F53 Vibration issues

[Boondockin]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Is this the TSB you were referring to??

VERY INTERESTING - I was reading through the TSB, I have a vibration that seems to fit the description. Mine happens between about 55 and 60 mph and I would guess its a low frequency (10-30hz). I looked at the drive-train but didn't see anything obvious (i.e. u-joint puking).

I'm looking to see if any of the droid apps can see and record the vibration. I think I'll take a look at the wheel centering described in the TSB and see if this helps

http://1999southwind.com/DOWNLOAD/TS...nce_002109.pdf

Boondockin;

You and I have the same chassis. did you see any vibration before / after you recentered yours with the True-Balance kit?

I assume the 14 x 2.0 (course) are the correct guides for our chassis? Have you run across any less expensive alternatives to the True-Balance guides?

I'm going to bump this up to a high priority for mine.

It smoothed it out tremendously... the balancing beads made a huge difference but it still had a slight shake to it that I just couldn't get ironed out... I even had all three drive shafts trued... and all new u-joints and bearings... still had the slight shake vibration issue...

my friend suggested the Tru-Balance tools... he builds and repairs Semi trucks... He uses them on his truck and his customers... I was shocked at how much of a difference it made... that was the issue the whole time...

I haven't found anything as good as the Tru-Balance tools for less money

I keep mine in our MH incase I have to change a tire out on the road... they are simple to use... a little tough to get the wheels on using them before I figured out how to do it... I'm extremely pleased at the results...

I verified the diameter and thread pitch... mine are 14mm x 2.0mm for sure...

You won't be disappointed... you can see for yourself in TeJay's pictures... the wheels are way off center...

[Waiter21]

GREAT - I didn't connect the vibration issue until I read through this post and in particular the TSB.

I ordered the sleeves, I should have them in a few days. I'll measure my wheel gaps before I remove the wheels to see how far off they are.

[z3406]

I'm a bit confused over which adapter/centering device fits which wheelset. According to my owners manual the wheel nuts on my coach with the 22.5 wheels are M22 x 1.5 and torque to 450 ft lbs. Does anyone have experience with a centering device that will work with the 22.5 wheels?

[Hikerdogs]

As mentioned earlier the problem was the oversized hole in the rim. This allowed the wheel to be tightened off center. The larger the hole in the rim the more off center it could be mounted.


Ford truck garages had similar tools used to align the wheel with the hub. If you're not a DYI person I would contact your nearest Ford Heavy Duty truck dealer to see if they still have the tools to do the job.

[Waiter21]

It looks like SPC has two sizes, one for 14mm and another for 22mm

http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...tering-pin-set

I ordered the 14mm for my 19.5 inch tires

[Boondockin]

Originally Posted by z3406

I'm a bit confused over which adapter/centering device fits which wheelset. According to my owners manual the wheel nuts on my coach with the 22.5 wheels are M22 x 1.5 and torque to 450 ft lbs. Does anyone have experience with a centering device that will work with the 22.5 wheels?

I looked up my wheel lug studs at the local auto parts store to find out exactly what size our motorhome wheel lugs were... then I verified it with a bolt and nut from the hardware store... after that I called Tru-Balance and ordered the reusable tool kit set...

[Boondockin]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

It looks like SPC has two sizes, one for 14mm and another for 22mm

http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...tering-pin-set

I ordered the 14mm for my 19.5 inch tires

What are the torque specs for the 14mm x 2.0mm lug nuts on the 19.5" wheels...?

Do you have a chassis manual for your Motorhome?

[TeJay]

The bolt torque listed on that 1999 - 2001 TSB was 140# for the 19.5" wheels. On the more current 19.5" wheels with the 14-mm X 1.5 threads that torque is 150#.

Noticed that the bolt size on our 2013 10 bolt rim is 14-mm X 1.5 thread. The 8 bolt pattern from 1999 is 14-mm X 2.0 threads. The newer and heavier 22.5" rims use 22-mm X 1.5 threads.

[Waiter21]

Boondock, I bought the 99 manual from Rockauto. Its on a CD and covers a couple other trucks along with the F53

[Boondockin]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Boondock, I bought the 99 manual from Rockauto. Its on a CD and covers a couple other trucks along with the F53

Thanks

[Boondockin]

Originally Posted by TeJay

The bolt torque listed on that 1999 - 2001 TSB was 140# for the 19.5" wheels. On the more current 19.5" wheels with the 14-mm X 1.5 threads that torque is 150#.

Noticed that the bolt size on our 2013 10 bolt rim is 14-mm X 1.5 thread. The 8 bolt pattern from 1999 is 14-mm X 2.0 threads. The newer and heavier 22.5" rims use 22-mm X 1.5 threads.

Thank you

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Waiter21

Is this the TSB you were referring to??

VERY INTERESTING - I was reading through the TSB, I have a vibration that seems to fit the description. Mine happens between about 55 and 60 mph and I would guess its a low frequency (10-30hz). I looked at the drive-train but didn't see anything obvious (i.e. u-joint puking).

I'm looking to see if any of the droid apps can see and record the vibration. I think I'll take a look at the wheel centering described in the TSB and see if this helps

http://1999southwind.com/DOWNLOAD/TS...nce_002109.pdf

Yup, that's the TSB.

I was thinking...if the issue is that the wheel hub diameter is larger than the four indexing flanges on the wheel...and that you can see the difference with a feeler gauge...why couldn't one put the weight on the "top" lug, find the feeler gauge that is snug on the bottom lug, and then replace that feeler gauge with one half the thickness...do the same for the 90 degree pair...then roll the wheel with the two remaining gauges on the bottom...and tighten up the lug nuts? If the lugs are symmetrical, then this should put the wheel in an OK position. Of course the issue would be if the wheel somehow slips once the nuts are tightened and the feeler gauges removed.

[TeJay]

The other option is to get shim stock in increments of .001 and leave the pieces of shim stock in place. Yes they might come out but maybe not. Yes the wheel might shift but maybe not. I'm still thinking of the tapered lugs and just replace three surface fitting lugs with three tapered ones and just torque them down and leave them in place.

Doing the rears presents another problem because the rim metal at the lugs is 3/8" thick. That's somewhat easy as well. Shim the first one and get it close or at least closer than the hub center hub did and shim it. Use the tapered lugs on the outside rim and hope the inner won't move.

Even if you buy the threaded sockets ($180) they come out after torquing. The cheaper non-threaded sockets ($50) also come out. In either case you are still hoping that the now centered rims won't shift.

The difference in using the shims they stay in place but may not always stay in place. Using tapered lugs they stay in place and assure that the rim won't shift.

I realize that using a tapered lug is not one of those right out of the box and it's a done deal. I may have to machine the end of the lugs to fit into the stud hole or make three rim stud holes large enough to allow the 60 degree tapered lugs to fit and center the hub. That's the direction I'm taking. In the long run I think it is assured of keeping the rims centered.

As far as enlarging the holes in the rim. A tapered reamer will do the job and still be centered when done. I'm pretty sure the current hole for the studs is very close to 1/2". I'll move out to 5/8" with a test 3/8" plate and see if I have to go to a 1/16" larger or go out to 3/4" hole. A 3/4" hole would give me 1/8" on each side of the tapered end.

[tizzel]

Originally Posted by TeJay

The other option is to get shim stock in increments of .001 and leave the pieces of shim stock in place. Yes they might come out but maybe not. Yes the wheel might shift but maybe not. I'm still thinking of the tapered lugs and just replace three surface fitting lugs with three tapered ones and just torque them down and leave them in place.

Doing the rears presents another problem because the rim metal at the lugs is 3/8" thick. That's somewhat easy as well. Shim the first one and get it close or at least closer than the hub center hub did and shim it. Use the tapered lugs on the outside rim and hope the inner won't move.

Even if you buy the threaded sockets ($180) they come out after torquing. The cheaper non-threaded sockets ($50) also come out. In either case you are still hoping that the now centered rims won't shift.

The difference in using the shims they stay in place but may not always stay in place. Using tapered lugs they stay in place and assure that the rim won't shift.

I realize that using a tapered lug is not one of those right out of the box and it's a done deal. I may have to machine the end of the lugs to fit into the stud hole or make three rim stud holes large enough to allow the 60 degree tapered lugs to fit and center the hub. That's the direction I'm taking. In the long run I think it is assured of keeping the rims centered.

As far as enlarging the holes in the rim. A tapered reamer will do the job and still be centered when done. I'm pretty sure the current hole for the studs is very close to 1/2". I'll move out to 5/8" with a test 3/8" plate and see if I have to go to a 1/16" larger or go out to 3/4" hole. A 3/4" hole would give me 1/8" on each side of the tapered end.

Tejay take a look at Tru-balance web and find their solution C scroll towards the bottom of the page , they have sleeves for F450 , F550 14mm steer and drive location that you install permanently ,these might interest you .