Community Forums

Wizard · 09-16-2010, 02:16 PM

Anybody have or know where is a diagram of '02 front hub and brake rotor assembly. Thinking about changing pads and rotors and just wanting to know if this is something I can do.

Already have wheels off installing Ride-Rite bags.

subford · 09-16-2010, 05:37 PM

Is this what you wanted?

/

Wizard · 09-17-2010, 06:49 AM

yea, was hoping for a little more breakdown but that is similar to mine. I see a few differences though.

Thanks.

Wizard · 09-17-2010, 05:45 PM

Well I've changed my mind anyway and will probably get someone else to change out the rotors and pads.

John Wayne · 09-17-2010, 09:10 PM

It's an easy job do mine once a year to lube the pins etc. just like a car only heavier. Are you just changing pads? If so just open the bleed screw after putting a drain hose on it. Push the pads back towards the calipers to push the caliper pistons in. take old pads out new pads in tighten bleed screw. Pump brakes before driving done deal. If it's been more then 2 years flush the brake system using ford brake fluid. Lube new pads and sliding surfaces when installing.

Willynojob · 09-18-2010, 06:47 AM

How many miles did you have before changing your front pads and how much wear, % gone?

Hikerdogs · 09-18-2010, 05:14 PM

I changed the pads on our 01 F53 chassis last year with 75,000 miles on the odometer. The fronts had about 25% remaining and the rears were down to 5% remaining.

Willynojob · 09-19-2010, 07:10 AM

Wow Hikerdogs, maybe I'm going to learn something here. It has always been my experience on passenger cars that the front rotors wear twice as fast as the rear rotors. Your post indicated the back rotors wore more that the fronts, is this beause they have never been replaced and the fronts were before or do the back rotors wear more that front on F-53 chassis?

tderonne · 09-19-2010, 10:31 AM

Rears wear more. More weight back there, by double. Yes some weight transfers forward during braking, but the rears still do more work.

Willynojob · 09-19-2010, 12:19 PM

Thank you Tim, I will now check the rear brakes before our next extended trip. The MH has 44K miles so thinking they still have another 25K, I use compression to slow when possible.

Hikerdogs · 09-19-2010, 02:41 PM

Most automobiles are set up for the front brakes to do 70% of the stopping. Motorhomes are 50-50. Since the rear carries more weight (generally double the front axle) they wear faster. We are the original owners of the motorhome and this is the first set of brake pads for both the front and rear.

The pads are available at NAPA under the heading "Ford F53 chassis". The front and rear pads and the calipers are the same. Top of the line semi-metalic pads were $85.00 per axle.

HotMech · 09-19-2010, 08:21 PM

Wizard, It's an easy job. I'm getting ready to do it to mine too.
(we have the same coach)
Put some 6x6 blocks down under the jack legs, and just raise it up with the HWH system.
You're not going to get under it, so no need to block it up and let down the jacks.
Front and rear are the exact same brake, pad, rotor and Caliper.
Rotors just slide off over the studs. the only hard part is the wheels and tires, just a little bit heavy, but otherwise, an easy job.

Do have a torque wrench though. Safety First.

Hikerdogs · 09-20-2010, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HotMech

You're not going to get under it, so no need to block it up and let down the jacks.
Safety First.

I would definately put a set of jack stands under the axle when working on the brakes. You have to get partially under the body to work on the caliper and install the pads. If a hydraulic line broke or the valve failed you'de have a tough time getting out of the way.

Wizard · 09-22-2010, 09:50 AM

Well, I changed the front pads and rotors. WOW. If you are not in pretty good shape physically, pay someone!!

It took about 5 hours one the first side but only 2 hrs on the other. Hardest thing was breaking loose the caliper bolts. Had to use a 4ft pipe on my wrench to break them loose. Ford had used locktite on the bolts.

Mine was not like the image posted by Subford, but close. Hotmech posted that the rotors just slip off over the hub, but not on mine. Had to remove the hub as the rotor is bolted from the back side. While off is a good time to check and/or replace bearings.

Everything went good, just slow. total cost for pads and rotors was $333.91 from NAPA. They had some one rotor in stock but had to order the rest, got them the next morning.

I took pictures but don't know how to post then.

Thanks for the encouragement. Next will be the rears. Twice the heavy tires !!!!!