Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-19-2018, 05:38 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Dorsal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 20
Blog Entries: 1
Ford Chassis rear seal leak

I have a 2015 Tiffin 35QBA motorhome (Ford Chassis). After just 12,000 miles the left rear wheel seal starting leaking. The 36 month warranty with Ford had just run out. Has anyone else had this problem?? My service guy in Las Vegas said it is a common problem. Hard to believe after only 12,000 miles this could happen. I will be talking to Ford.
Dorsal is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-19-2018, 05:58 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
A leaking seal if nothing has been worked on before it started leaking is suspicious. I'd pull and inspect the bearing. It could be bad and allow enough movement to trigger the leak.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2018, 01:33 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Citra, Florida
Posts: 1,396
Leaking wheel bearing seals are so rare anymore. How did you find out that there was a problem? Did you see a puddle of something or did your mechanic tell you there was a problem and that was it? I dont know anything about your chassis but I too would call it suspicious.

Good luck and keep us in the loop please.
__________________
Good Luck and keep us posted please. "Q"
1999 Newmar, Mountain Aire 3768, V-10, CAI, Headers.
"Spending our kids inheritance one trip at a time"
Quincy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2018, 07:54 AM   #4
Junior Member
 
Dorsal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 20
Blog Entries: 1
I saw fluid leaking inside the rear inside rim and it had spread out on to the tire before I took it into the shop. The brake pads were also saturated with fluid and need to be replaced. The bill is going to be around $1,600.
Dorsal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2018, 08:43 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 3,400
Well sir, I can't speak directly to the seal issue but since you're having the pads replaced I'd have both sides done so you have a equal fresh pair to wear evenly. Some may disagree but I would. Wouldn't be much more money while up on the rack. But more importantly, since your coach is 3yrs. old with probably original OEM brake fluid, I'd have that entire system flushed and go with new fluid too. Accumulated water condensation in the system is the worst enemy of brake systems, so I don't know if you already planned on doing this or not but I would if I were you. IMO, this fluid change out PM item should be done very 3 yrs. max regardless of how it's driven.

BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
This will really help in all your future posts, so you won't have to type it in each time.
You do this by:
1) Going to the top of this page and click the top left tab named “User CP”
2) Look at the menu on the left and scroll down to “Settings & Options” and click “Edit Signature”
3) In that text box type all the information about your MH, Year, model, length, mileage, any aftermarket extras installed, your toad and so on. You’ll be limited to 3 lines unless you become a IRV2 supporter.
marjoa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 08:24 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Citra, Florida
Posts: 1,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorsal View Post
I saw fluid leaking inside the rear inside rim and it had spread out on to the tire before I took it into the shop. The brake pads were also saturated with fluid and need to be replaced. The bill is going to be around $1,600.
looks like a wheel cylinder then. I dont know if there are rebuild kits for something as heavy duty as that but someone will, be patient and your answer should be forth coming.
__________________
Good Luck and keep us posted please. "Q"
1999 Newmar, Mountain Aire 3768, V-10, CAI, Headers.
"Spending our kids inheritance one trip at a time"
Quincy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 09:45 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
BFlinn181's Avatar
 
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
It does sound like a leaking caliper, it's not hard to tell the difference between 90W gear lube and brake fluid. If the pads are being replaced on one side, they should be done on the other side too. Always do brakes by axle, not side.
__________________

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
BFlinn181 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 02:00 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
hohenwald48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Titusville, FL
Posts: 5,158
Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa View Post
BTW...do yourself and us a favor by putting your MH and Toad information into your signature
All his vehicle info is in his profile. Click his screen name and it will all pop up. Not all posters repeat their profile info in their signature.
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.
2023 Grand Design 2600RB, 2022 F-350 King Ranch tow vehicle, Titusville, FL when not on the road
hohenwald48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 02:53 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,297
"I saw fluid leaking inside the rear inside rim and it had spread out on to the tire before I took it into the shop. The brake pads were also saturated with fluid and need to be replaced. The bill is going to be around $1,600. "

I have a lot of experience working on standard cars and trucks and little working on larger trucks like the F-53 chassis. There are some differences but many similarities as well.

I may be way off base on this thinking. Others can point out my lack of knowledge and that's just fine!!!

You saw a fluid on the rear inside rim that had spread out to the tire. If the seal is leaking and fluid is on the inside rim how is it going to flow up and out to the disc rotor then soak the pads? In my mind that does not seem possible.

How did you know the brake pads were soaked??? Did you see it or did they just tell you??

If the pads were soaked with gear lube then the rotor is also soaked and can not be cleaned. Cast iron is a porous material and the oil will soak into the surface ruining any will compromise and effect the coefficient of friction that should be present when new pads are installed against clean rotors.

I guess it's possible you might have an oil bath wheel bearing set up but if you do you didn't mention it. I've never worked on that type of wheel bearing lubrication system but there should have been a mention of that on the repair order as well. If it leaked all the oil out and got it on the pads it needs to be repaired.

I hope you are not being taken to the cleaners on this repair. Ask to see the ruined pads. They are supposed to show you or at least keep the ruined ones.

When I think back (35 years) to all the student vehicles that I saw and helped diagnose I don't recall ever having a leaking axle seal cause gear oil to soak a disc pad. The location of the axle seal and its proximity to the pads is not usually close enough for it to happen.

Happens a lot with drum brakes but not disc brakes. Anything is possible but that does not jump out as a normal occurrence.

A leaking seal from the caliper will allow brake fluid to get on the pads.
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2018, 03:12 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,317
Wow, what a bunch of guesses.

The inner rear seal can leak gear oil on the brake rotor and then down to the wheel. When you drive it, the oil gets on the pads.

If it was brake fluid, the " Brake " light would be on, because the level would be down in the master cylinder.

To the OP, have you ever gone down a long hill and rode with your foot on the brake pedal ?

The heat build up can damage the seal. Tow/Haul or down shifting can help keep the speed down with out riding the brakes.

There have been cases where fishing line, audio tape and any other thin long material gets wrapped up around the hub and ruins the seal. You may have had loose wheel bearings from new. The spindle may have a bit of rust on the seal surface. Lots of reasons for a seal failure.
twinboat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 08:31 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Citra, Florida
Posts: 1,396
Okay I am going to get run out of RV town on a rail here but here goes. I agree with the words of caution about believing your mechanic. If there is enough differential fluid leakage it can go anywhere due to the spinning wheel. Same with brake fluid. I would not take the rig in and tell him to do anything but repair the leak. Then I would carefully clean all the mess the mechanic leaves on everything and drive the coach. Brake pads and discs are subject to allot of wetness over time and do not fall apart. Unless they have been boiled in the oil they might be fine. (Now dont go all mid evil on me now) Drive the coach carefully and apply the brakes to make sure you dont have any drifting. If not find a safe road and ride the brakes for a little bit and if no issue stop worrying. You can always replace the parts if this dosent work to your satisfaction. The rig is not going to rear up and jump into the ditch with some fluid on the pad or disk and any that was on there was probably burnt off before the problem was noticed. It really is not as big a deal as the responses I am going to get. Money was always an issue with us and not spending it as fast as possible was a mandate. With surplus funds changing out parts might be fine but a little oil on a pad or disk is not likely to be a major issue. Pleas no attacks.
__________________
Good Luck and keep us posted please. "Q"
1999 Newmar, Mountain Aire 3768, V-10, CAI, Headers.
"Spending our kids inheritance one trip at a time"
Quincy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 08:48 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
OLYLEN's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 2,772
I had new brakes with rotors and calipers on my C, the rear ends should be very similar, Cost $750 total. Now if they are in that far cost shouldn't be too much more for a seal. Don't think I would play around with oiled brakes. I would get a second option, that price seems way out there. Post location and someone can give a recommendation.

LEN
__________________
2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
OLYLEN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:10 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quincy View Post
Okay I am going to get run out of RV town on a rail here but here goes. I agree with the words of caution about believing your mechanic. If there is enough differential fluid leakage it can go anywhere due to the spinning wheel. Same with brake fluid. I would not take the rig in and tell him to do anything but repair the leak. Then I would carefully clean all the mess the mechanic leaves on everything and drive the coach. Brake pads and discs are subject to allot of wetness over time and do not fall apart. Unless they have been boiled in the oil they might be fine. (Now dont go all mid evil on me now) Drive the coach carefully and apply the brakes to make sure you dont have any drifting. If not find a safe road and ride the brakes for a little bit and if no issue stop worrying. You can always replace the parts if this dosent work to your satisfaction. The rig is not going to rear up and jump into the ditch with some fluid on the pad or disk and any that was on there was probably burnt off before the problem was noticed. It really is not as big a deal as the responses I am going to get. Money was always an issue with us and not spending it as fast as possible was a mandate. With surplus funds changing out parts might be fine but a little oil on a pad or disk is not likely to be a major issue. Pleas no attacks.
It could work out fine using the old brake pads, but if the pads get grabby, like grease soaked ones do, your back paying the shop again.

For the $80 cost of pads, that need to be pulled to get to the inner seal anyway, I'd throw new ones on.
twinboat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:21 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,317
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLYLEN View Post
I had new brakes with rotors and calipers on my C, the rear ends should be very similar, Cost $750 total. Now if they are in that far cost shouldn't be too much more for a seal. Don't think I would play around with oiled brakes. I would get a second option, that price seems way out there. Post location and someone can give a recommendation.

LEN
You realise that you have to pull the axle, bearing lock nuts, outer bearing and then hubs to even see the seal. Then drive out the old seal, clean everything up and reassemble it correctly.

A class C is like a van or pickup truck. Very inexpensive popular parts.

A class A gets into delivery truck size. The parts prices go way up.

Probably twice the work, on a larger rear axle with more expensive parts, so twice the price, may not be so far off.
twinboat is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
chassis, ford, leak, seal



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Flex Seal vs Leak Seal nmbefgror Gear and Product Discussions 9 03-03-2020 07:45 AM
Rear Seal Leak Bob (WA0MQE) Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 14 08-07-2012 11:30 PM
Rear axle hub seal leak Bigdaddy Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 10 04-14-2008 08:42 AM
Rear Axle Seal Leak - Help Please doko Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 10 09-09-2007 09:16 PM
Rear Axle Seal leak FrontRangeRVer Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 22 05-23-2007 03:08 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.