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Emergency Brake Shoe repair F53
10-27-2010, 07:43 AM
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#1
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Brewer, Maine
Posts: 83
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Hello all, does anyone have any info on how to replace the brake shoes on the drive shaft E brake on a F53 chassis.
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10-27-2010, 02:51 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Beverly Hills, Mich
Posts: 796
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There's a bit of info if you search here and some other RV sites. But what I think you'll find is it's either expensive or hard. I'm dealing with a bad bearing in mine that wrecked the brake and did some damage to the trans. What makes you think you need new shoes?
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Tim.
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10-27-2010, 07:14 PM
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#3
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Brewer, Maine
Posts: 83
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I have adjusted the cable to the full extent. I was thinking if not the shoes maybe the cable could of stretched and maybe needs replacement. The E brake will not hold the RV for a state inspection.
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10-27-2010, 08:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 154
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The E-brake can be rebuilt and a brake shop called CH Topping in Long Beach, Ca. can rebuild it if you feel it's to much for you to take on. They can also sell you the the shoes with new brake material on them. Some where on the net are instructions on how to take it off and rebuild it I found it a while back and printed it out.
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2001 Sea View 31' F53 1 slide
96 4Runner 4x4 toad M&G Brakes Remco disconnect
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10-28-2010, 02:01 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 12
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try this one
This setup is a little harder to deal with than the one on the rear end, but still not too bad. It should take about 3 hours. My guide says 2.3.
Here are the instructions:
You will need a few special tools, you can rent them from the auto parts store:
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Here is a blowup of the parts, and identification chart:
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Remove the Parking brake assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the parking brake filler plug and drain the lubricant.
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Remove the parking brake vent.
Mount the parking brake in a vise so that the vise jaws grip the output flange yoke.
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If required, use a hammer and punch to relieve the locking punch mark from the locknut flange so that the locknut can be freely turned.
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Using a 2 9/16 Inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T4252-D, remove the lock nut from the mainshaft.
Remove the lock nut washer.
Remove the parking brake from the vise.
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NOTE: Use care not to lose the mainshaft shim. Using 2-3 Jaw Puller D8OL-1013-A or equivalent, separate the mainshaft, parking brake drum and output flange assembly from the parking brake housing.
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Remove the mainshaft shim from the mainshaft.
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CAUTION: The mainshaft, parking brake drum and output flange are factory balanced and serviced as an assembly only. Match mark and disassemble only if replacing the parking brake rear bearing or parking brake rear seal. Match mark the output flange, parking brake drum and mainshaft for assembly reference.
Mount the mainshaft, parking brake drum and output flange assembly in vise gripping the output flange yoke.
CAUTION: To maintain factory balance, do not remove the mainshaft-to-output flange bolts from the mainshaft.
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Remove the four 11/16 mainshaft-to-output flange nuts.
Remove the mainshaft and parking brake drum from the output flange.
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Remove the output flange from the vise.
If damaged or leaking, remove the output flange plug from the center of the output flange.
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Using 2-3 Jaw Puller D8OL-1O13-A with Bearing Pulling Attachment D79L4621-A and Step Plate D8OL-630-6 or equivalents, remove the parking brake rear bearing from the mainshaft.
Remove the parking brake rear seal from the mainshaft. Discard the seal.
NOTE: Insert the tool jaws into the recesses provided in the parking brake housing.
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Using Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1 102-A, remove the parking brake rear bearing cup from the parking brake housing.
Turn the parking brake housing over and remove the mainshaft spacer. Remove the O-ring from the spacer.
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Using Seal Remover TOOL-1175-AC or equivalent, remove the parking brake front seal. Discard the seal.
Remove the parking brake front bearing cone from the parking brake housing.
NOTE: Position the tool jaws in the recesses provided in the casting. Using Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A or equivalent, remove the parking brake front bearing cup from the parking brake housing.
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Remove the four backing plate-to-parking brake housing bolts.
NOTE: To aid assembly, observe the orientation of the actuating lever and actuating lever spring. NOTE: Because the parking brake shoes and the backing plate are serviced as a combined unit, they are not disassembled any further. Remove the parking brake shoe and backing plate assembly from the parking brake housing.
Remove the splash shield from the parking brake housing.
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Remove the actuating lever and the actuating lever spring from the parking brake housing.
Transmission-Mounted Parking Brake Assembly
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Using Bearing Cup Replacer T88T-2598-E, install the parking brake rear bearing cup in the parking brake housing.
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Position the parking brake rear bearing cone in the parking brake rear bearing cup.
NOTE: The lip of the parking brake rear seal should face inward.
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Using Seal Replacer T58T-2598-C, install a new parking brake rear seal.
Turn the parking brake housing over and, using Bearing Cup Replacer T88T-2598-D, install the parking brake front bearing cup.
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Using the orientation noted at disassembly, position the actuating lever spring on the parking brake housing.
Apply a light coating of Ford Disc Brake Caliper Slide. Grease D7AZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C172-A to the ball of the actuating lever.
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Position the actuating lever ball end through the coil of the actuating lever spring into the mating hole in the parking brake housing.
Position the splash shield on the parking brake housing over the actuating lever cam.
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Position the parking brake shoe and backing plate assembly on the splash shield.
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Install the four backing plate-to-housing bolts through the. backing plate and splash shield. Tighten to 118-123 Nm (87-90 lb-ft) .
Position the actuating lever spring on the actuating lever to apply tension.
CAUTION: Use softjaws to protect the mainshaft. Mount the mainshaft in a suitable vise with the flange end upward.
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If necessary, apply sealer and install the output flange plug. Make sure the plug is flush with the output flange bore.
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Aligning the disassembly match marks, position the parking brake drum and output flange over the mainshaft-to-output flange bolts.
Install, but do not tighten, the four 11/16 mainshaft-to-output flange nuts.
Remove the mainshaft, parking brake drum and output flange assembly from the vise and reverse the position so that the vise clamps on the output flange yoke.
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Tighten the mainshaft-to-output flange nuts to 113-117 Nm (84-86 lb-ft) .
CAUTION: Use care not to damage the parking brake rear bearing seal. Carefully guide the parking brake housing over the mainshaft.
NOTE: The mainshaft shim determines the mainshaft end play and is available in increments of O.048mm (0.0019 inch) .
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Install the mainshaft shim.
Install the parking brake front bearing cone.
Seat the front bearing cone, using Bearing Cone Replacer T88T-2598-F.
NOTE: For mainshaft end play measurement, install the mainshaft spacer without the O-ring.
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Install the mainshaft spacer.
Install the lock nut washer.
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Install a new lock nut and, using 2 9/16-Inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T4252-D, tighten to 288-292 Nm (213-215 lb-ft) .
Remove the parking brake from the vise and position on a smooth flat surface with the output flange down.
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Mount Dial Indicator with Bracketry TOOLA2O1-C or equivalent between the mainshaft and the parking brake housing to check end play.
While rotating the parking brake housing on the mainshaft to center the bearings, apply pressure up and down while taking an end play reading. A reading of 0.0483-0.0991 mm (0.0019-0.0039 inches) is required. If the measurement is not within specification, a thinner or thicker shim will be required.
Mount the parking brake in a vise, gripping the output flange yoke.
Remove the lock nut, lock nut washer and mainshaft spacer from the mainshaft.
NOTE: Use care not to lose the mainshaft shim.
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If required to install different size mainshaft shim, use 2-3 Jaw Puller D8OL-1013-A or equivalent, to separate the mainshaft, parking brake drum and output flange assembly from the parking brake housing only enough to free the parking brake front bearing cone.
If required, remove the parking brake front bearing cone and install the mainshaft shim required to meet end play specification.
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If required, reinstall the parking brake front bearing cone.
If required, seat the front bearing cone using Bearing Cone Replacer T88T-2595-F.
NOTE: The lip of the parking brake front seal must face inward.
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Using Seal Replacer T88T-2598-B, install a new parking brake front seal.
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Install a new O-ring in the groove of the mainshaft spacer.
Install the mainshaft spacer on the mainshaft up to the inner race of the parking brake front bearing.
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Install the lock nut washer, the lock nut and, using 2 9/1 6-Inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T4252-D tighten to 288-292 Nm (213-215 lbft) .
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Use a hammer and punch to dimple the lock nut flange into the notch on the mainshaft.
NOTE: The parking brake vent must be clean and open. Install the parking brake vent. Tighten to 11-16 Nm (8-12 lb-ft) .
Remove the parking brake from the vise.
Install the parking brake on the vehicle.
Fill the parking brake to the bottom of the filler hole with Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid, XT-2-QDX or DDX or MERCON equivalent.
Install the parking brake filler plug. Tighten to 35-40 Nm (26-29 lb-ft) .
Expert: ase_master327Pos. Feedback: 99.1 %Accepts: 735Answered: 5/13/2008 Shop Owner
+15 years experience with Fords. Bumper to bumper diagnosis & repair.
519 days and 8 hours ago.
Reply
Wow... i'm very impressed. one last little thing: 99% of description focuses on the dis-assembly/re-building of the unit. can i assume that removing and re-attaching the brake unit is pretty straightforard?
i'll use this service again and recommend to others!
k
Posted by ase_master327 519 days and 8 hours ago.
Answer
Thank you!!
But yes, removing the assembly from the transmission is pretty straightforward, you will have to remove the driveshaft, of course...It's pretty much plug and play, though.
Tell your friends about us, too!
Hey are you in TX? I have an old 'mentor' lives near Houston, named Ken. I used to do alot
.mht#ixzz13gXyIpMJ
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10-28-2010, 06:05 PM
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#6
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Brewer, Maine
Posts: 83
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thanks papp for the info, I'll review and gather some tools and see if I have the courage to tackle the beast.
Peter
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10-29-2010, 07:09 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Milledgeville Ga.
Posts: 1,161
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Let us know how you make out. Sounds like a beast to me especially laying on the floor. Of course my age don't help much either.
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Jerry & Patsy, Taz & Jake
2000 Winnebago Journey
2006 Ford Explorer 4X4
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10-29-2010, 07:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Beverly Hills, Mich
Posts: 796
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Thanks for the great info. I have 2003 and 2004 service manuals for all Fords including the F650/750, but none had the procedure to service the brake. The motorhome service manual only covers replacing the whole unit.
It comes off pretty easy (at least it supposed to, mine was seized to the output shaft of the trans). So most of the hard work is on a bench, not on your back.
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Tim.
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11-04-2010, 01:27 PM
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#9
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Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Van Nuys, CA
Posts: 80
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I wish I saw this thread sooner, Have you checked the brake fluid in it?
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2009 F150 SuperCrew Platinum
2008 Allegro 32BA
2008 Escape Hybrid (toad)
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11-04-2010, 03:09 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 154
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Keith there is no brake fluid in it there is trans fluid just a few oz. and you check that by the plug on the left front side, fill till it starts to run out and put the plug back in.
__________________
2001 Sea View 31' F53 1 slide
96 4Runner 4x4 toad M&G Brakes Remco disconnect
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12-09-2010, 05:10 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 78
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Thanks one and all for the tips on checking the fluid in the E-brake. I never knew the fluid was there. It seems kind of a mickey mouse design to have a seperate reservoir for it. Why didn't Ford just tap into the transmission?
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11-19-2011, 07:00 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
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Hi Peter just wondering how you made out with rebuild of e-brake?
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11-20-2011, 04:14 PM
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#13
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Brewer, Maine
Posts: 83
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I didn't tackle the job, seemed to be too many tools I didn't have in my shop. I installed a Line Lock on my brake system which works very well. thanks for checking.
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Peter & Judy
2000 Adventurer 37G,F53,V10,Banks Power Pack,5 Star Tune,Steer Safe,Koni FSD,Ride Rite Air Bags Front & Rear,Bead tire balance,03 4Runner
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12-22-2011, 06:48 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 17
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Just thought I'd post that I used the rebuild guide to rebuild my 2002 E-54 parking brake , it took a little while to round up the parts but all went well. I love how ford and everyone else claim this unit is not serviceable, to me its and the parts suppliers its the exact same unit as the f-53. retail about $275, I bet I could have found cheaper if I wanted to drive around. beats the hell out of $830 + shipping for a rebuilt.
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