury Online Service Information

[John Mo]

Have you had your alignment checked?

[Chuck 1935]

It's not the steering wheel thats off, it's the front end adjustment and has to be done from below. Depending on the front end, it's the drag link or the tie rods that need to be adjusted. DO NOT TAKE THE STEERING WHEEL OFF !!!!!

[John Mo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck 1935 It's not the steering wheel thats off, it's the front end adjustment and has to be done from below. Depending on the front end, it's the drag link or the tie rods that need to be adjusted. DO NOT TAKE THE STEERING WHEEL OFF !!!!!

And maybe more than the tie rods or drag link. On something that's been on the road a while (the unit in the OP is a '99 model) it may well be a worn part, but mine had a bad pull to one side new from the factory. It turned out to be in need of a caster adjustment.

Get your alignment checked first.

[Hikerdogs]

As others have mentioned it's a good idea to check the tire wear and possibly have the front end aligned before adjusting the steering wheel position. Once you are sure the front end is properly aligned you may still have to reposition the steering wheel.

Unlike Workhorse and other chassis with 2 adjustable tie rod ends Ford has only a single adjustment for toe in. On the F53 chassis it is quite likely the steering wheel will need to be recentered after an alignment. There is no master spline on the column so moving it (once it's loose) shouldn't be a problem. Ford has issued

QVM Bulletin No. Q-59

F53 MOTOR HOME CHASSIS CLEAR VISION AND ALIGNMENT POLICY CHANGE
issued Sept. 18 1998 that gives the proper alignmnet specs and details how to remove and recenter the steering wheel once the alignment is complete. The bulletin also details the type of puller to be used for removing the steering wheel.

This and other Ford bulletins are available free of charge online at the Ford Body Builder Advisory Service.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/qvmp.html

[Chuck 1935]

OOOppps, Just learned something new. Excuuusssse Meee !
Never to old to learn.

[JimM68]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs As others have mentioned it's a good idea to check the tire wear and possibly have the front end aligned before adjusting the steering wheel position. Once you are sure the front end is properly aligned you may still have to reposition the steering wheel. Unlike Workhorse and other chassis with 2 adjustable tie rod ends Ford has only a single adjustment for toe in. On the F53 chassis it is quite likely the steering wheel will need to be recentered after an alignment. There is no master spline on the column so moving it (once it's loose) shouldn't be a problem. Ford has issued QVM Bulletin No. Q-59 F53 MOTOR HOME CHASSIS CLEAR VISION AND ALIGNMENT POLICY CHANGE issued Sept. 18 1998 that gives the proper alignmnet specs and details how to remove and recenter the steering wheel once the alignment is complete. The bulletin also details the type of puller to be used for removing the steering wheel. This and other Ford bulletins are available free of charge online at the Ford Body Builder Advisory Service. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/qvmp.html

Thanks guys, and yes, Hikerdogs is right on.
I have read all those TSB's. I've gotten an alignment.
I know I need to turn my wheel one spline on the steering shaft to get it pointed in the right direction.

My question just relates to any cool tricks you may have to get off something that is stuck?

I know if I lay a propane torch on it for a minute, it will pop right off, but there's a bunch of wiring, and slip rings and contacts and plastic and all sorts of stuff that heat probably isn't good for. Maybe if I'm "REAL" Careful? Or I go buy one of those baby torches that just make the tinyest pinpoint of flame?

[subford]

Deleted Deleted

[Hikerdogs]

I wouldn't go near the steering wheel with any type of torch of any size. At the very most you might try a hair dryer or heat gun. The torch could do far more harm than good.

It might sound strange but I was able to loosen the steering wheel on our F53 chassis by removing the nut then hitting up on the bottom side of it with an open palm. It took a couple hits on either side and then just popped off.

Another thing you might try is to put the nut back on the shaft until it's flush with the threads. Then wrap your left arm around the underside of the wheel and pull up while hitting the nut a couple times with a plastic or dead blow hammer. I'm surprised your wheel is so tight. The splines are relatively coarse and generally don't take much effort to loosen.

[garym114]

I used a loan puller from one of the auto places and dry ice. I thought it was all going to break before the wheel poped up, but it finally did. Not much room to put the dry ice. I used an ice crusher to get small chunkks. I would put tension on with the puller and add the dry ice to try to get the splines cold. Wait, more ice, more tension, rubber mallet, more ice ect.

[desertdust]

I have an 07 winnebago and the steering being off was driving me nuts. I took it to a local truck repair shop and he removed it and repositioned it one spline. This in my opinion is a good job for the professional.

[JimM68]

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertdust This in my opinion is a good job for the professional.

One bolt? You'd call a pro for one bolt?
Sorry... I rebuild my own engines, I do not go to shops for one bolt.

The dry ice idea is "cool" where does one get some, they don't have it at the local grocer?