Community Forums

Waiter21 · 05-26-2019, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Enter the CHF! I am 76 yrs old but I crawled under coach and did the CHF on the rear in 30 minutes. I also had the coach aligned. The CHF did the trick. No more sway. I can highly recommend the CHF first before spending big bucks like the previous owner.

YUP - This is why I recommend doing the CHF first before spending any money on aftermarket components. Unfortunately the vast majority of F53 owners don't know about this, and the component sellers arn't going to tell them..

I like to walk around RV park and see how many F53s have the CHF. I'd say 1 in 100..

F4Jock · 06-02-2019, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waiter21

YUP - This is why I recommend doing the CHF first before spending any money on aftermarket components. Unfortunately the vast majority of F53 owners don't know about this, and the component sellers arn't going to tell them..

I like to walk around RV park and see how many F53s have the CHF. I'd say 1 in 100..

My rig is one year too old for the sacred CHF but new Koni FSDs, Sumo Springs, a Blue Ox steering stabilizer and higher tire pressures and . . . . sway and wander is no more. As for feeling semis passing, I don't even notice them passing opposite on a two lane at 60.

I have no problems with ride quality. Not harsh at all. If I wanted totally cushy I'd be riding in a Lincoln.

DryCreek · 06-03-2019, 07:33 PM

I wonder how much the ride would improve if you removed a few of the harsh-riding leaf springs, and then added an air bag helper system. A set of front coil springs with an air bag (like the P-30/32) might be an improvement too.

The Hotchkiss style suspension is very robust, but it's not known to provide a "luxury" ride.

ClassAboater · 06-25-2019, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daydream37

My Bay Star 3215 came with all the suspension bells and whistles available, compliments to the previous owner. Track bar, sumo springs, heavier sway bars front and rear, safety plus stabilizer and urethane bushings. Still, there was more sway and wonder than I cared for.

Enter the CHF! I am 76 yrs old but I crawled under coach and did the CHF on the rear in 30 minutes. I also had the coach aligned. The CHF did the trick. No more sway. I can highly recommend the CHF first before spending big bucks like the previous owner.

I did the CHF over the winter. It really helped with the roll of the coach in cornering and with trucks passing. But, I still have a steering wonder once I get up to about 50 MPH. I have about a 2" wonder with the steering wheel going down rutted I-5 here in WA State. If a truck passes or it is windy, it is difficult keeping her between the lines. I feel like I am being steered by the tail end, then over steering to compensate this issue... :(

I took the rig into a place today to get a estimate to align the front tires and look into installing a rear trac-bar and Safe-T-Plus to the steering. In the process they found two exhaust manifold bolts missing on the driver side manifold and a LOT of corrosion on all the rest of them.

Their recommendation was to pull off the V10 exhaust manifolds and replace with Banks Power Torque Tubes (headers). (this should keep the manifold from breaking more bolts down the road) Then, putting on new Koni FDS Shocks, rear trac bar and Safe-T- Plus. After those are installed, then do the alignment.

I am at a sticker shock moment right now... The Banks headers installed are a LOT of money... This whole thing will cost about twice what I was figuring before I went in...

Fugitive861 · 06-25-2019, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClassAboater

I did the CHF over the winter. It really helped with the roll of the coach in cornering and with trucks passing. But, I still have a steering wonder once I get up to about 50 MPH. I have about a 2" wonder with the steering wheel going down rutted I-5 here in WA State. If a truck passes or it is windy, it is difficult keeping her between the lines. I feel like I am being steered by the tail end, then over steering to compensate this issue... :(

I took the rig into a place today to get a estimate to align the front tires and look into installing a rear trac-bar and Safe-T-Plus to the steering. In the process they found two exhaust manifold bolts missing on the driver side manifold and a LOT of corrosion on all the rest of them.

Their recommendation was to pull off the V10 exhaust manifolds and replace with Banks Power Torque Tubes (headers). (this should keep the manifold from breaking more bolts down the road) Then, putting on new Koni FDS Shocks, rear trac bar and Safe-T- Plus. After those are installed, then do the alignment.

I am at a sticker shock moment right now... The Banks headers installed are a LOT of money... This whole thing will cost about twice what I was figuring before I went in...

Do some research before you jump into the exhaust manifold work. My first thought is that there is little chance that all the studs will come out with the head still on the engine. I'd check to see if the price quoted includes removing heads of the engine block or not. Price may go up substantially. Good luck.

Waiter21 · 06-25-2019, 09:16 PM

If you have a little mechanical aptitude and some time, you can check/adjust the front end toe yourself..

F53 chassis front end toe-in adjustment – 1999 Southwind 35S

Then if you want to read up on broken studs:

F53 Repairing broken exhaust manifold studs – 1999 Southwind 35S

..

ClassAboater · 07-05-2019, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fugitive861

Do some research before you jump into the exhaust manifold work. My first thought is that there is little chance that all the studs will come out with the head still on the engine. I'd check to see if the price quoted includes removing heads of the engine block or not. Price may go up substantially. Good luck.

A little follow up:

The manifold studs ended up with 4 broken off when removing. The shop was able to work them out while the heads were still on. What a difference with the new Banks headers on the V-10 engine. Quieter and more power. I also had the shocks replaced, Safe-T-Plus put on and a Ultra trac bar put on. Then an alignment and finished today with wheels balanced at a tire shop.

All I can say is WOW, what a difference in handling. I am no longer fighting to keep the rig between the lines on. After two years of fighting this rig while driving, it is a pleasure to drive it now. Looking forward to our next camping trip!

Next is replacing the bushings on the sway bars. That will be an easy job on a coming weekend.

Thanks for the info on the studs and possibility of pulling the heads. I talked to the shop before I took it in and they said they normally have 6 or so broken with this change out. They have not needed to pull heads yet for the manifold work like this. I am happy to say this was a very professional shop to work with. They did good work, on time, and no extra charges. They will get my business in the future!

Waiter21 · 07-05-2019, 02:11 PM

Quote:

What a difference with the new Banks headers on the V-10 engine. Quieter and more power

Yes. I noticed more power almost immediately.. AND , a slight increase in gas mileage. (6.75 before, 7.00 after)

Quote:

I talked to the shop before I took it in and they said they normally have 6 or so broken with this change out. They have not needed to pull heads yet for the manifold work like this.

The shop that did mine said he never seen worst than mine. Although I don't do this for a living, I 've done 6-7 in my life and have never ran into one more difficult than the ones on mine..

manderson2228 · 07-05-2019, 06:18 PM

I'd do Sumo's, new shocks, and steering stabilizer and then go ahead and evaluate.

daveandcarol · 07-13-2019, 09:41 PM

All the RV rear sway bars I have seen anchor to the frame and the rear axle at single points. This causes the minor lateral side movement of the axle as it travels up and down. However, I have seen rear sway bars on street rods that have a pivoting mount at the rear axle and rods to both sides of the frame. This design keeps the axle centered during vertical movement (I believe this design started with competition vehicles). Doesn't any company produce this type of rear sway bar for RVs? Yes, probably more expensive. Guess the minor side movement is such an improvement over existing that a little bit more control isn't worth the extra expense.

daveandcarol · 07-13-2019, 09:47 PM

Also remember - the F53 chassis is designed and manufactured for several uses besides motor homes. It is basically a truck chassis so basically rides like a truck as opposed to bus chassis which are specifically designed for a smoother ride. There's probably not enough market out there for a chassis custom engineered for gasser motor homes only.

TeJay · 07-14-2019, 07:21 AM

Dave,

Your comments regarding the economy of building a better riding gas chassis are spot on. Also consider Ford is the only game in town so they don't have to fight for market shares. They are the market.

Frankly I'm surprised at their move to upgrade the engine and transmission for 2020. They have been basking in the lime light and the $$$$$$$ since 1999.

I have been under many, many RV's performing the CHF and other service work on the F-53 chassis. The rear SB does float and I have seen the rear TB off center as much as 1" to 1-1/2". There is nothing used to index the rear TB. The bend at the end of the TB limits how far it moves off center but that's it. If it's off center there is enough slak in the bushings to allow it to operate off-center.

There is a solution to what you have described as side to side or lateral differential movement and it's called a TB (Track Bar). Ford believes reducing the lateral movement is important and they added a front TB some years ago. They must not believe reducing the rear differential lateral movement is important enough to add a rear TB.

I can personally tell you of a good friend who was very close to trading his 27' WBGO Class A until we built him a rear TB. He reports to all our friends in the WBGO club of AR that his RV rides handles 200% better. He can drive relaxed with one hand. It is night and day different.

A commercial rear TB costs in the range of $400 to $500. A DIY one is less than $100 depending on your abilities.

House Husband · 07-14-2019, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Dave,

Your comments regarding the economy of building a better riding gas chassis are spot on. Also consider Ford is the only game in town so they don't have to fight for market shares. They are the market.

Frankly I'm surprised at their move to upgrade the engine and transmission for 2020. They have been basking in the lime light and the $$$$$$$ since 1999.

I have been under many, many RV's performing the CHF and other service work on the F-53 chassis. The rear SB does float and I have seen the rear TB off center as much as 1" to 1-1/2". There is nothing used to index the rear TB. The bend at the end of the TB limits how far it moves off center but that's it. If it's off center there is enough slak in the bushings to allow it to operate off-center.

There is a solution to what you have described as side to side or lateral differential movement and it's called a TB (Track Bar). Ford believes reducing the lateral movement is important and they added a front TB some years ago. They must not believe reducing the rear differential lateral movement is important enough to add a rear TB.

I can personally tell you of a good friend who was very close to trading his 27' WBGO Class A until we built him a rear TB. He reports to all our friends in the WBGO club of AR that his RV rides handles 200% better. He can drive relaxed with one hand. It is night and day different.

A commercial rear TB costs in the range of $400 to $500. A DIY one is less than $100 depending on your abilities.

They have been basking in the lime light and the $$$$$$$ since 1999.

If you mean no competition from WH, make that number 2010. If you mean the start of the F53 chassis, make that number 1988.

TeJay · 07-14-2019, 11:42 AM

There is no doubting there were other manufacturers but how big were they as players? As far as when Ford started yes they made the so called F-53 before 1999 but it was in about 1998 1999 they decided to make themselves a bigger player.

Many respond to my posts with positive comments and say they enjoy reading them. They would be longer because I choose to leave out some obvious and maybe less significant information because I thought it was obvious.

When did Ford began to dominate the gas RV industry is anybodies guess. All I know it they have been the only game in town for some time. That's a given based on how slowly they made upgrades.