engine temperature

[koda59]

I have the v-10 on a 2004 ford f53 chassy. The temp guage on the dash reads normal but my scan guage reads high of 220 and low of 202. I changed the thermosat twice. I also changed the sensor. Any idea if I should be worried ? Should I take it to the ford ddealer? I haved not gotten any codes.

[sknight]

It's normal. Modern electric fans don't even come on until 228* unless you turn on the AC. The thermostat should be a 195* unit, depending on where the sensor is it reading a few degrees higher than the thermostat is fine.

[koda59]

Thanks for the quick response. I don't have an electric fan. I have a clutch fan. I also changed the clutch fan about 4 months ago because it was frozen.

[auto]

The dash temp guage is not real time it is more like a dummy light than an real guage. They will read the same on colder days, hot days and on long hill climes. Actual temps of 180 to 230 or under extreme even 240 is normal.

[Wizard]

Before I did much more, I would call Linear Logic and have them make sure you have the correct programming in the SCII. One digit could cause a read error.

The number is 888-433-5664

They have been very helpful in the past.
BTW, my '02 V10 normally runs 193 Degrees

[koda59]

Thanks all for your response. I did talk to Leann and Joey at Linear Logic and they said 200 to 220 is normal reading for a large engine in such an enclosed space. I guess now I can rest easy.

[hdossett]

Quote:

Originally Posted by koda59 Thanks all for your response. I did talk to Leann and Joey at Linear Logic and they said 200 to 220 is normal reading for a large engine in such an enclosed space. I guess now I can rest easy.

FWIW, my '01 runs about 188, according to the Scan Gauge, and the fan comes on @193, and holds it between 190-200 on a long climb in hot weather. I have seen 210 when starting a hot engine, but it drops as soon as the water circulates.

[John Hilley]

I posed the same kind of question a week a go on this forum about voltage

Scan Gauge II Voltage

My Scan Gauge also shows much higher temp than the Ford gauge. I don't hear my fan come on at all any more. Was thinking of changing my thermostat. I guess we don't have to worry if the engine doesn't go into "Protective Mode". The highest mine has gone on a long grade in the 70 degree ambient temp range is 235 degrees. I have a 1999 35' Winnebago Brave and pull a 1991 Jeep Wrangler.

[LVJ58]

John, I also have the SG, and have never seen the temp get that high on ours, you may have a bad fan clutch, I would have that checked first before I did anything with the thermostat.

Good luck

[Capt. Flipper]

To the original poster and any others that are seeing temps over 215F on the V10, you probably have an issue. The viscous fan clutch should engage over 215F with the obvious roar and rapid lowering of engine temp. You can't tell much from the Ford gauge because it is calibrated to not respond to rising temps below about 230F. By 238F it will be in the red zone. All my readings are based on a Scan Gauge.

My 1999 F53 chassis rises to 235F or higher pulling a long hill and no fan engagement occurs. I replaced the fan clutch and no difference. Still doesn't engage. I found from postings on other sites that this condition can be caused by internal clogging of the radiator in the central area in front of the fan. When this occurs, the fan won't come on at the proper temp because it doesn't see the heated air at the bimetal accuator. The remedy is a new or recored radiator. I just finished radiator install and now await my next encounter with a long hill pull at the end of this month.

[koda59]

Thank you all for your imput. Captain Flipper let us know how your temp does with the new radiator. I guess I am back to square one.
To recap what I have done so far
1. replaced thermostat with new fail safe 195.
2. replaced clutch fan that was frozen.
3. replaced temp sensor
4. used 2 bottles prestone engine flush
5. replaced radiator cap on resevoir
6. replaced antifreeze

Called ford and they said need to take it to dealer
Called Linear Logic and they say temps are fine

I will try a back power flush to see of that helps. If not then its remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop and see what they suggust.
Engine has never gone into fail safe.

[Redapple]

Quote:

Originally Posted by koda59 Thank you all for your imput. Captain Flipper let us know how your temp does with the new radiator. I guess I am back to square one. To recap what I have done so far 1. replaced thermostat with new fail safe 195. 2. replaced clutch fan that was frozen. 3. replaced temp sensor 4. used 2 bottles prestone engine flush 5. replaced radiator cap on resevoir 6. replaced antifreeze Called ford and they said need to take it to dealer Called Linear Logic and they say temps are fine I will try a back power flush to see of that helps. If not then its remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop and see what they suggust. Engine has never gone into fail safe.

I think what you are dealing with is what Ford is calling a False Overheat. They came out with a TSB on it. The TSB involves replacement of the crossover tube, and thermostat.

I was having issues, and when my MH was just about 3 years old, I went into limp mode for the first time. The gauge would read normal, and suddenly jump up to the red, and limp mode. I would turn off the engine, and immediately restart, and it was fine.

When I got my scan gauge, it was also showing variations from 202 all the way to 235.

I would investigate the False Overheat TSB 06-21-15.

PM me with your e-mail and I will send you a PDF of the TSB.

If you are not under warranty, this could cost upwards of 1000 bucks. That is what I was quoted by my local Ford dealer, but you could choose to do the work yourself.

Since I had this repair done, I rarely see temps beyond 208. The big hill I always deal with is the big hill in California on the 395 just outside Bishop. 12 miles of 6 to 7 % grade, that is when it hovers around 208. most of the time it is between 198 and 203.


Bill

[Capt. Flipper]

Well, here I am back to report on the effect of replacing the radiator. On my most recent trip, I encountered a 7 mile pull at 6-7 % grade. According to the Scan Gauge, at about the 5 mile point temp had risen to 230F. This is similar to the old radiator. So, apparently the radiator is not the issue. At this temp I would normally back off to bring the temp down but this time I was feeling very frustrated with this situation and said "screw it", if it blows, it blows. I kept my foot in it for the next 2 miles and noticed a surprising thing. The temp rose to and peaked at 236F (Ford gauge was just entering the red zone) then began falling and by the time I reached the crest it was down to 220F and the gauge was at the 1/3 scale normal area. I did not hear the viscous clutch lock up at any time but with the engine turning 4500 rpm at full load, I'm not sure I could notice. Now I'm left wondering if I really have a problem at all. Any ideas?

I could be wrong but don't believe the false overheating TSB applies to the 99 MY.

[Redapple]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt. Flipper Well, here I am back to report on the effect of replacing the radiator. On my most recent trip, I encountered a 7 mile pull at 6-7 % grade. According to the Scan Gauge, at about the 5 mile point temp had risen to 230F. This is similar to the old radiator. So, apparently the radiator is not the issue. At this temp I would normally back off to bring the temp down but this time I was feeling very frustrated with this situation and said "screw it", if it blows, it blows. I kept my foot in it for the next 2 miles and noticed a surprising thing. The temp rose to and peaked at 236F (Ford gauge was just entering the red zone) then began falling and by the time I reached the crest it was down to 220F and the gauge was at the 1/3 scale normal area. I did not hear the viscous clutch lock up at any time but with the engine turning 4500 rpm at full load, I'm not sure I could notice. Now I'm left wondering if I really have a problem at all. Any ideas? I could be wrong but don't believe the false overheating TSB applies to the 99 MY.

Capt. Flipper,

You are correct, the False Overheat does not apply to you as you have a 99, however, Koda 59 fits all the criteria for False Overheat. You may have some deeper issues. Carbon Buildup could also lead to higher than normal temps, but you would also suffer from the other symptoms that go with that, specifically detonation, run-on. It is at least worth looking into.

Good Luck to both of you...

Bill