Ford V10 exhaust manifold studs problem

[JimM68]

I use the silver anti-sieze on just about everything.
And I would replace those stud with the proper length stainless steel bolts.

[Redapple]

Originally Posted by Stump Jumper

According to all of the mechanics that I have talked to, the real problem that is causing the corroding of the studs is dissimilar metals (having a steel stud in an aluminum head). I don't know how you prevent that.

One easy fix is to install stainless steel heavy duty inserts (Keenserts). The Keenserts will not corrode as they are SS, and will be just fine with he carbon steel studs. The problem you may have is dissimilar CTE (Coefficient Thermal Expansion ). The steel will expand slower than the aluminum when exposed to heat, but that should be okay as well.

My advice is to install a set of quality headers. The problem of broken studs will go away, and your engine will breathe better, flow better, and most likely sound cooler.

Good Luck with it.

Bill

[turtlesdove3]

Originally Posted by Stump Jumper

Is there someplace online where I can check the TSB's? My local dealer isn't very helpful.

I bought bolts from ebay but it was of very poor quality so i've stopped ordering online since then, however check on some more sites.

[mikf]

stump jumper, where did you buy your new studs? a few years ago on my 460 the dealer wanted $65 per stud. I asked if that was for a pack of 100 and and he said no, each. went to auto parts store and got all for $18. I was not aware that the v-10 also had that problem. I try to be carefull and let it idle for a few minutes to let it cool down before turning it off.

[Stump Jumper]

I got the new studs from a friend of mine who operates his own service/repair shop. I don't know where he got them from, but I know they weren't $65 a pop!

[INSPECTORBOB]

Below is a photo of the rear passenger stud on my 2000 V10, which I understand is supposed to be the worst one as far as corrosion goes. The mileage is just shy of 15,000. Question is, do I risk opening a can of worms to take these out now, and possibly break them off, or just leave well enough alone? How "bad" does this look??

Thanks,
Bob

IMG_1906.jpg

[Stump Jumper]

On mine, the ones that broke off looked worse than that. The ones that came out without breaking looked about the same or maybe a little worse. I would definitely not mess with it unless you are having a leak problem or something else that needs fixed. The whole drilling and tapping thing is a giant pain the the butt! I am all for preventative maintenance, but if you snap a couple off now, you will be wishing you had just left it alone and dealt with it if/when the time comes.

[ru499]

Sounds like a good time to upgrade to a banks exhaust system (power pak). I am pleased with mine, major power increase and about 1 mpg more.

[ddunk80]

to fix it

DON'T USE AN EASY OUT,they're extremely hard which also makes them brittle. The last several times I attempted to use one they cracked or shattered, leaving behind extremely hard pieces of metal that couldn't be drilled out.
If there's anything left sticking out you could try vise grips, or welding a nut to it. Heat and penetrating oil often helps. If theirs nothing left, try reverse drills, make sure they're centered and straight.






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IBSON DUAL EXTREME CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM, ALUMINIZED STEEL, NATURAL FINISH -- 50-state legal; Gains an average power of 15 to 20 h.p.; 2.5 in. main piping diameter

[fletch460]

As a machinist for 40 years, ddunk has the best solution. Welding a nut heats the head and stud backs right out. Heli arc is the best for me.

[IC2]

The broken stud syndrome on early V10's is more then well documented here:

Broken exhaust studs....time to get at it. Info? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

and here

Yippee!!! Finally broke a manifold stud (or two) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

And in several other errr many posts on this Ford forum

Happy reading and good luck (so far on my V10, no problems - yet)

[rfbelpaso]

Fortunately I have never experienced any problems with exhaust manifold studs. Years ago the Chevrolet 454 was notorious for cracking manifolds and blowing manifold gaskets. I never had any problems with Ford, Dodge or Chevrolet exhaust systems in 27 years of Rving. After coming off the road from a long drive as I stop for gas or any other reason I slow down, turn off the A/C unit at least a mile from my final stop. I then put RV in park and rev the engine up to about two minutes at 2000 RPM's Less rpm for a diesel. Continue at this speed in park until you hear the cooling fan clutch disengage. There will be a significant change in the engine roar as the fan slows down This means all the built up heat has been disappated from the engine compartment.The engine will even start easier with the heat lag on the starter motor reduced. Hope this helps.

[hicksie]

I also discovered several broken studs on out '99 Intruder 6.8 V-10 (22,000 miles), when I worked at the trade fulltime as a licensed mechanic I detested these types of jobs, no matter how careful you are there's always chance for error. Since I would have to do this in the driveway I opted to take it to a very reliable truck repair facility in the area. They replaced the studs with stainless steel as I requested, as well as changed the serpentine belt which has been on the engine since new. It was well worth the $3000 to have peace of mind that I shouldn't encounter problems while on a trip and 3 days from everywhere.

[C-Leigh Racing]

So stainless studs is the answer.
Years ago on some engines, a hard brass type nut was used which would screw off the stud easier & not break the stud off.
Neil