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Old 04-24-2019, 05:35 AM   #1
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Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
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Homemade track bar

I just finished making and installing a rear axle track bar on my 1999 Ford F53 Soutwind. I haven't been able to test drive yet, but anticipate an improvement in steering and drive-ability. Total cost - $22

The differential plate is made out of 1/2 inch steel plate. 1/2 x 4 x 17 inches. No bends or welds required. I have a S135 differential

The link is a standard CAT 1 adjustable link from Tractor Supply. I welded the left handed thread end. Length adjustments are made on the other end then locked with a lock nut.

The link clears the speed sensor by about 2 inchs in the normal driving height position. I relocated the brake line mount on the left frame to make sure the brake hose wouldn't rub against the differential plate.

I have a very detailed article with a lot of photos on my web site:

F53 Homemade rear track bar – 1999 Southwind 35S

Top photo shows normal driving position (link is parallel to the axle). Bottom photo shows link when MH jacked up and wheels off the ground..
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:40 AM   #2
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Waiter21,

Excellent article and step by step pictures. With the addition of your build and article we have two of Fords three differentials covered for a DIY rear Track Bar. The Dana 80 used on 18,000 lb chassis and your S135 used on larger chassis. I believe that only leaves one additional differential.

I do have a few questions to consider.

I installed the frame mount on the (right) or passenger side since nothing was in the way that needed moved. Is that why you chose to mount yours on the drivers side?

Was there a reason why you didn't extend both sides of the link a similar distance then weld one side and make your final adjustment with the locking nut on the other?

In all my builds I've plug welded both sides. It does complicate the install a bit but I was concerned with any sleeve thread looseness.

I like your idea of welding one side and using the other to make a final adjustment and using a locking nut. Did you consider using two nuts on the adjustable side for added insurance. Do you think the nut might ever come loose and adding another nut would help to keep it tight?

Your method is a bit easier. It would allow a DIY install by drilling both 3/4" link holes before installing and making the final adjustment with the adjustable end.

If both link ends are going to be welded you have to first install on the frame side, adjust, level and mark the DF plate top location remove the plate then drill the plate 3/4" hole, remove the link finish the welding and drilling then make the final install.

Either method will work fine one is a little more time consuming.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:50 AM   #3
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Quote:
I installed the frame mount on the (right) or passenger side since nothing was in the way that needed moved. Is that why you chose to mount yours on the drivers side?
Yes. Drivers side has to many wires, tubes, hoses in the frame..


Quote:
Was there a reason why you didn't extend both sides of the link a similar distance then weld one side and make your final adjustment with the locking nut on the other?
Yes, clearance around the speed sensor. If I would have made it equal, the fat part of the bar would come close to the sensor when the axle is up against the rubber stop. ALSO - by running the threaded link in to almost the end, it provides a more uniform surface to weld on rather than welding on the threads.


Quote:
Did you consider using two nuts on the adjustable side for added insurance.
Yes, but I don't think it will gain anything, jamming the jam...


Quote:
Do you think the nut might ever come loose and adding another nut would help to keep it tight.
Maybe.. if so, I'll jam it with another nut.



I'll finish up the differential plate template today and get it posted on my site.


..
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:41 AM   #4
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I forgot to mention the use of the metal furnace tape. That's a better way to transfer the hole spacing. Get the surface clean and the tape won't move while hammering the holes in.

I've got a set of metal centering punches. I didn't buy them a friend gave them to me. That helps a bunch when transferring holes drilled through metal. Just find the correct sized punch and it places into the hole and it places a depresion directly in the center of the punch.

The Dana-80 plates requires a lot of grinding to keep away from fillets. Once the plate was flat I transferred the metal template onto a paper template to make an exact model. One of the centering punches 3/8" transferred the exact holes centers onto the paper. When I make another metal one a small prick punch transfers that precisely to metal.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:10 PM   #5
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Here's the track bar I made a couple of years ago for the DANA 80 rear axle.
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