Community Forums

bruscillo · 12-09-2014, 06:37 PM

Have the v10 in my 09 motor home and will be sitting idle in a campground for 5 months in Yuma, AZ area. Should I exercise the engine or leave it sit? Have the trik-L-start to keep starting battery charged. If your answer is yes, how often and how long do you recommend it be run?

Bob R
2009 Tiffin Open Road 32BA
CRV toad, 5 Star Tune

ARFFMAN · 12-09-2014, 06:56 PM

The worst thing you can do to any engine is letting it sit without using it. An engine was produced to work and to be excercised. On the other hand it is hard on an engine to be started then shut down before it has reached operating temp. Run it for at least 30 minutes under a load. Take your MH out of campsite and take it for a ride and take it though it paces a least every 3 weeks. This goes for your generator too. Run it for 30 minutes under load and the let it idle with no load
on it for 15 minutes more. Your engine, transmission, generator will thank you with many years service. This also goes for all your systems in M H.

Mr_D · 12-09-2014, 06:57 PM

Well, here's what Cummins says about it, not that it covers your question at all!

Quote:

From the perspective of the Cummins engine it is good to do either one of two things:

1) Start the engine and drive it or 2) do not start the engine.

Our engines do not gain anything by idling. In fact a diesel engine on low idle will not ever get up to operating temperatures which is bad for the engine and can cause an increase in soot production.

The other side of the story is that starting the engine and letting it idle is probably good for other things like air brakes, heating and cooling, etc. So probably the best answer to try to get both worlds to meet is to occasionally take the unit out for a drive during times of prolonged storage.

wa8yxm · 12-10-2014, 06:38 AM

Exercise must be done under load, 30 minutes minimum, if you can not drive it do not start it.

There is an alternative, not much thought about any more save by the Military and some professionals but for any given engine both Gasoline nad Diesel there is a procedure called "Mothballing" this is used for long term storage, I know the basics for a gas engine, but not well enough to give instructions.. I do know it involves changing the oil and filter to get rid of any acids and such that may be in the oil (Metal eating termites, that is what Acid is, very tiny metal eating termites). and either treating the fuel (Short term) or draining it (long term) and fogging the cylinders, but there is more that I have forgotten.. and again this is for Gasoline, do not know the procedure for diesel, though treating the fuel with the proper treatment is highly recommended.

56safari · 12-10-2014, 08:02 AM

A lot of us with classic cars face this issue every winter. The general rule is don't start it if you aren't going to drive it. Instead, change the oil and filter, fill the fuel tank (some use premium fuel) and add Sta-Bil or some other gas preservative and lube the chassis. Fill the tires to the max pressure. If your coolant hasn't been changed in the last 4 or 5 years, change it. Either remove or put the battery on a trickle charger. If possible, fill the tank with gas that does not contain any ethanol, pure gas holds up better in storage.

When your ready to use the RV again, reduce the tire pressure to whatever your axle weight requires, check all the fluids and put a can ( or 2 given the size of the fuel tank) of octane boost in the tank and add fresh gas as soon as your down to half a tank.

Been storing one of my old cars that way for over 20 years and it starts every Spring without any problems. The RV never sits for more than 4 months - late fall to when we head to Florida, but I use the same process and the v10 fires up right away.

ga traveler · 12-10-2014, 09:12 AM

I have been motorhoming since 1974. My first motorhome was an 18 month old Open Road. It was a 1972 22 foot that I bought in 1974. I have had five motorhomes. I have had them set for as much as 8 months at a time without using them. I have had no bad effects with letting them set without running. All were running well and not using oil when I sold them. I have never had a engine or transmission failure in a motorhome. I think you will be OK with letting your camper sit for that length of time.

usinvestment · 12-10-2014, 03:11 PM

I start every 30 days and also start the generator and put under load by running the AC. The Engine will idle up to full temp and run for 30 minutes or so cycling the fluids.

The manual also suggests starting (V10) and running if possible periodically. I always laugh at the people the say you will do damage by starting an engine and just letting it idle. It's a machine, an engine, it will make no difference if you idle or drive it. Driving it will work the drive train and put the engine under load but it won't make it run better or give it more life, too funny, it's a machine. All machines need to be run, even if it's not under a load. Driving is always better but at least start it and run it up to full temps and the generator also.

Speaking of the V10, not diesel, don't listen to the people that say not to run it if you can't drive it, that's complete non sense!!!

DMTTRANSPORT · 12-10-2014, 03:27 PM

Sitting for 5 months, seals should be nice and dry....

Pepper2 · 12-10-2014, 03:39 PM

We leave ours sit all winter and it starts right up come Spring. I change the oil and filter, remove the batteries, keep them warm and put a charger on them every 1 1/2- 2 months. Has worked for us the last 6 years.

cochise1949 · 12-12-2014, 12:17 AM

On my 2013 F53, the manual says run to op temp every 15 days when not being driven. How long it takes to get the temp gauge to normal depends on time of year. Good excuse to check for leaks and levels. Genset only gets a monthly workout.

chuckftboy · 12-12-2014, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usinvestment

I start every 30 days and also start the generator and put under load by running the AC. The Engine will idle up to full temp and run for 30 minutes or so cycling the fluids.

The manual also suggests starting (V10) and running if possible periodically. I always laugh at the people the say you will do damage by starting an engine and just letting it idle. It's a machine, an engine, it will make no difference if you idle or drive it. Driving it will work the drive train and put the engine under load but it won't make it run better or give it more life, too funny, it's a machine. All machines need to be run, even if it's not under a load. Driving is always better but at least start it and run it up to full temps and the generator also.

Speaking of the V10, not diesel, don't listen to the people that say not to run it if you can't drive it, that's complete non sense!!!

Very well said, I have done this with my 4 stroke outboard motors for years and never had an issue and there were plenty of times the motors set up for way over 5 months. Gas motors just don't need the tender love that a diesel needs. 5 months isn't a very long time.

"007" · 12-12-2014, 08:59 PM

Just starting up and not going on road will only add moisture in your exhaust system and rust out sooner, my coach sits till spring and only start GEN to remove the moisture and operate the AC's, on every coach I have owned with no ill effects to the V-10 engines I had.

bruscillo · 12-12-2014, 09:53 PM

Thanks to all who replied. I did add Stabil to a full gas tank. I do exercise the generator for 2 hours each month. I think I will just not run the engine until time to leave.

Bob R
2009 Tiffin Allegron Open Road 32BA

TeJay · 12-13-2014, 06:50 AM

It would be nice to see some technical information or tests done on engines and the like to really know if engines need to be exercised. I've read discussions about this for years and still really don't know the correct answer.

Here's my educated guess. We usually measure mechanical life of a vehicle by mileage. If it's mechanical then it has a limited life. It will wear out eventually. If it is (exercised) then it is being run (but not down the road). Running an engine that way will shorten it's life. That's common sense.

The question to ask is: If an engine just sets it what ways is it's life shortened. Is simply being subjected to daily moisture and temperature changes that detrimental to the engines life????

I don't believe it is. There are a few (most already mentioned) things we can do to reduce the effects. Keep the fuel tank full (moisture). Add Stabil to tank also. Change the oil so the caustic/acidic effects of the blow-by gases which contaminate the oil is reduced.

Think about this. The Feds have tons, and tons of food as well as mechanical equipment stored in caves, abandoned salt minds etc.around the country. What about the aircraft bone yards?? Yes most of those are in the dry climates and the cave stored stuff is climate controlled covered and sealed.

Did you know that every vehicle has about 1-2% moisture absorbed into the brake system just after 1 year??? Brake fluid will absorb moisture. That's also why the military has used silicone BF for years. It's DOT 5 and won't absorb moisture. They often moth ball vehicles if they don't need them and the brakes won't deteriorate over time like our vehicles. That's also why it is now recommended that we flush our brake fluid about every 3-4 years.

I think that it is reasonable to make some efforts to control moisture build up but I'll not EXERCISE my MH engine just to exercise it. Maybe once every 4-6 weeks I'll take it for a 20-30 miles drive.

TeJay