How often do you grease the front end of your F53?
I drive about 2000 to 6000 mi per year on my 2005 National Seabreeze F53 and usually lube the 9 front end zirks once a year. Is that about right? Should I grease them more?
How often do your grease yours?
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John; Karen and "Willow" (the RV cat)
2005 National Seabreeze 1341 F53 V10
2008 Malibu toad " Life is not a Spectator Sport!"
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2013 vista 35f 22000# road master sway bars blue ox brake & tow bar and chassis rear bar koni shocks safeTplus summo front &rear/2006 Honda element awd auto toad/and best friend (wife) as co pilot
I usually grease it before a major trip which figures out to be twice a year. It doesn't take long and doing it frequently means each fitting only needs two or three pumps to purge the old grease.
Every oil change or before a long trip, whichever comes first.
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2002 Fleetwood Fiesta 31H--F53, 2002 Toyota Tacoma Xtra cab, drive line disconnect.
2 cats: "Rusty"--male, 22 lb, 13 year old red mackerel tabby with white DSH, & "Penny"--female, 15 lb, 11 year old black and white DLH.
For my 2006 chassis Ford recommends an interval of 15,000 miles. Lubricating more often only hurts the maintenance budget but grease isn't that expensive as long as you're not paying someone to do the work.
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2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53
Once a year, when I change the oil. This is usually in the spring time when we've returned home and finished traveling for the year. We vacation in the winter and store the MH in the summer.
You have 9 grease points on the front end, most people miss the one on top of the steering box..
Also look at the U-joints, Mine have fittings on them so they get a couple squirts of grease.
At least every 5,000 miles. I have changed oil and greased sooner. Example, if I changed oil and greased chassis 3,000 miles ago then decide to take a 5,000 mile trip I will change oil and grease before the long trip. I don't want the bother or worry of changing oil on the road. I learned the hard way oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
I also do it at every oil change which is overkill but it's peace of mind for me. Every 10,000 kms or 6200 miles.
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Bob and Karen. Retired and enjoying life's journey!
1999 Southwind 35S on a F-53 chassis our first class A
Loving this retirement thing!
While we're on the subject, replace the zerk fitting on the back end of the drag link with a 90 degree one. About a buck at any NAPA store and you no longer have to turn the wheels to get at it.
Grease twice a year. Buy you a pneumatic grease gun. Using a cheap hand held gun will kill your hands and arms.
My greasing procedure
After reading a different post by a fella that worked as a professional heavy truck mechanic, he mentioned to lift the axle some to unload the KingPin (KP) and suspension components before greasing. After clarifing a few things in that post, I realized I have been doing this all wrong and I'm a pretty good mechanic and Millwright by trade and was unaware of this procedure for the KP. But after receiving the advice and reading the procedure manual, it made total sense to me. So I leaped into action and took care of business.
I used my 4 ton bottle jack and lifted one side of the axle at a time. I lifted the axle to where I could see the tire lift—just a little bit—where the load was off. NOTE: The tire was NOT off the ground. I did not use the leveling jacks to do this because of the safety factor.
On my MH, F53 chassis, there are 9 grease points including the hidden one on top of PS unit. I started with the passenger side. I first greased the top fitting of the (KP) then the bottom, then the other fittings. I then released and removed the jack and greased the top and bottom fitting again with a couple, three shots of grease. So I got that baby unloaded and loaded. Then I moved to the drivers side and replicated this process. When I got to the all the steering fittings, I shot grease in with the tires straight, cranked to the right shot in some more, then cranked to the left shot in some more. Had to go into the MH each time and start it up and crank the steering wheel. Insure that all the old grease is pushed out and only new grease remains. I am totally confident now that my front end is well greased, with all new grease and done properly.
Couple of points here:
• The pneumatic grease gun I bought several months ago was one of the best tool purchases I think I have ever made. And I have a ton of tools. Trying to do this with a conventional hand pump grease gun...FORGET IT.
Grease Gun - https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-1162-...tic+grease+gun
Grease - https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Aut...purpose+grease
• I'm attaching the Ford grease point diagram and the full manual that the other OP had pulled a page out of and attached to his post. This manual verifies about the proper procedure for "lifting to unload position"
• I'm also attaching pic's of the equipment I use for your reference
Twice a year. Buy you a pneumatic grease grease gun. Using a cheap hand held gun will kill you.
My greasing procedure
After reading a different post by a fella that worked as a professional heavy truck mechanic, he mentioned to lift the axle some to unload the KingPin (KP) and suspension components before greasing. After clarifing a few things in that post, I realized I have been doing this all wrong and I'm a pretty good mechanic and Millwright by trade and was unaware of this procedure for the KP. But after receiving the advice and reading the procedure manual, it made total sense to me. So I leaped into action and took care of business.
I used my 4 ton bottle jack and lifted one side of the axle at a time. I lifted the axle to where I could see the tire lift—just a little bit—where the load was off. NOTE: The tire was NOT off the ground. I did not use the leveling jacks to do this because of the safety factor.
On my MH, F53 chassis, there are 9 grease points including the hidden one on top of PS unit. I started with the passenger side. I first greased the top fitting of the (KP) then the bottom, then the other fittings. I then released and removed the jack and greased the top and bottom fitting again with a couple, three shots of grease. So I got that baby unloaded and loaded. Then I moved to the drivers side and replicated this process. When I got to the all the steering fittings, I shot grease in with the tires straight, cranked to the right shot in some more, then cranked to the left shot in some more. Had to go into the MH each time and start it up and crank the steering wheel. Insure that all the old grease is pushed out and only new grease remains. I am totally confident now that my front end is well greased, with all new grease and done properly.
Couple of points here:
• The pneumatic grease gun I bought several months ago was one of the best tool purchases I think I have ever made. And I have a ton of tools. Trying to do this with a conventional hand pump grease gun...FORGET IT.
Grease Gun - https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-1162-...tic+grease+gun
Grease - https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Aut...purpose+grease
• Attaching the Ford grease point diagram and the full manual that the other OP had pulled a page out of and attached to his post. This manual verifies about the proper procedure for "lifting to unload position"
• Attaching pic's of the equipment I use for your reference
HMMMM, don't really understand why you would take the "word" of a mechanic over the details in the lube manual you attached.
It specifically state
NOTE:
Do NOT raise the vehicle off the ground during
greasing. If the wheels are off the ground, grease will not pass through the thrust bearing properly. This may cause premature bearing wear and/or failure.
I have failed to find in your posted manuals where it says to raise the vehicle, and you attached the manuals in your response.
Page 12 of the Lubricating manual is where I got the reference to NOT raise the vehicle
Forums are great to pass along information, but I believe passing on information from "my mechanic" and "I've got 20 yrs experience" and "I read it on another forum" is not productive, especially when the "book" says otherwise.
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2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Flat Towing a 82 Jeep CJ7