F53 Vibration issues

[Dav L]

Well, been putzing with the RV today.

I did the feeler gauge trick on the steers and it works perfect.

Took about 5 minutes a wheel.

Tools needed:

1) rag to clean the wheel where the tape goes
2) Blue tape at each centering lug to document
3) Sharpie
4) two feeler gauge sets
5) normal impact / socket for wheel lug nuts

Procedure:
1) Remove the wheel and wire wheel the inside of the rim and the lugs where the rim contacts. Clean the wheel where the tape goes. Snug wheel back in place.
2) put tape on each centering lug
3) measure each lug clearance and document Mine were .008 and 90 degrees away about .005. The other two were .000 and .000 (obviously we know which were up when the lugs were last tightened)
4) Half the ones that have space
5) rotate the tire to where the space was is on the bottom
6) Loosen all lug nuts (just to allow the wheel to slide but not rock)
7) insert the two feeler gauges where they need to be
8) Rotate tire until feeler gauges are both at top and shimmy wheel to ensure it moved into position
9) torque the wheel
10) remove the gauges. This might be snug after you tightened the wheel. Maybe a little grease would help when they are inserted.
11) remeasure all lugs. The two opposed lugs should have same measurement.
12) Enjoy your effort!

I haven't figured out how to balance the inside tires without killing a feeler gauge set...I'll have to buy another couple gauge sets next time at automotive supplier. I'll add them to the RV tool box to ensure I have them each time the wheels get removed.

I don't see the difference between measuring the lugs and using the sleeves. The assumption is that the lug is machined round on a lathe when the hub is made (I am sure it is). And the other assumption is that the wheel hole is concentric with the tire bead.

The sure way to tell is with a dial indicator post the adjustment. I found the dial indicator, now need to figure out a way to measure without the $400 rig I posted about earlier.

[TeJay]

Dav L,

That's a great idea. Don't see how that won't do the job. It's a bit of a guess but maybe it's not. I guess you assumed that setting the two 0 readings to 1/2 of the other reading would get you to a more concentric location.

The real proof is if you had a vibration and that eliminated or at least reduced it. Let us know how it turns out.

Still not an answer for the rears. Give me two weeks and I'll have it.

As far as the lug holes being the way to go for centering I'm fairly certain that will work. The location of the studs is accurate and so should the stud holes. Since currently the f-53 rims are hub centered and not lug centered I'm not sure how close the tolerances for the stud holes are. I'd have to believe that they are very close.

It would seem to me that in the world of manufacturing there's no good reason to not accurately locate them, but that's just another guess.

[dempen]

Originally Posted by dwaugh10

I measured my spare today with a set of calipers. The wheel holes are 0.60 and the Tru-Balance pins are 0.63



David

2013 Vista 27N

David,

I've got a 2011 F53 chassis, which I verified it to have 10 bolt 14mmx1.5 and steel wheels with ~.600 stud hole. Looks like the same set up as you. I called Tru-Bal, and he has a 14mm sleeve, but I believe 2.0 pitch, and .640 diameter sleeve. So, it doesn't appear Tru-Bal will work with newer than 2006 F53 chassis (year Ford upgraded to 1.5 pitch). Do you know if SPC non threaded sleeves would work? I have the same annoying balance problem at 60 mph. I have Centramatics which improved, but not 100%. Or am I stuck with feeler gauge procedure described above?
Dan

[Dav L]

Ride was smooth yesterday. Feeler gauge approach works. Needs a little more dexterity than the stud approach but not bad for zero dollars.

[Waiter21]

The OD on the SPC sleeves was .625

If the hole diameter on your steel rims is .600, then Ford must have tightened this up a little and the sleeves won't work.

I'd say verify the hole diameter just to double check

[TeJay]

That's what I'm kind of getting into. I didn't think the threaded ones from Tru Bal would work and maybe the sleeves would have to be machined. I'll see what I can get done when we get back home.

If somebody has a set of ones that could be machined let me know.

TeJay

[dempen]

Looks like I'm going to use the same process as Dav L, just need to go buy another feeler gauge set!
By the way, Tru Bal said his sleeves would work on stud holes .640 up to .665, on the 14mm stud, which is .551 diameter

[tizzel]

I have the same SPC sleeves a Waiter21 ,my sleeves are egged or oval out of round so measuring the best one .628 - .630 avg = .629 the stud holes in my rims ( 14mm x 2 ) are .645 the sleeves worked good on the rear as they were hard to remove after tightening 6 of the lugs so they should of helped center the rear some but on the front they didn't make a difference as they had zero resistance or pressure on on the sleeves after tightening 6 of the lugs , my front wheels are tight on the HAT'S with only .004 of clearance @ the 6 o'clock position on the hat ,something that might help some of you is if your tires still have the manufacturer red stamp or dot on the side wall and the tire was mounted correctly ( matched marked ) with the red dot ( high side of tire )next to the dimple (low side of rim ) on steel wheels is to try placing this mark @ the 12 o'clock position before tightening the lugs this should help to offset some of the loss @ the HAT's and make the tire seem like it's closer to true center .

[LSC9901]

Finding this information interesting and a bit confusing. First off I am no mechanic so some of this is out of my realm. Initially the TSB targets 1999 - 2001. Has that time frame been updated at all ? I have a 2008 Winnebago Sightseer 30B with a mild vibration from 50 - 55 MPH's. New tires that were re-balanced but still have a small vibration. As they were re-balancing the tire mech showed me that at least one front tire was minimally (his words) out of round and the re-balancing should solve that issue.

I'm all for trying this system but at $180 I'd want some assurance that the sleeves will fit my vehicle. Are there other like systems that can accomplish the same results at a lesser price ? I'm not looking to cheap out but $180 isn't peanuts in my world so if there are others that do the same job for far less I'd be more inclined to want to try them.

[TeJay]

LSC,

Why not try the somewhat simple fix with shims?? That would cost you almost nothing and if it worked OK.

We are calling the 4 tabs of the wheel the HAT. They are taperes slightly and guide the wheel into position. As the pics shown on this thread show that's how we are determining and measuring how much out of round the wheel is running based on this somewhat imperfect system of centering.

The sleeves are what guide the rim around the HAT to a more centered position. With four lugs on the rim snugged up and the HAT positioned so one of the tabs is at 12 O'Clock loosen the lugs so that wheel falls and no measurable space is present a the top.

Now measure the space at the bottom and say it is .010. Now get some shim stock (thin brass sheets) or anything and place .005 at the bottom and then roll the tire 180 degrees, loosen the tire and let it fall to .005 then tighten the lugs.

You have essentially centered the rim 1/2 way between .010 . Do the same with the other two TABs on the HAT. You have essentially centered the rim jkust as the sleeves would do.

Do that on both front tires and drive it. If the vibration is gone then the sleeves will work.

Got to head to church!!!

[Waiter21]

I used the slide on sleeves, they cost about $50. The screw on sleeves cost almost $200.

It seems like Ford changed the diameter of the lug holes on the rims and made them smaller. I'm not sure when they did this, but reports from newer owners seem to indicate they have the smaller diameter hole, and probably do a better job of centering on the hub.

Measure the lug hole diameter on your rims. On my rims (1999) the lug hole diameter is 0.635

I think TeJay said the lug holes on his 2014 are 0.600. The sleeves will not fit on TeJays because the OD of the sleeves is 0.0625.

NOTE - Look at post #81 for the measurements of the sleeves.

I believe the smaller lug diameter helps center the tire more precisely than the tabs. On the older rims, theres just to much play with the larger diameter lug holes.

[Boondockin]

Anyone seen this?

[Waiter21]

I haven't seen this.. Thats a fairly high frequency, 80 - 120 hz. (think what hair clippers sound like, thats 60 hz)

My chassis has three driveshafts, two intermediate bearings. I'll need to look at my maint manual and see how many drive shafts are on the 228 inch chassis.

It says to measure the angle at the engine oil pan rail.

I'm not sure what this is? Also what should this compare to?. i.e level the frame rail, then measure the angle on the oil pan rail.

[Boondockin]

That would be my guess... get the frame level with the weight on the tires... then check the angle at the oil pan rail...