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Old 05-25-2010, 08:31 AM   #1
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Ford V10 exhaust manifold studs problem

I recently purchased a 2000 Bounder with 26k miles. I noticed a slight exhaust tic at the manifold on the passenger side. When I looked under the motorhome, the top exhaust manifold bolt on the rear cylinder was broken off at the manifold. When I touched the lower bolt on the same cylinder, it fell off. I have noticed over the years that many 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 Ford motors seem to have manifold leaks. Is this a common problem with the Fords and is there any type of help available from Ford? Also, is there an easy way to remove the exhaust studs from the aluminum head? It seems that most of the other studs on my motorhome are very corroded and do not want to move which will make repairs difficult.
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:30 PM   #2
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Not sure if this helps but last month when installing my new exhaust I had three studs break off during the removal. I carefully drilled the bolt and used an easy out. I didn't need to rethread the threads. It wouldn't surprise me about them breaking over the years.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:57 PM   #3
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Abnmarine,
Thanks for the advise and thanks for your service!
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:08 PM   #4
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No problem Stump Jumper. If drilling them out, just be careful to stay centered on the broken bolt. That bit will easily go into the aluminum heads.

Thank you!!
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:22 AM   #5
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Stump Jumper,
You didn't state whether the studs are broken below or flush with the head, or are they protruding some. If they have 1/2" or more length protruding from the head, you may be able to use a stud extractor to remove them. Stud extractors come in several different forms. Check with Auto Zone or some other parts store that lends tools, they may have something that will work for you. If the studs are broken below the surface of he head, easy-outs are about your only recourse. Good luck,
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:53 AM   #6
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One is broken off flush with the manifold, so there is a little something to grab onto with a stud extractor. The other is broken off inside the head, so I will have to use an easy out on it. The only nice thing about the whole problem is that the area is easily assessible through the wheel opening. I can't imagine what it would be like working on this under the crammed hood of a truck!
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:01 PM   #7
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I do not remember if it was the V-10, 460 or both but FORD came out with a TSB to oblong the holes in the manifolds on the rear cylinders to stop the bolts from breaking.
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Old 05-26-2010, 02:56 PM   #8
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Is there someplace online where I can check the TSB's? My local dealer isn't very helpful.
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Old 05-26-2010, 03:46 PM   #9
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I know the 460 back in the seventies had that problem and I think they came out with a manifold with oblong holes. I couldn't tell you about the v10. My friend had a late model Mountain aire with v10 and the gas mileage was so bad and he had more trouble, so I never did like them.
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Old 05-27-2010, 06:58 AM   #10
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Before you start to drill I would get a couple new studs and compare the profile with the one still sticking out of the head. You may be able to determine exactly how deep the original stud is in the head. It's very important to drill only the old stud and not get into the head. There's a water passage just behind the threaded hole. If you drill too deep or off to the side you may be replacing a head.

I've read several stories about people who thought drilling and tapping a little deeper into the head would be a good idea. All of those that penetrated the water jacket couldn't get the leak stopped and ended up replacing the head.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:27 AM   #11
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Got the broken studs out and got the new ones in. Everything seems fine. Had to drill and tap 3 of the broken ones, but I was very careful about not drilling too deep. Thanks for all of the advise! It's nice to not hear that annoying tic-tic-tic of the leaking manifold gasket anymore.
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:30 AM   #12
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ok, i have a question for you. do you think painting the studs where they are in the manifold with high temp paint would keep them from rusting out belore their time
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:47 AM   #13
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According to all of the mechanics that I have talked to, the real problem that is causing the corroding of the studs is dissimilar metals (having a steel stud in an aluminum head). I don't know how you prevent that.
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Old 05-28-2010, 11:52 AM   #14
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I would not recommend paint which can cook and make removal impossible w/out herculean effort. Anti-seize is about the best you are going to do IMO.
It would be nice if there were a grade of stainless that would do for exhaust bolts & studs, but doesn't exist to my knowledge.
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