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Old 05-04-2018, 04:50 PM   #1
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Do It Yourself Rotor Change

Anyone done this job yourself on the F-53? Any words of wisdom to share?
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:56 PM   #2
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I guess by "Rotor Change", you mean brake rotors? Front or back axle? It's not much different than doing it on any vehicle with disc brakes, the F53 parts are just larger and heavier than most. There are many resources available online, including YouTube videos. Make sure you have the jacks, axle stands, and tools needed to do the job.
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:08 PM   #3
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Yes, brake rotors. I would pay someone to do it if I could find a shop that would follow the torque specs in the Ford manual.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:44 PM   #4
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Anyone done this job yourself on the F-53? Any words of wisdom to share?
Fronts are mostly like any front rotors. IE remove caliper, remove outer wheel bearing, slide rotor off, unbolt rotor, clean and repack the wheel bearings. Reassemble.

Rears are a little more difficult. IE remove caliper, remove axle, remove wheel bearing nut(s), remove hub, unbolt rotor, clean out the rust from the hub and inner wheel bearing. Reassemble.

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Old 05-04-2018, 11:04 PM   #5
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Plan for the whole afternoon, maybe a bit more. These parts are heavy! Have someone there to help lift. Have new front wheel seals as you will be repacking the bearings as the hubs need to come off. Have a GOOD impact wrench. A breaker bar will be needed for the caliper mount bolts, mine were done up with red loctite. Get the procedure for torquing the front wheel hubs.

For the rear, find the torque value for the rear axle nut hubs. Mine were a self locking type of nut, reusable. The gaskets on the axle shafts use sealant so have some handy, I used loctite black gasket maker. The axles will hold about a half pint of fluid on each side so remember to top up the rear diff when you are done. This would be the perfect time to change out the brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners with fresh. Filling up the front reservoir is a PITA as it is tight and hard to see the level, flashlight on the side of the reservoir makes it a bit better.
I used the leveling jacks and removed all tires at once, I do not accept any liability for doing this, this is just what I did. All of my parts were just under 550cdn dollars for pads, rotors, hardware, sealant, brake fluid and rags, lots of rags. NAPA is your friend, at least to me it was. Saved me from a quote of 2400 dollars to have it done.
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Old 05-05-2018, 04:08 PM   #6
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Yes, brake rotors. I would pay someone to do it if I could find a shop that would follow the torque specs in the Ford manual.
You will need a torque wrench that can go to 295 lb/ft. I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

There is plenty of reading here too before you start. It's not a "Light" job. Ford uses Loctite on the threads and you'll need to heat the bolts to soften the Loctite.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/greas...gs-287518.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/f-53-...on-284298.html
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Old 05-05-2018, 04:29 PM   #7
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Thanks all. I have already done the front bearings so am familiar with some of this. I have good tools and a service manual. I did forget about buying more rear end fluid though and didn't know about sealant for axle so will buy some. Thanks for those tips.

Bled the brakes yesterday. Wish I would have waited because I now have to remove some fluid from resv. when I expand calipers back out with new pads/rotors. I didn't notice bad rotors until I was well into bleeding. I use one of those led lamps you wear on your head strapped to resv. so I can see fluid. Pumps on bottles. Speedbleeders.

Just changed tranny pan, filter, inside and out. Trying to get all my work done.

I am a stickler for following torque values and just don't believe my only shop around me will do the same. Only way I would be satisfied will be to watch them do the work (which I don't see happening) or do it myself. I already caught them twice not using torque properly.
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:32 AM   #8
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I open the bleeder on the caliper that I'm compressing. It allows the old dirty fluid to exit and not be pushed back up into the system.
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:21 PM   #9
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I open the bleeder on the caliper that I'm compressing. It allows the old dirty fluid to exit and not be pushed back up into the system.
Great idea. Thanks.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:21 AM   #10
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Well dang it. Driver side rear upper caliper bolt blocked by the springs. Passenger side ok. I can get a socket on but no ujoint. I can break loose with wrench but don't see how I could ever retorque.

Edit: Found this tool after snooping around just in case someone else runs into the same problem.

https://store.snapon.com/Torque-Adap...e-P644908.aspx
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:40 AM   #11
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Well dang it. Driver side rear upper caliper bolt blocked by the springs. Passenger side ok. I can get a socket on but no ujoint. I can break loose with wrench but don't see how I could ever retorque.
Torquing to specs is very important on head bolts and many other locations on a vehicle, but not sure you have to be so critical on some other bolts. If you can fit a socket on the bolt, then a box wrench can probably fit too. If you'd like, torque the bolt you can access, then loosen with the box wrench, retighten and check with your torque wrench. Then use the same amount of force to tighten the one that's hard to access.
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Old 05-08-2018, 04:08 PM   #12
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I have not looked at the inner hearing yet. Outer bearing is fine.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-08-2018, 04:09 PM   #13
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I have not looked at the inner hearing yet. Outer bearing is fine.Attachment 202006
What say you?
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Old 05-08-2018, 04:24 PM   #14
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You are probably looking at an friction weld.



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