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11-20-2019, 03:06 PM
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#43
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyR
I'm just glad to see a resolution and also that you took the time to share it with us.
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For all the help and great knowledge, that is the least I can do.
Thanks everyone!!!
__________________
Marcus and Family
99 Bounder 34V / F53 Chassis / 4R100 Tranny 56,000 Miles
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11-20-2019, 08:12 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 4,350
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My thought is loss of fuel pressure? Try turning IGN ON (without starting) until fuel pump times out, then OFF/ ON again, and repeat a third time. If you have a FP RELAy, REPLACE IT ($10-$20?). MAY WELL BE symptom of FAILING FUEL PUMP?
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(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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11-22-2019, 12:30 PM
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#45
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THenne1713
My thought is loss of fuel pressure? Try turning IGN ON (without starting) until fuel pump times out, then OFF/ ON again, and repeat a third time. If you have a FP RELAy, REPLACE IT ($10-$20?). MAY WELL BE symptom of FAILING FUEL PUMP?
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Thanks for the help. I have fixed the problem. It was actually the PCM relay!
Marcus
__________________
Marcus and Family
99 Bounder 34V / F53 Chassis / 4R100 Tranny 56,000 Miles
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11-24-2019, 03:09 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 671
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the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank is going bad, replace the pump and you will be good
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11-24-2019, 03:46 PM
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#47
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 49
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Hard to start
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger. It had a similar problem. If it had sat overnight it wouldn't start without cranking it a lot. The fuel pump had pressure and it had plenty of spark. The fuel pump has a check valve that failed allowing the fuel to run back into tank. I replaced the pump and presto no more problem.
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11-24-2019, 05:22 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harmonybrew
Hello all,
On my 99 Bounder, V10, 6.8L, F53 Chassis, I am having a problem where it won't start if it sits a few days. Otherwise, it starts fine.
If it has been more than a few days, I have to turn it over for quite some time before it starts. Then it can be turned off and restarted pretty much immediately.
I have changed the fuel filter. I have switched out the fuel pump fuse. Neither has helped.
Any ideas other than the fuel pump. This is the one job that I don't want to do myself. Could there be any other causes?
Thanks in advance,
Marcus
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The rubber hoses, at the in-line filters or at the carb, and everywhere between, are probably dry rotted, allowing the fuel pump to lose it's prime. Replace the hoses, try again
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Denny
Stuart, Fl
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11-24-2019, 07:41 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 297
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You have an air leak. The fuel line is draining back, either into the tank, or onto the ground, the fuel is being replaced by air and that air has to be bled-off before the engine can start. Remove the fuel line from the injector rack, blow into it - not too hard, but you should not be able to blow any air into the line. Conversely, find a junction in the line near the tank (fuel filter???), blow toward the engine, air shold not be ble to flow. The fuel pump should have a check valve, it may have dirt or corrosion. If the fuel pressure is acceptable while the engine is running, just buy and install a check valve back near the tank. There are many possibilities for air leaks that are not catastrophic but they're tough to find. If you need to, replacing the entire line from the filter to the engine may be the option. Most mechanics have a "Mighty Vac", a vacuum hand pump. You can use that to pull a slight vacuum on the fuel line to verify the presence or absence of a leak. Conversely that pump also creates pressure, you should be able to pressurize the line and check to see how long it holds without leaking down.
Good luck
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11-24-2019, 09:08 PM
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#50
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 16
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Swap out the fuel pump relay. I had the same problem with my old class c with the 460.
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11-24-2019, 10:47 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 2,977
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Yes, people. DO keep ignoring post #45.
I guess you could ask a moderator to lock the thread, it's getting silly.
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11-25-2019, 08:23 AM
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#52
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Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 47
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Just a thought, but I had a 2000 Hurricane on an F53. I was able to create an access to replace my fuel pump through a hole in the floor inside a cabinet. The hardest part was finding the location of the fuel pump on top of the tank. After that cutting/ patching the hole and replacing the pump was a 30 minute job. Even if it is under a carpeted section, replacement from the top side would be a piece of cake
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11-25-2019, 01:33 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Mid Atlantic Campers Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Warrenton Va
Posts: 295
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how, exactly, does that work?
Yes, I've read the entire thread. Yes, I've seen the answer.
Now, if it is OK, I'd like to ask a related question.
My little MH has a 2017 Triton V10 and I'm curious.
From what I've read here, the fuel pump seems to be inside the fuel tank.
When the engine is shut down, what prevents the fuel in the line from going backward into the tank by gravity?
Is it just that no air can enter the system because it is sealed?
Or, is there a check-valve somewhere to prevent backflow?
Or, does the fuel pump act as a one-way valve when it is not running?
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2017 Thor Freedom Elite 23H
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11-25-2019, 02:03 PM
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#54
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Registered User
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 7,114
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Quote:
When the engine is shut down, what prevents the fuel in the line from going backward into the tank by gravity?
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Check valve built into the pump. This also holds pressure in the fuel line for the next time you start.
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11-25-2019, 03:21 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WileyOne
Yes, I've read the entire thread. Yes, I've seen the answer.
Now, if it is OK, I'd like to ask a related question.
My little MH has a 2017 Triton V10 and I'm curious.
From what I've read here, the fuel pump seems to be inside the fuel tank.
When the engine is shut down, what prevents the fuel in the line from going backward into the tank by gravity?
Is it just that no air can enter the system because it is sealed?
Or, is there a check-valve somewhere to prevent backflow?
Or, does the fuel pump act as a one-way valve when it is not running?
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I agree with Waiter21 that there is a one-way check valve inside the pump...
There is a fuel pump inside the tank, but it doesn't have to be there. You can buy an external replacement fuel pump, gas or diesel. They are available several places like Napa, I always check and spec here: Summit Racing
When I bought my first diesel pusher and had a fuel problem, the tech replaced a leaking banjo connection and also said I had a lazy fuel pump in my tank...whatever that is. So just in case he was right, I wanted to give my mechanical lift pump a boost so I installed an external. Plumbed it into the fuel hose back near the engine. 12 years later, still going strong, never had another fuel issue with the RV.
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11-25-2019, 09:39 PM
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#56
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Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 48
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the most common problem will be bad check valve inside the fuel pump, bleeding the fuel back into the tank. by turning the ign. switch off and on, you may be able to shorten the crank time. less common, could be the spark plugs. ck how many miles the rv has, and what are manufacture recomm.
joe p
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