Cruise Control

[Fossilhog]

I've read all the posts on cruise controls I can find here but here's a new one, in my case anyhow. On my 2002 Winnebago Adventurer, Ford F-53 Chassis. After a few hours of driving, if I switch off the CC by either the steering wheel switch, or the brake pedal, I can't get it to turn back on again for at least 15 minutes to a half hour. I understand the concept of the CC shutting off when you hit a bump becasue of the proximity of the switch to the brake pedal but this isn't the case. Anyone else experience this?

[Fossilhog]

I've read all the posts on cruise controls I can find here but here's a new one, in my case anyhow. On my 2002 Winnebago Adventurer, Ford F-53 Chassis. After a few hours of driving, if I switch off the CC by either the steering wheel switch, or the brake pedal, I can't get it to turn back on again for at least 15 minutes to a half hour. I understand the concept of the CC shutting off when you hit a bump becasue of the proximity of the switch to the brake pedal but this isn't the case. Anyone else experience this?

[ISLAPP]

I havent heard of that one. Hopefully, others will post a suggestion here for ya. Are you still under the 3 yr/36000 mile warranty?
Mike

[Fossilhog]

My 3 yr warrty is over but I have the extended warranty. This tiime of year I lothe bringing it to a dealer when I can be using it. Also, I think its one of those problems that can't be diagnosed unless duplicated. I'm going to try to attack some connections, maybe something loose.

["007"]

Tim, check your grounds or fuse, clean fuse blades, running lights have been known to cause problems also, poor or corroded lamp sockets. Your brake switch near your brake pedel lever. "007"

[Fossilhog]

Good Idea about the fuses, and I'll do the light bulb check also. So much junk near the brake pedal its hard to see what's what! Now I'm curious, what would a faulty light have to do with this especially if the lights weren't turned on, like marker lights or running lights?

Anhow, I fiddled with it on and off today and checked and cleaned all the fuses and lastly, I pulled off the tailight lenses and one of the brake light bulbs had enough green on it to grow penecillin! I cleaned that and without a test drive, I'm hoping thats it.

[Jim Martin PA]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fossilhog:
Good Idea about the fuses, and I'll do the light bulb check also. So much junk near the brake pedal its hard to see what's what! Now I'm curious, what would a faulty light have to do with this especially if the lights weren't turned on, like marker lights or running lights?

Anhow, I fiddled with it on and off today and checked and cleaned all the fuses and lastly, I pulled off the tailight lenses and one of the brake light bulbs had enough green on it to grow penecillin! I cleaned that and without a test drive, I'm hoping thats it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Fossilhog,

Dirty electrical contacts create an IR Drop due to the increased resistance.

Laymen's terms the voltage drops due to increased resistance caused by the dirt contacts or connections. This can have an effect on virtually any DC circuit since the common point on a DC circuit is ground.

Hope this explanation shines a little light your question.

Jim

[Fossilhog]

Yes the explanation is good. I was just questioning (in my mind) if something thats not in the same circuit would have an affect. Its been over 40 years since I was an Engineer Mechanic at a pershing Missle site....LOL. Electric theory came a lot faster to me back then!

Thanks!

[Fossilhog]

Ok, the last trip..cruise control functions OK for about 2 hours, then shuts down for no reason. Also at this time, if you try to accelerate using the thumb control on the steering wheel, the CC shuts down. So....now that summer's here I'll wait till fall to get tot the dealer.

[SRT]

Just a thought.

It almost sounds like the CC vacuum thingee is loosing vacuum. There was bulletin out about the CC shutting off going up a long grade due to loss of vacuum. Ford installed a bigger vacuum tank for a fix.

[Retired and Happy]

I had a similar problem a couple of MH's ago. I always assumed something in the controlling circuitry was heating up. While it was engaged, it would stay engaged, but when it dropped out like when slowing down on a hill, it was too hot for a while to kick in again.

[Fossilhog]

OK the latest, I just completed a 300 mile round trip with no problems with the CC. The difference? I didn't tow my 6x12 enclosed trailer with electric brakes.....sounds like I may have the culprit. I know all about the control cutting out on long hills, that's not the problem. I think more along the line of a few suggestions ago about loose or dirty connections causing some high resistance. So....I won't be going out again for 2 weeks but the trailer will be in tow, and probably to the mountains of Pennsylvania.

["007"]

Now that you know the difference without the trailer the same applies for trailer loose wires ,poor lite sockets or loose wiring connections in plugs to both coach and trailer.
Just need to check it out and your trouble free. "007"