Community Forums

semcha · 03-04-2019, 07:02 PM

Yes, the coin is in place, didn't move. The pipe to the EGR valve remained cool, so I figure no exhaust was getting through either.

Occurred to me that when I first tried the coin trick, I could hear the EGR valve click several times at idle. I read yesterday that it should not engage at idle. This was when everything was plugged in.

I'm thinking I need to test the wires, but I'm not sure what to look for. Thinking it is time to get the Ford diagnostics book.

This is frustrating!

Sean

subford · 03-04-2019, 08:25 PM

Yes the egr valve remains closed at idle or WOT.
The valve is to open only at mid throttle at highway speed on an warm engine.

/

semcha · 03-05-2019, 02:46 AM

Where is the DPFE Sensor located in the F53? I'm only finding general photos of Ford trucks.

subford · 03-05-2019, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

Where is the DPFE Sensor located in the F53? I'm only finding general photos of Ford trucks.

It does not have one.

It has an the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor

he EVP EGR Valve is required in EEC systems where EGR flow is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor attached to the valve.

The valve is operated by a vacuum signal from the EGR Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid (9J459) which actuates the valve diaphragm.

As supply vacuum overcomes the spring load, the diaphragm is actuated. This lifts the pintle off its seat allowing exhaust gas to recirculate (flow). The amount of flow is proportional to the pintle position. The EVP sensor mounted on the valve sends an electrical signal of its position to the PCM./

semcha · 03-05-2019, 07:00 AM

Okay, that makes sense. I am looking at https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...e-egr-system-3. Looks like I could modify these tests to the EVP sensor instead of the DPFE Position Sensor.

Thank you!

Sean

Quote:

Originally Posted by subford

It does not have one.

It has an the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor

he EVP EGR Valve is required in EEC systems where EGR flow is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor attached to the valve.

The valve is operated by a vacuum signal from the EGR Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid (9J459) which actuates the valve diaphragm.

As supply vacuum overcomes the spring load, the diaphragm is actuated. This lifts the pintle off its seat allowing exhaust gas to recirculate (flow). The amount of flow is proportional to the pintle position. The EVP sensor mounted on the valve sends an electrical signal of its position to the PCM./

semcha · 03-08-2019, 05:09 PM

I'm a little confused by the results of my tests. FYI, before I ran the tests, I removed the coin from the tube going to the EGR.

First the voltage reading to the EGR solenoid is 14.58 v while the engine running. With the engine off, I get 788 ohms, grounded on the RV frame. .414 resistance. I don't know enough about these readings to know how to interpret them.

Back probed the EGR position sensor connector. Started at .3 volts with the engine running. No change with vacuum applied. I readjusted the probes. No change. Turned multimeter off and on. Then the reading jumped to 3.5 v, then 5, 4.5, then quickly dropped 3, 2.8, 2.5, etc. down to .3 again. I wasn't applying a vacuum or doing anything else.

Does this mean a problem with the wire harness? Faulty position sensor? The only other thing that has me perplexed is the position sensor part. When I changed it 8 months ago, I installed the part from Autozone, but it was gray instead of the original black. I have run across a few things talking about there being a difference between the gray and black. The Ford part number I have is 9g428, but I can't get a good cross reference. Ford also says CX1464 on their site, but says it doesn't fit the F53. At Oreilly's, the part looks like EGR102P. I think mine is EGR102.

Finally, if I have to replace wires, do I just replace the entire wire harness? The part I have for that is 9D930, but that brings up multiple part numbers. Any idea how to find the right one?

Thanks!

Sean

subford · 03-08-2019, 05:32 PM

Deleted Deleted.

subford · 03-08-2019, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

First the voltage reading to the EGR solenoid is 14.58 v while the engine running.

That is normal as you are reading the red 361 wire. You can see that in the wiring diagram above.

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

With the engine off, I get 788 ohms, grounded on the RV frame. .414 resistance. I don't know enough about these readings to know how to interpret them.

I have no idea what wire you are taking reading from. If it is the red 361 wire who knows what it would be as that wire goes to other solenoids and places.

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

Back probed the EGR position sensor connector. Started at .3 volts with the engine running. No change with vacuum applied. I readjusted the probes. No change. Turned multimeter off and on. Then the reading jumped to 3.5 v, then 5, 4.5, then quickly dropped 3, 2.8, 2.5, etc. down to .3 again. I wasn't applying a vacuum or doing anything else.
Does this mean a problem with the wire harness? Faulty position sensor? The only other thing that has me perplexed is the position sensor part.

Go to this url for information on this sensor.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

semcha · 03-08-2019, 06:59 PM

The link isn't working to the Ford Fuel Injection site. Took me to Toyota. Tried again, went to Carfax. Went to the URL. Brought up another weird page. Is it this?
http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page35.html

I think I will try replacing the EGR valve sensor. Seems like if I have the wrong part, the valve pintle might be an issue.

Sean

subford · 03-08-2019, 08:40 PM

Do not know why that link does not work but here is a PDF of what that link was about.

semcha · 03-13-2019, 06:53 PM

I got the new EGR valve position sensor. Checked it against the old one. No difference other than the black color. I saw that it has voltage differences noted in the PDF. I checked to see if the pintle extended completely when installed. Neither the black or the gray extend all the way! So, that's the source of my error code.

Now, I guess this means my EGR valve is slightly off spec. I don't recall what brand it is. I am hoping if I get a BWD brand EGR valve to match the BWD sensor that everything will work together. I really don't want to spend all that money on Motorcraft OEM for something I don't want anyway.

FYI, I ran the KOEO check while the EGR valve position sensor was removed from the EGR valve. No code.

If I used a high speed metal cutter, do you think I could trim the pintle, if worse comes to worst?

Sean

Quote:

Originally Posted by subford

Do not know why that link does not work but here is a PDF of what that link was about.

semcha · 03-24-2019, 05:12 AM

I have been trying to close out this issue, but the forum has been giving me errors.

Got the BWD EGR valve. It did not match the part on the RV. The exhaust connection pointed the wrong way. I placed the sensor on top of it to see if it would compress the pindle. It did. So, instead of buying more parts, I used my dremel and cut off 3/16 inch of the pindle on my old sensor. Installed it. No more error code. I returned the other parts to Advance Auto.

Guess the lesson is, if you need to replace the part, go with Motorcraft. Ugh.

My engine is running like a dream now. Have done a lot driving over the past week with no issues. Plenty of power on mountains. I figure all this chasing the problem forced some maintenance work on the engine that probably needed to be done anyway.

Sean

Quote:

Originally Posted by semcha

I got the new EGR valve position sensor. Checked it against the old one. No difference other than the black color. I saw that it has voltage differences noted in the PDF. I checked to see if the pintle extended completely when installed. Neither the black or the gray extend all the way! So, that's the source of my error code.

Now, I guess this means my EGR valve is slightly off spec. I don't recall what brand it is. I am hoping if I get a BWD brand EGR valve to match the BWD sensor that everything will work together. I really don't want to spend all that money on Motorcraft OEM for something I don't want anyway.

FYI, I ran the KOEO check while the EGR valve position sensor was removed from the EGR valve. No code.

If I used a high speed metal cutter, do you think I could trim the pintle, if worse comes to worst?

Sean