EEC PORT LOCATION on ‘94 RAMBLER

[Mr.J]

Great outline, Bill. I’ll start at the top and work my way down (getting new MAP & AIT sensors in the morning). Although if I may, I’d like some serious help on figuring out this vacuum system... I got a good picture of the one off the engine. I found one melted hose on the passenger side that comes from those two cans (charcoal cans are they?). I found one can in front of the radiator with. Hose going in the top, and nothing on the bottom where it’s blowing out strong air. I’ll add pictures tomorrow. I read one guy doing a smoke test to check? Sounds complicated. What are some best ways to make sure the vacuum system is correct and in full working order?

[subford]

I use a hand vacuum pump on each vacuum line to check it.
On that vacuum diagram you poster above there is a code in the lower left corner of the sticker below the test. It would be very helpful if you could post that code. The code may be "KKG".



Maybe this will help with the above questions.



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[Mr.J]

That’s telling you what?

[Mr.J]

I am on rockauto(.)com and they have 2 map sensor’s. I know the gray and black mattered on the ICM, does color matter for the map sensor? If not I’m going with the cheaper (gray) one…

[subford]

The KKG helps to get the right parts list for the engine setup.
Does your VIN say you have a 1994 or 1993?
Most RV chassis are one year older than the home and what the title says.


I have no clue on the color of a MAP sensor.
SENSOR ASSY., (Manifold Absolute Pressure) number on part would be E7EF 9F479-AA and the Ford part number is E7FZ 9F479-A.


I hope this helps.

[Mr.J]

The motor says produced April 1994. I have yet to see the VIN on the frame

[subford]

If your PCM PROGRAM CODE is TOE0 and the number on the part is # F4TF-12A650-AMA with a CAL number of 4-98B-R00 then this is your parts list.


Service number is the Ford part number.



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[subford]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

The motor says produced April 1994. I have yet to see the VIN on the frame

The VIN should be in front above the fuse/relay box.








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[Mr.J]

Well after replacing most everything having to do with fuel, I am starting to think my problem is it 100% electrical. Reason being is that, when I first drove it home on the auxiliary tank it drove fine and it was running through all these parts I just replaced. The problem didn’t come in hooked it back up to the main tank (which I just put a new fuel pump that). So I guess I will be dropping the tank again and trying to follow the electrical lines and test them at various places. Any advice everyone? This is definitely my first time doing this

[subford]

Not sure why you replaced all of those parts. Sometimes the new part is bad and the old one was good and this makes fixing everything harder.


As far as the power to the fuel pumps to check that you just ground pin #6 of the self-test plug and turn the key to the run position. This will keep the power on to the fuel pump as long as the key is in the run position. Use a loading test light (non LED) to check the circuit and do not use a meter as they will not tell you what you have at that point of testing.


Start at the Inertia fuel shut off switch to see if you have power in and out of the switch. If you do then there is inline connectors on the drivers side frame that you can check going towards the tank.

Self-test plug


The Inertia fuel shutoff switch:



Fuel system wiring:




Note that C219 and C218 labeling are swapped in the diagram below:




To look at it another way:

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[Mr.J]

I noticed a three pin connector, when I put in the new Motorcraft fuel pump it had a four pin connector, and my harness already on the motorhome was a four pin harness as well. It was plug and play, I did not have to splice the wires and upgraded from the three prong to the four prong. Which leads me to believe electrical near the tank is my problem. SubFord it I just emailed you a video of what it’s doing