Community Forums

cb1000rider · 08-22-2013, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adaycj

When (if) I break the bolts or studs used on almost all Ford tanks I drill the hole through into the tank. I drill the 6 mm bolt or stud out with a 6mm bit.

That makes sense, but I knew that I wasn't going to win asking Ford to drill on a gas tank. Even when empty, they can contain fumes and I'm pretty sure the big company policy is going to be "no-no".

I'm with you, if I was at home, I would have lifted the rear as much as I could and dropped the tank myself vs facing a $3600 repair bill... The post is kinda FYI on what to expect and a notification that there apparently are problems particular to these Ford tanks that are showing up with some frequency....

jamesrxx951 · 08-23-2013, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb1000rider

That makes sense, but I knew that I wasn't going to win asking Ford to drill on a gas tank. Even when empty, they can contain fumes and I'm pretty sure the big company policy is going to be "no-no".

I'm with you, if I was at home, I would have lifted the rear as much as I could and dropped the tank myself vs facing a $3600 repair bill... The post is kinda FYI on what to expect and a notification that there apparently are problems particular to these Ford tanks that are showing up with some frequency....

when I repaired threads on a 88 motorhome tank I just filled the tank with water to get rid of the fumes. I cant remember though what I did to repair it but I might have done what the other poster said will drilling the old stud. We have a metal glue here so im sure I used that to seal the tank. But the tank was also sent out for internal treatment due to the excessive rusting in the tank.

cb1000rider · 08-23-2013, 03:04 PM

Yep.. all good ideas, they just won't work with Ford.
Prior gas tanks, we've taken to radiator shops for flushing and internal coating.

However, there seems to be a delamination issue - certainly on the diesel tanks and perhaps impacting the gas tanks too..

jamesrxx951 · 08-23-2013, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb1000rider

Yep.. all good ideas, they just won't work with Ford.
Prior gas tanks, we've taken to radiator shops for flushing and internal coating.

However, there seems to be a delamination issue - certainly on the diesel tanks and perhaps impacting the gas tanks too..

What do you mean by it wont work for Ford? It is no longer under warranty and you had to pay the bill. Im a senior master Ford technician at a Ford dealer and I do what I can do to reliable save customers money. That is why I needed to repair that 88 fuel tank. The customers just did not have the money for a new tank.

Adaycj · 08-23-2013, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb1000rider

That makes sense, but I knew that I wasn't going to win asking Ford to drill on a gas tank. Even when empty, they can contain fumes and I'm pretty sure the big company policy is going to be "no-no".

I'm with you, if I was at home, I would have lifted the rear as much as I could and dropped the tank myself vs facing a $3600 repair bill... The post is kinda FYI on what to expect and a notification that there apparently are problems particular to these Ford tanks that are showing up with some frequency....

Agreed. I was asked. Doesn't matter if it is the dealer or any repair facility, if they don't want to do it, they won't. I'm agreeing here ...

I'm sure you would have done just fine at home. It is obvious you have experience from the language and logial steps in your first post.

As to the other post, many shops will try other cheaper plans if the customer can't pay. Sometimes its bad to cobble, sometimes you can make it a win win. In this case you said no way to $3700, and they came up with the $2000 plan. Fair enough, I get it if they didn't have a tech that wanted to start modifying tanks. Plus, you wouldn't want to be his first try anyway.

When I was a tech I would jump through flaming hoops for most of my customers, but it sure is nice to make a profit most of the time while doing it.

jamesrxx951 · 08-23-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adaycj

Agreed. I was asked. Doesn't matter if it is the dealer or any repair facility, if they don't want to do it, they won't. I'm agreeing here ...

I'm sure you would have done just fine at home. It is obvious you have experience from the language and logial steps in your first post.

As to the other post, many shops will try other cheaper plans if the customer can't pay. Sometimes its bad to cobble, sometimes you can make it a win win. In this case you said no way to $3700, and they came up with the $2000 plan. Fair enough, I get it if they didn't have a tech that wanted to start modifying tanks. Plus, you wouldn't want to be his first try anyway.

When I was a tech I would jump through flaming hoops for most of my customers, but it sure is nice to make a profit most of the time while doing it.

I think part of being a good tech is thinking out of the box to repair issues (safely). The thing that bugs me is the tech broke one bolt and didn't appear to care and continued to break bolts instead of thinking how can I get this nuts off without breaking any more. A tank that new and south of the rust belt we have here should have come off easy. Wire brush to the exposed threads, penetrating oil and hand tools. I would be anything he just grabbed his air or electric impact and just ripped away. That rusted out 88 tank only had one broken stud. That because I took as much care as needed to get it off. The other tanks over the years I never had any issues.

I worked with a few guys that didn't have a care for customers money and had no issues (even thought it was funny) with breaking customers stuff and charging them for it. Glad they no longer work at the dealer any more. I just wonder if that tech said who cares he is a rich guy that owns a motorhome.

keithz29 · 08-24-2013, 10:46 PM

I have a 1997 tank I just pulled out and it definitely does have a coating on the inside of it. The pump assembly can be purchased from Amazon for 300 dollars which is cheaper than I can buy from Ford with an employee discount. The jumper to adapt the early 4 wire pump to the DA pump is not available any more but the only difference is the wire pin position in the connector, so that problem is easily fixed.

jamesrxx951 · 10-07-2013, 10:37 AM

I figured I would bring this thread back to life to help others that may be in the OP's position. This tank is out of a 94 E-chassis van. We live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads and this van is no stranger to rust. Each nut if moved would also start to twist the stud. So I knew my work was cut out. After draining all fuel from the tank, adding some water and water soaked fender covers, and using some heat on each nut with penetrating oil, all nuts came off without a hitch.

So if your in this position, DO NOT let anyone touch your nuts with any power tool. Hand tools only with care. Careful attention to the studs also will be needed.