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05-04-2018, 04:50 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Do It Yourself Rotor Change
Anyone done this job yourself on the F-53? Any words of wisdom to share?
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05-04-2018, 05:56 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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I guess by "Rotor Change", you mean brake rotors? Front or back axle? It's not much different than doing it on any vehicle with disc brakes, the F53 parts are just larger and heavier than most. There are many resources available online, including YouTube videos. Make sure you have the jacks, axle stands, and tools needed to do the job.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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05-04-2018, 06:08 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Yes, brake rotors. I would pay someone to do it if I could find a shop that would follow the torque specs in the Ford manual.
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05-04-2018, 07:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate
Anyone done this job yourself on the F-53? Any words of wisdom to share?
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Fronts are mostly like any front rotors. IE remove caliper, remove outer wheel bearing, slide rotor off, unbolt rotor, clean and repack the wheel bearings. Reassemble.
Rears are a little more difficult. IE remove caliper, remove axle, remove wheel bearing nut(s), remove hub, unbolt rotor, clean out the rust from the hub and inner wheel bearing. Reassemble.
Richard
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05-04-2018, 11:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 233
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Plan for the whole afternoon, maybe a bit more. These parts are heavy! Have someone there to help lift. Have new front wheel seals as you will be repacking the bearings as the hubs need to come off. Have a GOOD impact wrench. A breaker bar will be needed for the caliper mount bolts, mine were done up with red loctite. Get the procedure for torquing the front wheel hubs.
For the rear, find the torque value for the rear axle nut hubs. Mine were a self locking type of nut, reusable. The gaskets on the axle shafts use sealant so have some handy, I used loctite black gasket maker. The axles will hold about a half pint of fluid on each side so remember to top up the rear diff when you are done. This would be the perfect time to change out the brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners with fresh. Filling up the front reservoir is a PITA as it is tight and hard to see the level, flashlight on the side of the reservoir makes it a bit better.
I used the leveling jacks and removed all tires at once, I do not accept any liability for doing this, this is just what I did. All of my parts were just under 550cdn dollars for pads, rotors, hardware, sealant, brake fluid and rags, lots of rags. NAPA is your friend, at least to me it was. Saved me from a quote of 2400 dollars to have it done.
__________________
Bob and Karen. Retired and enjoying life's journey!
1999 Southwind 35S on a F-53 chassis our first class A
Loving this retirement thing!
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05-05-2018, 04:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate
Yes, brake rotors. I would pay someone to do it if I could find a shop that would follow the torque specs in the Ford manual.
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You will need a torque wrench that can go to 295 lb/ft. I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight.
There is plenty of reading here too before you start. It's not a "Light" job. Ford uses Loctite on the threads and you'll need to heat the bolts to soften the Loctite.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/greas...gs-287518.html
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/f-53-...on-284298.html
__________________
2000 Fleetwood Southwind 32V - Ford F53 V10 6.8L 208"WB 20,500 GVWR
2022 Palomino Puma Destination 39FKL
Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.
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05-05-2018, 04:29 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Thanks all. I have already done the front bearings so am familiar with some of this. I have good tools and a service manual. I did forget about buying more rear end fluid though and didn't know about sealant for axle so will buy some. Thanks for those tips.
Bled the brakes yesterday. Wish I would have waited because I now have to remove some fluid from resv. when I expand calipers back out with new pads/rotors. I didn't notice bad rotors until I was well into bleeding. I use one of those led lamps you wear on your head strapped to resv. so I can see fluid. Pumps on bottles. Speedbleeders.
Just changed tranny pan, filter, inside and out. Trying to get all my work done.
I am a stickler for following torque values and just don't believe my only shop around me will do the same. Only way I would be satisfied will be to watch them do the work (which I don't see happening) or do it myself. I already caught them twice not using torque properly.
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05-06-2018, 06:32 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 471
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I open the bleeder on the caliper that I'm compressing. It allows the old dirty fluid to exit and not be pushed back up into the system.
__________________
2000 Fleetwood Southwind 32V - Ford F53 V10 6.8L 208"WB 20,500 GVWR
2022 Palomino Puma Destination 39FKL
Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.
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05-06-2018, 05:21 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randalpho
I open the bleeder on the caliper that I'm compressing. It allows the old dirty fluid to exit and not be pushed back up into the system.
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Great idea. Thanks.
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05-07-2018, 09:21 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Well dang it. Driver side rear upper caliper bolt blocked by the springs. Passenger side ok. I can get a socket on but no ujoint. I can break loose with wrench but don't see how I could ever retorque.
Edit: Found this tool after snooping around just in case someone else runs into the same problem.
https://store.snapon.com/Torque-Adap...e-P644908.aspx
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05-07-2018, 09:40 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate
Well dang it. Driver side rear upper caliper bolt blocked by the springs. Passenger side ok. I can get a socket on but no ujoint. I can break loose with wrench but don't see how I could ever retorque.
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Torquing to specs is very important on head bolts and many other locations on a vehicle, but not sure you have to be so critical on some other bolts. If you can fit a socket on the bolt, then a box wrench can probably fit too. If you'd like, torque the bolt you can access, then loosen with the box wrench, retighten and check with your torque wrench. Then use the same amount of force to tighten the one that's hard to access.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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05-08-2018, 04:08 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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I have not looked at the inner hearing yet. Outer bearing is fine.
__________________
In between RV's at the moment.
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05-08-2018, 04:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate
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What say you?
__________________
In between RV's at the moment.
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05-08-2018, 04:24 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendora Ca.
Posts: 1,584
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You are probably looking at an friction weld.
Mike
__________________
2004 Monaco Monarch
Blueox, SMI, 1990 Wrangler YJ
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