Ford F53 P0705 on 6.8 V10 Triton

[cbilodeau]

I had the error code P0705 on my ODB-II port.

In my case the problem was not the TRS but the battery. If you discharge your battery completly or the alternator went thru a problem then this code can come out.

So test the voltage at your battery first. If the voltage is not good, erase the error code P0705 and see if it comes back.

J'ai rencontré le code P0705 sur mon Ford F53 1999 6.8 V10 Triton alors que mon voltage était trop bas en raison d'une batterie morte. Le problème est survenu également lorsque mon alternateur a rendu l'âme. Donc un bas voltage peut aussi provoquer cette erreur.

[C-Leigh Racing]

I had a P1406 code come up, down stream hose off, DPFE sensor.
Engine didnt run right at part throttle & had a lean smell to it from the exhaust like one will get from a vacuum leak. Pulled the cover checking the EGR & DPFE sensor, could find nothing wrong with either.
Coach had been sitting like 4~5 months & battery was a bit low, not enough to use the emurge start, but it finely started up.
I erased the code & that problem is gone, so I believe it must have been the battery low & making the PCM mess up, so it is important to maintain that start battery.

Now, next thing, coach is plugged up to shore power all the time parked, why is that battery charge not being maintained.
Neil

[reinerka]

Your shore power is only for the coach batteries and will not charge the chasis at all.

If you are pligged in use a trickke charger to maintainbthe coach battery. Otherwise charge them after longer times sitting around - just to make sure they are up for the task.

Reiner

[jrd48]

Originally Posted by reinerka

Your shore power is only for the coach batteries and will not charge the chasis at all.

If you are pligged in use a trickke charger to maintainbthe coach battery. Otherwise charge them after longer times sitting around - just to make sure they are up for the task.

Reiner

Not completely true. Shore power charges both coach and chassis batteries in my coach. There is an isolation relay which combines both for charging but will isolate them if either one falls below 13.2 volts.. Yours may be different.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Ok Reiner, good point.
What I was thinking, I know when I start the engine, if I've used the coach batterys quite a bit & not plugged up to shore power, they can be down just a bit & in about 5 seconds after the engine starts, the inside lights will brighten up, so I'm thinking the engine is charging the coach batterys while the engine is running.
I have cranked the engine, ran back to the switch panel & watched the 12 volt gauge jump up to full charging as well.
I guess theres something I need to check out, see why that 12 volt charging not getting up to the chassis battery when plugged up.
Thanks, Neil

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by jrd48

Not completely true. Shore power charges both coach and chassis batteries in my coach. There is an isolation relay which combines both for charging but will isolate them if either one falls below 13.2 volts.. Yours may be different.

My 1999 motorhome Pace Arrow Vision also would not charge the Chassis battery went I bought it last year. The documentation says that it should charge when the coach battery is fully charge but it was not the case.

I found the problem: an alarm system expert installed an alarm system many years ago. There was an "cut-off" for the engine in this alarm system. The problem is that the "AUXILIARY START" button could still allow someone to start the engine and by keeping it pressed he could drive the motorhome and steal it. So this expert disconnected a cable in the "Control center box" under the hood so that nobody could start the engine. In fact the RELAY that allow the chassis battery to charge when the coach battery is fully while on shore power is the same that is use for the "AUXILIARY START".

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by C-Leigh Racing

Ok Reiner, good point.
What I was thinking, I know when I start the engine, if I've used the coach batterys quite a bit & not plugged up to shore power, they can be down just a bit & in about 5 seconds after the engine starts, the inside lights will brighten up, so I'm thinking the engine is charging the coach batterys while the engine is running.
I have cranked the engine, ran back to the switch panel & watched the 12 volt gauge jump up to full charging as well.
I guess theres something I need to check out, see why that 12 volt charging not getting up to the chassis battery when plugged up.
Thanks, Neil

You probably know it but I will say it just in case: when the engine is running it is the Engine Aternator that charge both batteries, the coach and the engine.

When on shore, it is the converter 120v to 12v that charge the batteries.

On Ford F53 prior to 2008 (I thin it is 2008) the alternator was a 95 amperes. After 2008 it is an 130 amperes. I changed my burned 95A for a 200A from eBay. It burned because I added a 2000 watts inverter.

BTW, for those having an older motorhome, look if you can add a "Charging Wizard" to your motorhome old converter. Your converter becomes an intelligent charger with this 30$ module. My is a 1999.

[jrd48]

FWIW my 2004 per Ford stripped chasis spec came with a 130 amp/1950 watt alternator.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Originally Posted by cbilodeau

You probably know it but I will say it just in case: when the engine is running it is the Engine Aternator that charge both batteries, the coach and the engine.

When on shore, it is the converter 120v to 12v that charge the batteries.

On Ford F53 prior to 2008 (I thin it is 2008) the alternator was a 95 amperes. After 2008 it is an 130 amperes. I changed my burned 95A for a 200A from eBay. It burned because I added a 2000 watts inverter.

BTW, for those having an older motorhome, look if you can add a "Charging Wizard" to your motorhome old converter. Your converter becomes an intelligent charger with this 30$ module. My is a 1999.

Ok, got that.
About 3 years back, I had to replace the 12V converter & the new one I installed was suppose to have the "Charge Wizard" in the unit. Maybe I need to check it out, make sure one of the fuses not blown on the converter, or maybe something in that big master disconnect box for the coach .
Thanks, Neil

[Sweetbriar]

Battery charging, chassis and house, is going to be dependent on the battery control center (BCC). Mine will go both directions once the primary battery has reached full charge. Alternator will charge the house and AC to DC convertor will charge the chassis. Not all will do the same. Jury is still out concerning if a three stage charger is shortening the life of a maintenance free engine start battery but if a reader has a concern using the chassis battery disconnect, aka salesman switch, the chassis battery will be isolate from the house charging system.

Back to the original question, with the modern computer control power trains a low or weak battery will cause all types of problems and the original post of a transmission range sensor is an excellent example. When codes start showing up start by checking the basic stuff. Oil, coolant, battery, air filter and such. And spend a couple of dollars and get a code reader. Between a code reader, Google, IRV2 and any number of forums you might just save a few $$ with simple problems that are easy to fix.


My 2006 model year chassis has a 110 amp 1650 watt alternator.

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by C-Leigh Racing

Ok, got that.
About 3 years back, I had to replace the 12V converter & the new one I installed was suppose to have the "Charge Wizard" in the unit. Maybe I need to check it out, make sure one of the fuses not blown on the converter, or maybe something in that big master disconnect box for the coach .
Thanks, Neil

My converter has two 30a fuses. One was blowing nearly each month. I replaced this one with a 35a and no more problem. I know it is not recommended but an increase of 12% in the amperes is not a big deal. I buy my fuses on eBay and I get a tons of the them for less than 10$.

If a fuse keep burning, it could be a leak (short circuit somewhere). In my case I have many childrens and we use usb plugs (ligther 12v to usb ports) to charge their phones, 3DS, PS Vita and tablets.

My Power Converter is a Inteli power PD9155. This is part of the Inteli power 9100 series. The charge wizard make this Converter charge the batteries 3 times faster. BTW, this Converter can charge many batteries. So if you motorhome came with only one coach battery and you add some, it should still be able to charge them. In the case you have many batteries, the PD9105 TCMS Charge Wizard is a must. It connects on the TCMS port of the converter, just above the fuses. A battery that use to charge in 12 hours just take 3 to 4 hours.

This PD9105 TCMS Charge Wizard saves me gas on my Onan 55 generator. Why? Because when you start the generator to charge the batteries, the converter receives 120v and it then charges the batteries by producing 12V. If the converter can charge faster then the generator will have to be use for a shorter time.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Originally Posted by cbilodeau

My converter has two 30a fuses. One was blowing nearly each month. I replaced this one with a 35a and no more problem. I know it is not recommended but an increase of 12% in the amperes is not a big deal.

So you have one of the new converters with the Charge Wizard & it blew the fuse ??.
Neil

[cbilodeau]

I bought my OBD-II code reader on eBay for 20$ shipping included.

BTW, on older F53 the OBD-II port is hidden on the right side of the driving column. It is a bit too high and people can not find it easily. In fact the problem is that Ford put it there when they build it but the Motorhome manufacturers forgot to relocate it. So take a flashlight and look for it. Once you have found it, remove the tie-wrap and then relocate it. It has plenty of cable, about 24 inches. The cable is also rool and tie-wrapped, so break the tie-wrap to extend it to its full lenght.

I write all that to save people time. I spent too much time to discover all these things.

[C-Leigh Racing]

Well, Thank you Sir for the tip. Things like this, is what saves us that dont know, a whole lot of head scratching trying to figure something out.
Just like the thread, about an RV making a whine noise around 60 MPH & the other members had the same & found out what it was.
Neil