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Old 09-09-2013, 03:59 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by garykk View Post
It sounds like a clutch fan to me if it does not come during an overheat situation. They are cheaper than a new radiator.
A radiator shop can clean it for you, cheaper if you remove it and bring it to them or you can try one of those radiator cleaners available at auto stores , some claim they work great, others say no, I guess it depends on the amount of blockage
One thing to remember about these types of fan clutchs is they need heat from the radiator. If there is a blockage right in front of the clutch where it does not get direct heat, it will not engage. Thus checking for debris that blocks the middle of the radiator or a blockage in the radiator. I check this by getting the cooling system hot and then turn it off. Run your hand across the radiator and feel for cool spots. Not easy on this chassis but in some cases it has to be done.
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:42 PM   #16
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I'm sorry, but I think we all need to stop for a moment and go back to square one.

There has been no verification on actual engine temps. If the sending unit, gauge or wiring are at issue the gauge may read hot but the engine could be well within normal range.

Before throwing money at it, the OP (sclaryusa) should pick up a non-contact temp gun. They are $25 or less at Harbor Foreign or Amazon online. These are must have for any RV'er to check engine, tire, AC temps and a dozen others.

Verify temps at the radiator and thermostat housing, THEN make a decision on the next step.
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #17
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I'm sorry, but I think we all need to stop for a moment and go back to square one.

There has been no verification on actual engine temps. If the sending unit, gauge or wiring are at issue the gauge may read hot but the engine could be well within normal range.

Before throwing money at it, the OP (sclaryusa) should pick up a non-contact temp gun. They are $25 or less at Harbor Foreign or Amazon online. These are must have for any RV'er to check engine, tire, AC temps and a dozen others.

Verify temps at the radiator and thermostat housing, THEN make a decision on the next step.

Agreed, it was mentioned in post 2.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:13 AM   #18
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Let the MH set overnight, start the engine and run it up to around 2000 RPM and hold it there for at least 30 seconds or more. If the fan clutch is good you should hear the noise from the fan at first and slowly get quieter as the clutch fluid gets distributed. If it does not do that replace the clutch. Just my 2$, at least that has always worked for me.

P.S. James know what he is talking about, has helped other with their Ford problems, he works for Ford. There are others here that also work for Ford.

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Old 09-10-2013, 09:52 AM   #19
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Has the coolant been changed? If you change the coolant and go to anything other than the Ford green coolant, you will have problems. In 2000 ford used the green coolant. It coats the cooling system with a solid film. If you change to other coolants, they clean the solid film off and it can stop up the radiator. This is NOT my crazy thought. It is straight from the head engineer at Ford. I talk to him at the Louisville show every year.
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