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Old 03-13-2013, 02:15 PM   #15
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You can also disconnect the cooler line going to the radiator or cooler from the transmission and start the motor and let it idle to drain into a pan. Reconnect the line and refill with fresh fluid.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:30 PM   #16
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As a (one-time) licenced mechanic, I have only done an annual sump drain 'n fill over the past 14 year life of my rig; and so far the fluid has always remained bright pink, just like new.

The 4R100 transmission just doesn't get all hot and bothered like it's predecessors. On the most demanding mountain climb I've ever encountered, the tranny temperature at the top was only 195F!!

While some report that early 4R100s don't have a drain plug, they must be an isolated few, because my "'99" chassis which was one of the very first, was actually built in '98.

To make things simple, I drain the sump, and then measure the amount as I empty the drain pan into recycle jugs; and then replace with the same amount of new fluid, (9 litres) which brings you pretty close to proper level, although I would warm it up and take a proper peak at the dipstick.

BTW, Ford never recommended a tranny flush until Ford came up with this new expensive machine, which was being pedalled to dealers. Since these machines are tyically operated by a bunch of oil bay jocks who are too dumb to get a mechanic's licence, they have a history of doing a lot of damage to seals, etal during the process.

Same goes for changing the tranny filter! Nowhere in the Shop Manual, does Ford suggest changing the filter. On that matter, I got my info from mechanics who work on Ford Trannies all day every day. Their advice is uniform: Tranny filter change is not needed. Even trannies with over 300,000 miles, the filters are just fine. The only instances where they ever encountered a clogged filter, was when the tranny was already trashed, and the bits and pieces of the broken parts found their way to the filter.

Stick with the annual 9 litre sump change. It is effective, and won't cause further damage be misadventure. Just remember to avoid over-torquing the drain plug: Since it is already lubricated, it only takes about 7 lb/lbs to secure it!
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:27 PM   #17
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Lastly, my coach has 62,000 miles on it and no where in the manual does it require a serpentine belt replacement. Just a accessory belt inspection. Doesn't even refer to a serpentine belt..Chassis is a 1999.
It's coming close to that time to not only replace your serpentine belt, but both idlers as well. I did that on my '99 at around 70,000 miles.

Sure . . . you might reasonably expect to get 100,000 miles from your belt and idlers; and that's just fine to wait until something goes wrong when you are just travelling around home base, but when you are a hundred miles from nowhere, a failed belt or idler can be a total downer.

Like most people who hang out here, when we see a disabled RV along the road, we always stop to see if there is any way we can help. A recurring theme that keeps popping up is a failed idler on a Ford chassis. The last one we stopped for, was a couple in a remote area of Alaska, waiting for an idler to be delivered from a dealer 60 miles down the highway!!

That's when I vowed to replace my entire belt and idler system while it was convenient on home base. A few $$$ up front (insurance) can save a whole lot of $$$, not to mention a really down day later on!
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:44 PM   #18
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Also, manual talks about needing a pressure relief gauge and a removal tool to replace fuel filter..This was something I was going to do myself but now I'm not sure. Dealer wants $54 to do this
Let the dealer do it!!

If you want to do it yourself:

1. you have to make two trips to the dealer parts department to get the filter; the first trip to get the one specified in the owners manual; and the second one to get a filter with the same number, as the one you already have, at a cost of about $15;

2. Then you have to purchase a special set of filter release inserts/shims for $15 -20, which you will probably use only once;

3. Don't forget the cost of a bottle of Vallium, or at least a bottle of ultra hootch, when everything doesn't go back together as uneventfully as anticipated!;

4. Bypass #1, #2, and #3, and have a fun day instead, relaxing with a few cold ones, while the dealer does the grunt work for you!
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:36 PM   #19
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Let the dealer do it!!

If you want to do it yourself:

1. you have to make two trips to the dealer parts department to get the filter; the first trip to get the one specified in the owners manual; and the second one to get a filter with the same number, as the one you already have, at a cost of about $15;

2. Then you have to purchase a special set of filter release inserts/shims for $15 -20, which you will probably use only once;

3. Don't forget the cost of a bottle of Vallium, or at least a bottle of ultra hootch, when everything doesn't go back together as uneventfully as anticipated!;

4. Bypass #1, #2, and #3, and have a fun day instead, relaxing with a few cold ones, while the dealer does the grunt work for you!
X100
We have a local oil change guy who I have do pickups and SUVs. He has the fuel filter tool and I usually have him change them at about 50 or 60 K. He says the plastic ring on the fuel filters sometimes break and he just fixes them with a old fashion hose clamp and hose, and no more stupid tool needed. I just did a 5K service on the F53 which was pretty simple. Took longer to round up all the filters for the V10 oil and air, which I didn't do a air yet as the thing hasn't never been on a dirt road. Oil and air filters for the geny which I only did oil, second change in 88 hours. 9 grease zerks on the F53 chassis and that's about it. Air the tires up before next launch and we should be good to go. It's full of water, gas and propane and waste tanks are dry. I went with 5W30 Mobil one in the Ford and 5W40 Rotella synthetic in the geny. Wanted to go 5-30 in the geny also but Onan specs a 40 weight for anything over 80 degrees. Went 15W40 first change but wanted to try syn this time as it should be getting broken in. Funny thing is I think onan says not to use syn oil, but what the H I will try it anyway.
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:30 PM   #20
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Stan, KS, thanks on the fuel filter. I will absolutely take your advice...including the hooch consumption.
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:42 PM   #21
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I went with 5W30 Mobil one in the Ford and 5W40 Rotella synthetic in the geny. Wanted to go 5-30 in the geny also but Onan specs a 40 weight for anything over 80 degrees. Went 15W40 first change but wanted to try syn this time as it should be getting broken in. Funny thing is I think onan says not to use syn oil, but what the H I will try it anyway.
The most significant problem with "super" lubricants (so called), especially those that contain stuff like molybdenum, is that they can do a lot of damage to some engine designs; particularly those with roller or ball bearings. Because of the slick surface, these bearings fail to rotate as designed and end up wearing flat on the presenting surfaces.

Since most of my gen demands occur during sub-zero weather, I use 5W30 year 'round.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:05 PM   #22
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The most significant problem with "super" lubricants (so called), especially those that contain stuff like molybdenum, is that they can do a lot of damage to some engine designs; particularly those with roller or ball bearings. Because of the slick surface, these bearings fail to rotate as designed and end up wearing flat on the presenting surfaces.

Since most of my gen demands occur during sub-zero weather, I use 5W30 year 'round.
That's what the chart on my geny called for with the sub zero temps. 5W30. The chart says 15W40 for like 20 to 100 temps. I figure the 5W40 is good from zero to 100 anyway. Most of my geny time is from 60 to 115 degrees. The 5-40 Rotella is not a super slick( energy conserving labeled oil). Been using it in the Honda automatic four wheeler and it strictly forbids the EC labeled synthetics and the Rotella is the only syn I have found not to be. So if its good enough for the Honda, it will suffice for the onan. Thought about using the 5W40 Rotella syn in the motor home, but ford calls for 5-20 and I am running 5-30 just because their 5-20 is nothing but a so called fuel saver. Local Ford tech told me they use 5-30 in most triton motors, in the super duty line anyway as is makes for less oil consumption. These V10 tritons work their buts off as they are somewhat underpowered pulling a house with a garage and car around in 100 plus degree heat. So for summer time high heat apps I think 5W40 Rotella would be a good oil in the F53 V10 motorhome. Probably would work year round for me, and that way I would only need to carry around one kind of oil!
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:56 PM   #23
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Go by a NAPA store and get the correct fuel filter, pick up 2 one for now and one to carry so when you get that bad tank of fuel you won't be sitting on the side of the road waiting for a mobile repair truck. Then pick up a set of the release tools from Autozone for a few dollars to carry with you so you can do a quick change on the roadside and get rolling again in about 15 minutes. Why pay an outragous price to have it done at a dealer and then not have the tools or the know how when you really need it. Sorry I firmly believe in doing anything I can on my own. I know it is done right and I save money too.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:59 AM   #24
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As a (one-time) licenced mechanic, I have only done an annual sump drain 'n fill over the past 14 year life of my rig; and so far the fluid has always remained bright pink, just like new.

The 4R100 transmission just doesn't get all hot and bothered like it's predecessors. On the most demanding mountain climb I've ever encountered, the tranny temperature at the top was only 195F!!

While some report that early 4R100s don't have a drain plug, they must be an isolated few, because my "'99" chassis which was one of the very first, was actually built in '98.

To make things simple, I drain the sump, and then measure the amount as I empty the drain pan into recycle jugs; and then replace with the same amount of new fluid, (9 litres) which brings you pretty close to proper level, although I would warm it up and take a proper peak at the dipstick.

BTW, Ford never recommended a tranny flush until Ford came up with this new expensive machine, which was being pedalled to dealers. Since these machines are tyically operated by a bunch of oil bay jocks who are too dumb to get a mechanic's licence, they have a history of doing a lot of damage to seals, etal during the process.

Same goes for changing the tranny filter! Nowhere in the Shop Manual, does Ford suggest changing the filter. On that matter, I got my info from mechanics who work on Ford Trannies all day every day. Their advice is uniform: Tranny filter change is not needed. Even trannies with over 300,000 miles, the filters are just fine. The only instances where they ever encountered a clogged filter, was when the tranny was already trashed, and the bits and pieces of the broken parts found their way to the filter.

Stick with the annual 9 litre sump change. It is effective, and won't cause further damage be misadventure. Just remember to avoid over-torquing the drain plug: Since it is already lubricated, it only takes about 7 lb/lbs to secure it!
The original transmission in our 2001 F53 chassis didn't have a drain plug in the transmission pan. In 2004 one of the clutch hubs cracked and the whole transmission was replaced by Ford. The new transmission has a drain plug.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:25 PM   #25
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I agree with Stan, I was told that if your fluid is dirty and filter clogged you don't need a filter change, you need an overhaul.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:16 AM   #26
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Called Ford motorhome support line to discuss proper transmission service. Full replacement of fluids requires pumping or flushing, especially if I'm not aware of which mercon fluid is in there. Mercon and Mercon5 are not compatible. He said that while the service manual shipped with the chassis does not specifically call out a filter replacement, one should be done at every transmission fluid replacement. He explained that the flushing done by shops simply uses a convenience device to attach to the cooler line to recirculate new fluid into the system using the transmissions own pump. There is no concern that this process loosens sludge to cause catastrophic failure one week later. It is no different than sitting in your driveway and dumping fluid in a bucket while running the engine. The device uses a bladder that as old fluid enters, no fluid on the other side of the bladder is returned to the tranny..No additional pressure is introduced.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:36 PM   #27
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Well like has been said,to each his own. I just know no flush machine will ever be used on mine as I know first hand what it causes. I have always just drained and refilled and never have had a transmission failure so I am not about to let them sell me a flush service that simply makes money for them. I slide under mine every 30,000 miles, drop the pan change the filter, drain the torque convertor and refill with fresh fluid and save my money for fuel. It is your decision and you are the one that will live with whatever happens, good or bad.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:03 PM   #28
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Well like has been said,to each his own. I just know no flush machine will ever be used on mine as I know first hand what it causes. I have always just drained and refilled and never have had a transmission failure so I am not about to let them sell me a flush service that simply makes money for them. I slide under mine every 30,000 miles, drop the pan change the filter, drain the torque convertor and refill with fresh fluid and save my money for fuel. It is your decision and you are the one that will live with whatever happens, good or bad.
lyons, my post was not remotely intended to agitate anyone. It was simply info received from Ford support that applied to various posts from multiple great folks. As The OP, I clearly stated that transmission service was something I would not do, hence making DYI comments worthless to me...Thanks....
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