Improving handling + Stability?

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by TeJay

rayza,

Spending $1,000 to $1,200 for front and rear stabilizer bar upgrades is a lot more $$$$$ than I would spend. Especially if the exact same results can be achieved for as little as ZERO $$$$ with the CHF.

That IMHO a very simple choice but it is your choice.

Ditto. I did the CHF in my yard for free, and the rig was much improved. It still got push around some by passing trucks, and that scared my wife when she was driving it, so I added a track bar to the rear, which solved that problem. We're both very happy driving it.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by TeJay

rayza,

Especially if the exact same results can be achieved for as little as ZERO $$$$ with the CHF.

Sorry TJ now you are stretching the results a moderate amount.
I first did the CHF it helped a good amount.
However there is a very significant improvement Upgrading to RM F & R SB. Not the same results in my book.

[TeJay]

Peter,

Thanks, Now we have the opinion of someone who has tried the CHF and was more satisfied with aftermarket front and rear Road Master SB's. That's good to know. You also have a 24,000 chassis. EDinARK and I both have the 18,000 lb chassis. More than likely that is the major difference that contributed to your results.

Every RV responds differently when suspension MODS are performed. Some have already stated then their F-53 chassis rode and handled fine and didn't need any changes. Others were not so lucky.

You call it, "Stretching the results." I call it a trying a simple upgrade for no $$$. Then you be the judge. If it does not provide the results one is looking for by all means do what is need for handling you want.

Make your choices as you see fit. To not at least try something that costs Zero, well that's not the choice I'd make.

[rayza]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Peter,

Thanks, Now we have the opinion of someone who has tried the CHF and was more satisfied with aftermarket front and rear Road Master SB's. That's good to know. You also have a 24,000 chassis. EDinARK and I both have the 18,000 lb chassis. More than likely that is the major difference that contributed to your results.

Every RV responds differently when suspension MODS are performed. Some have already stated then their F-53 chassis rode and handled fine and didn't need any changes. Others were not so lucky.

You call it, "Stretching the results." I call it a trying a simple upgrade for no $$$. Then you be the judge. If it does not provide the results one is looking for by all means do what is need for handling you want.

Make your choices as you see fit. To not at least try something that costs Zero, well that's not the choice I'd make.

Thanks for everyone's opinions. I think the most valuable thing is to see how it feels first. I absolutely am going to do the Konis as even a 1% improvement in vibration/shudder when hitting crappy roads is worth it. I already have the Safe-T-Plus purchased and going to have it installed. Then I will do the following

1. CHF myself
2. If that doesn't make me happy, then rear trac bar
3. If that dosen't make me happy, then upgraded sway bars F&B
4. If that doesn't make me happy, then Sumo Springs

I imagine that I will be happy at #2 at the very worst.

[TeJay]

Indy Glenn,

"Do sway bars and trac bars take care of roll problems?"

The CHF (free) or new larger diameter Stabilizer Bars (SB) will help a great deal in controlling the roll or SWAY. Do the CHF front and evaluate the ride. Do the rear and evaluate. If you want more SWAY control then new larger diameter SB ($400-$600) will improve the SWAY/Roll. Most when they have new SB added they usually change the front one but just add an additional one to the rear so you will have two. Ask if someone else does the install.

You can add those as you see fit.

The TB or Track Bar only controls lateral or side to side movement. You have a 2017 Baystar unit and I'm assuming it's on the F-53 chassis so you already have a front TB. You would benefit from the additional rear TB ($400-$500) as well. There is a DIY REAR TB thread on these forums if you have the tools and skills. That is usually built for about $50.

Some have reported on these forums they noticed great improvement when the rear TB was added. That improvement is felt in relation to the semi push as they pass you from the left rear.

Somebody recently reported the push and was not sure why some semi's were worse than others. Three major factors. How fast is that wall of air coming towards you and how close is the semi to your rear end??

The third factor is related to the front shape of the semi. Is it designed aerodynamically so it penetrates the air more efficiently and also allows that air to flow more smoothly around its front?? If it is then the wall of air is not as formidable or effective on your RV.

If the semi is just pushing the air inefficiently away from it's front then the wall of air is larger and creates more turbulence's as it pass you which in turn causes you a greater or more violent movement of your RV.

As these semi's approach your rear notice their aerodynamic design and see if you don't notice a pattern. I'm beginning to see one. I've felt a greater push from an empty car hauler. They are usually traveling faster. When a well designed semi tractor passes I usually don't feel much push at all.

[Indy Glenn]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Indy Glenn,

"Do sway bars and trac bars take care of roll problems?"

The CHF (free) or new larger diameter Stabilizer Bars (SB) will help a great deal in controlling the roll or SWAY. Do the CHF front and evaluate the ride. Do the rear and evaluate. If you want more SWAY control then new larger diameter SB ($400-$600) will improve the SWAY/Roll. Most when they have new SB added they usually change the front one but just add an additional one to the rear so you will have two. Ask if someone else does the install.

You can add those as you see fit.

The TB or Track Bar only controls lateral or side to side movement. You have a 2017 Baystar unit and I'm assuming it's on the F-53 chassis so you already have a front TB. You would benefit from the additional rear TB ($400-$500) as well. There is a DIY REAR TB thread on these forums if you have the tools and skills. That is usually built for about $50.

Some have reported on these forums they noticed great improvement when the rear TB was added. That improvement is felt in relation to the semi push as they pass you from the left rear.

Somebody recently reported the push and was not sure why some semi's were worse than others. Three major factors. How fast is that wall of air coming towards you and how close is the semi to your rear end??

The third factor is related to the front shape of the semi. Is it designed aerodynamically so it penetrates the air more efficiently and also allows that air to flow more smoothly around its front?? If it is then the wall of air is not as formidable or effective on your RV.

If the semi is just pushing the air inefficiently away from it's front then the wall of air is larger and creates more turbulence's as it pass you which in turn causes you a greater or more violent movement of your RV.

As these semi's approach your rear notice their aerodynamic design and see if you don't notice a pattern. I'm beginning to see one. I've felt a greater push from an empty car hauler. They are usually traveling faster. When a well designed semi tractor passes I usually don't feel much push at all.

Thanks TJ - - - - appreciate the info.......

Box trucks give me a jolt..........and yes - - thinking about it - - car haulers also......and speed certainly has something to do with it.......

g

[Sweetbriar]

Rather than dropping several thousand dollars in after market bolt on stuff all at once list out all the items you want to try by cost and what each is primarily designed to do. Start with the low cost item first. There will be bleed over as in an item will have some secondary effect. For example a stiffer sway bar will have a primary effect of limit roll but also help somewhat with yaw (wind push or tail wag). Make one change and go drive the coach in different conditions. And not just a Sunday drive but a few thousand miles. If you're still not satisfied do the next item list. May owners stop at proper tire pressure while some give up and trade in on a bus.

My changes -
1. Proper tire pressure
2. CHF
3. Koni shocks
4. Rear track bar

I did add airbags at each axle but the improvement against cost was as well received as my three other changes.

[Peter M]

Another factor to consider when roll is not reduced, the coach tire sidewall is under more stress. Therefore if roll is not greatly reduced you must run more air pressure in the tires. Conversely limiting roll with chassis modifications decreases stress on tire sidewall. Therefore allowing less tire pressure and a much better ride and improved straight line stability.

[DennyR]

With my dp pusher, semi air disturbance was great reduced by Air tabs. The vacuum from the rear of the semi is very powerful.

[ByeTheWay]

The Safe-T-Plus works for 95% of the push when passing a semi head on. Not 100% depending on normal wind direction and speed. I drove an 18 wheeler in college and they get the same effect. Wish I had had a Safe-T-Plus then. I'd try one thing at a time and stop when you get the results your looking for.

[BigHomey]

Originally Posted by TeJay

rayza,

Spending $1,000 to $1,200 for front and rear stabilizer bar upgrades is a lot more $$$$$ than I would spend. Especially if the exact same results can be achieved for as little as ZERO $$$$ with the CHF.

That IMHO a very simple choice but it is your choice.

Anyone that has a 2016> 20.5K> GVWR chassis should be very careful doing the CHF on the rear. Doing so can push the SB up into the Parking Brake Assembly which was moved to the rear differential. It is the reason I went with the RM aux SB on the rear of mine.

AL

[TeJay]

AL,

I have seen pictures of the parking brake drum moved to the rear of the drive line. I never thought the CHF would result in interference with the SB. You're the first owner who has posted that it might cause such an issue.

When employing the CHF adding adjustable plates to the front solved the need to extend/lengthen the links to keep the SB angles closer to level.

I also added rear plates similar to the front adjustable ones so I could adjust the REAR SWAY control. That also allows some raising or lowering of the SB ends to possibly avoid any interference with a rear parking brake housing.

We do not have that problem because we have the 18,000 chassis but it might be an answer.

[STORMY 1]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Peter,

Thanks, Now we have the opinion of someone who has tried the CHF and was more satisfied with aftermarket front and rear Road Master SB's. That's good to know. You also have a 24,000 chassis. EDinARK and I both have the 18,000 lb chassis. More than likely that is the major difference that contributed to your results.

Every RV responds differently when suspension MODS are performed. Some have already stated then their F-53 chassis rode and handled fine and didn't need any changes. Others were not so lucky.

You call it, "Stretching the results." I call it a trying a simple upgrade for no $$$. Then you be the judge. If it does not provide the results one is looking for by all means do what is need for handling you want.

Make your choices as you see fit. To not at least try something that costs Zero, well that's not the choice I'd make.

I have a Newmar BayStar gasser on a 22,000 chassis. I did the Koni’s, the Safe -T- Steer, and the rear track bar.
After all of that, there was tons of improvement in overall handling. But cornering and driveways were still not that great. That said, when I put Tejay’s CHF brackets on the front and did the CHF in the rear. Things like turning sharp corners and driveways improved 60-70%. It’s my feeling that the heavier the chassis, possibly the more you need to play with it. Outside of spending another $2,000 on large front and rear sway bars, I have done just about all of it. It is very improved and what little more I could do, in my mind , would be minimal for the money. Pretty darn happy !!! Listen to TJ and do the CHF first. THEN fine tune it. You have the time to experiment.
Just my opinion.

[DryCreek]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Somebody recently reported the push and was not sure why some semi's were worse than others. Three major factors. How fast is that wall of air coming towards you and how close is the semi to your rear end??

The third factor is related to the front shape of the semi. Is it designed aerodynamically so it penetrates the air more efficiently and also allows that air to flow more smoothly around its front?? If it is then the wall of air is not as formidable or effective on your RV.

If the semi is just pushing the air inefficiently away from it's front then the wall of air is larger and creates more turbulence's as it pass you which in turn causes you a greater or more violent movement of your RV.

As these semi's approach your rear notice their aerodynamic design and see if you don't notice a pattern. I'm beginning to see one. I've felt a greater push from an empty car hauler. They are usually traveling faster. When a well designed semi tractor passes I usually don't feel much push at all.

Originally Posted by Indy Glenn

Thanks TJ - - - - appreciate the info.......

Box trucks give me a jolt..........and yes - - thinking about it - - car haulers also......and speed certainly has something to do with it.......

g

I can tell you the one vehicle that nearly put me in the ditch was not a semi at all! I was shocked when I was passed by a second-generation Dodge Ram 3500 Quadcab, Dually 2 wheel drive! I was doing about 62 on I-20 EB and the speed limit was 75. I think the dually was probably running about 80. I have never felt so much push from a vehicle in my life! Since I've added the rear track bar though, things have gotten so much better. I don't have as many white-knuckle moments as before.