Fuel Pump Choice

[89sandman]

No I did not change my original post, it got double posted somehow. The quote you have in the above post was my second post. The Haynes. Equis and Chilton obd1 code books i have list no lean bank codes. All three do exclude the 94-95 mustang, t-bird, cougar with the 4.6l and 5.0l. If these cars do list lean bank codes then they are the exception to the rule and you are right. I do not have a book that shows the codes for these vehicles.

[jamesrxx951]

Originally Posted by 89sandman

No I did not change my original post, it got double posted somehow. The quote you have in the above post was my second post. The Haynes. Equis and Chilton obd1 code books i have list no lean bank codes. All three do exclude the 94-95 mustang, t-bird, cougar with the 4.6l and 5.0l. If these cars do list lean bank codes then they are the exception to the rule and you are right. I do not have a book that shows the codes for these vehicles.

I go by the Ford manuals and not some aftermarket books found in a public library, online, or parts store etc. So while I may be wrong from time to time I pretty much try and post as accurate as possible according to the Ford Workshop manual or PCED. There really is no exception to the rule. You were likely finding DTC's related to single O2 sensor systems. By default the lean/rich DTCs will be set for bank 1. OBD2 trucks/Vans are pretty much the only V configuration engines that have a single O2 sensor. I may be off slightly but that is what comes to mind. Without going through all the earlier WSM for different V configuration vehicles it is hard to say what calibrations have lean DTC's for both banks for absolute certainty.

Im glad you posted your sources of the information that you have found as it explains the confusion you had and adds for the corrections to be made. Now what does allude me is information to the earlier EEC systems. There were some computer controlled carbed engines but I have little to no information on those early systems.

[subford]

All OBD-I EEC-IV trucks with California Emissions like the 1995 5.8L had two HO2S and would report bank 1 or 2 lean.

[jamesrxx951]

Originally Posted by subford

All OBD-I EEC-IV trucks with California Emissions like the 1995 5.8L had two HO2S and would report bank 1 or 2 lean.

That I was not aware of but makes perfect sense due to their higher emissions laws. Might have to look that up myself.

[Ted Lambert]

Originally Posted by jamesrxx951

If the sock is plugged up no amount of fuel pumps on the rail will help. If the inlet is plugged, you will not get enough fuel in the fuel system. Before you get to crazy (unless you just want to do preventative maint) I would install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to see where your at. Expect around 32 PSI at idle and over 37 PSI (if I remember correctly) at wide open throttle driving. Checking voltage and ground at the fuel pump will also be necessary to verify the pump is getting everything it needs.

If you do have low pressure and need a pump, be very careful. Some tanks have studs and nuts that hold the fuel pump in. In most cases the studs will break if proper precautions are not followed. They are weak and small. Broken easily. The best way I have removed these nuts without having to charge a customer a few G's for a new tank is to fully drain the fuel from the tank. Partially fill it with water. Get a bunch of wet towels and full cover the tank only leaving the area around the nut to be removed. A good presoak of penetrating oil like Kryoal is a good idea also. However when a single nut is exposed I use a small mini torch and heat up the nut. It don't have to be red hot but really warm. Use a small wrench and wiggle the nut loose. Look closely at the stud. Make sure it is not moving. If it looks like it is going to spin with the nut, heat up the nut some more. Just heat and slight movements of the nut seems to break it free from the stud for me. The oil also tends to get deep in the threads. I have also use the oil, heated it up and cool the nut with the oil. The heat it up again to remove the nut. If this tank has small bolts, use hand tools and also be careful.

Why do you partially fill the tank with water

[cb1000rider]

Probably so you can apply heat to the threads without blowing yourself into the next county...


Ford Mustang 5.0 87-1993 were EEC-IV. 2 banks of 02s. No real knowledge of the truck, but assuming it has 02 you can also tap and monitor them... Easier (IMHO) than dropping a fuel tank.

[jamesrxx951]

Originally Posted by narampa

Why do you partially fill the tank with water

I try to dilute it as much as possible and to try and get rid of fuel vapor. I try and get all fuel out from the tank but you can never be to careful. This method is dangerous in nature but works very well. Plus it saves the customers a few grand. I will also take a clean towel to the inside to remove all the water when done. It is usually a 10-15 min process to clean the tank and make sure there is no water inside. I believe some specialty shops will fill the tanks with an inert gas but I don't have access to that.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by jamesrxx951

I try to dilute it as much as possible and to try and get rid of fuel vapor. I try and get all fuel out from the tank but you can never be to careful. This method is dangerous in nature but works very well. Plus it saves the customers a few grand. I will also take a clean towel to the inside to remove all the water when done. It is usually a 10-15 min process to clean the tank and make sure there is no water inside. I believe some specialty shops will fill the tanks with an inert gas but I don't have access to that.

Drop some dry ice into the tank. Carbon Dioxide is a pretty good inert gas. Plus no water that then has to be mopped up. It's also heavier than air, so it remains in the tank - - until you turn it over.

[chboone]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Drop some dry ice into the tank. Carbon Dioxide is a pretty good inert gas. Plus no water that then has to be mopped up. It's also heavier than air, so it remains in the tank - - until you turn it over.

Very good suggestion Bob, much better and safer then using water.

Chuck

[Ken 77]

ok... want to answer with what I did.... New fuil pump, modern, brakes gone thru & some parts used. 4 new tires, new stairs kit cause failed at dealer, new chasis battery, computer check no codes, transmission leak fixed & fluid & fiter done. new spring & gear for awning, new tag axle brake cylinders replaced... fill with gas & LP....... that most of it... cost $4500 dollars........ off course get home & generator not run right parasitic battery drain flattened new battery.... But we are in much better shape to hit the road.. thanks guys

[Ken 77]

ok... want to answer with what I did.... New fuil pump, modern, brakes gone thru & some parts used. 4 new tires, new stairs kit cause failed at dealer, new chasis battery, computer check no codes, transmission leak fixed & fluid & fiter done. new spring & gear for awning, new tag axle brake cylinders replaced... fill with gas & LP....... that most of it... cost $4500 dollars........ off course get home & generator not run right parasitic battery drain flattened new battery.... But we are in much better shape to hit the road.. thanks guys