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Old 10-08-2017, 12:14 AM   #141
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If you have a lot of rust in your tank, there is a kit you can get made by Por 15 that works really well.
Happy Glamping.
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Old 10-08-2017, 08:09 AM   #142
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If you have a lot of rust in your tank, there is a kit you can get made by Por 15 that works really well.
Happy Glamping.
This is a very very good information. Many thanks.

I see here they have a kit on the por15.com website. But they don't ship directly to Canada. But amazon.ca sells it.

There are three products necessary. 1 - The degummer. 2 - The rust remover. 3 - The coating.
If I need to rebuild my tank, since it is a big tank I would buy the products not in a kit but separatly. I for sure would need a lot of coating but if there is not too much rust and gum I would buy smaller quantities of those products.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-08-2017, 12:35 PM   #143
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Our MH is a 1999... it sat for seven years before we bought it... I had to replace the carburetor on the generator due to corrosion... when the engine fuel pump died shortly after I was expecting the fuel tank to look horrible inside... to my surprise and relief it looked absolutely perfect inside... shiny and clean! Hope yours does as well!
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:39 PM   #144
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Our MH is a 1999... it sat for seven years before we bought it... I had to replace the carburetor on the generator due to corrosion... when the engine fuel pump died shortly after I was expecting the fuel tank to look horrible inside... to my surprise and relief it looked absolutely perfect inside... shiny and clean! Hope yours does as well!
I read a lot about fuel tanks and pumps in the last days. Here is what I have learned:

1 - If the fuel tank is empty, there is more air so there is more humidity and corrosion.
2 - So it is a good habit to have it full when we store the motorhome for a long period.

I hope I will have the same surprise you had!
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:36 PM   #145
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I drop the tank today after I received the new pump. I have received also the vent but I saw that my tank needs two (one at each end). I don't know if I will order another one, they are 43$Cad.

When I drop the tank I still had 1/4 of fuel in it. I put a car jack in the middle of the tank, I unscrew all the bolts except the two at the back. Then I lower the jack and the other side of tank touched the ground. I then moved the jack at the back, removed the two remaining bolts and lowered the tank completly. I emptied the remaining 1/4 fuel with my generator fuel pump. Now the tank is empty.

PROBLEM:
The surprise I had today is that my bolts for my old pump are different than what I should expect. Normally there are ten bolts that goes on the pump and that screw into the tank. In my case the 10 bolts come out from the tank. So they put the pump over the bolt and they use 10 nuts to hold the tank in place. After so many years, the end of the 10 bolts are rusty and they will all brake.

So tomorrow I will destroy the 10 bolts, remove the pump, then use my drill to remove the 10 broken bolts. I will buy stainless bolts and nuts. I will glue the bolts on the tank with silicone from the inside of the tank. This is not fun at all.

I have made a diagram for the fuel pump harness that goes to the fuel pump. Pompe means pump on the diagram. We test Pompe + and Pompe - for voltage while someone turns the key each 2 seconds from off to ignition.

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Old 10-12-2017, 09:30 AM   #146
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How are you going to keep the bolts from turning as you tighten the nuts?
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:31 AM   #147
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How are you going to keep the bolts from turning as you tighten the nuts?
I will put 3 or 4 drops of "Seal-all" sealant-gasket paste on the bolt (fuel resistant gasket paste). I will insert the bolt and put the nut to hold it in place until it dry enough to hold the bolt. Then I will remove the nuts and put the new Tank sender unit in place. I will screw the nuts with my fingers the more I can. Then I will use a Wise-Grip to hold the tip of the bolt while I will screw the nut with a key.

1 - I am now going at the store to buy some stainless bolts and nuts. I broke 4 out of 6. It is not 10 but 6 on my tank. It was very easy to drill a hole in the old broken bolt remaining body. I was too scared to use heat on the nuts so they broke.

2 - The Vent valve that I bought for 43$ from Rockauto was not identical and could not fit on my gas tank. I had to modify one of the two "Wings" on it with my grinder so that it could fit in.

3 - The old Sender unit and pump seems like brand new. Actually I tested the pump and it seems to work perfectly. The sox had not dirt at all. The inside of the gas tank is like new too and perfectly clean. I suppose one of the two harness connectors going to the gas tank has a problem because I had 12v on the fuse, the relay and the Emergency cutoff switch. I will destroy both and solder and use shrink tubes to repair. There is a third connector that I replaced like this two years ago on this harness but since it was in front of the front tire I told myself back then that the other two connectors should be ok. I should be happy I suppose to have a brand new pump but I have difficulty to be proud of my work after such a bad diagnostic.

4 - The new gasket for the Sender unit is not the same I had and I streched the old one when I removed it. In fac the new gasket is too big and the old one also. I will use the new one anyway between the tank and the pump body and will also use the old one, I will cut it and remove one inch on it and will use Seal-all to patch the cut section. I will try to show a picture tonight.

I have learned that one connector is just behind my gas filter and the other one is just behind my gas tank.
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:39 AM   #148
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Carl, have you thought about making a hole above the fuel pump (in the floor) so you can access it later without removing the tank? Might be something to think about. I have seen that others have done it and just made a cover to fill in the hole. It may not be possible if a wall or something is in the way. Also you may have a tank or something in the way. Just a thought.
Happy Glamping.
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:21 PM   #149
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Carl, have you thought about making a hole above the fuel pump (in the floor) so you can access it later without removing the tank? Might be something to think about. I have seen that others have done it and just made a cover to fill in the hole. It may not be possible if a wall or something is in the way. Also you may have a tank or something in the way. Just a thought.
Happy Glamping.
It is not possible in my case. I see like a bigger tank in size above my fuel tank. I guess it is the gray tank.
But for sure if I could I would. This would be a great improvement.

I installed my stainless steel bolts and nuts. I put a lot of Seal-All scelant above the two big rubber gaskets, on the bolts, in the new holes and everywhere. It will never leak.

If I would do this job again, I would destroy the 6 bolts instead of just 4. They are easy to drill and the new bolts are stainless so they will never degrade.

Ok, now that I have replaced "my good working old pump" by a new one, I have to find how come fuel was not coming out of my tank. I have to find either a leak on the hoses or an electrical leak.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:50 PM   #150
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I could not work today. I will finish the job in the coming days. I suppose finally that my old pump is probably bad. When I tested it directly at the battery it did make noise but it is not a good proof.

I tested the electricity at the harnes directly at the fuel tank and I receive a clear 12.7V.

RECOMMENDATION:

1 - It is not necessary to replace the whole pump assembly because the old one looks like new. Rockauto sell for 22$Cad a new pump.

2- For a big fuel tank 75 gallons, to lower the tank, remove 3/4 of the fuel with the generator pump, put a car jack in the middle of the tank, unscrew all the side bolts that holds the brakets on the F53 frame except the two side lower at the rear. This way you will lower only the front of the tank. When the front is on the ground, unplug the hoses and the harness then move the car jack at the rear of the tank, remove the two remaining bolts and lower the tank. To replace then tank, do the same in reverse order.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:01 PM   #151
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I just did the Eisenhower Tunnel west to east. Early July, very hot 85+, pulling a CRV, oh and heavy traffic. Engine temp was rising and trans temp was stable, 16k, water packed. I was watching for the engine temp to shoot and they did at 11’600, 2014 V10. Pulled over, turned the ac off and unhooked the CRV. cooled down a immediately. Had no power issues at all. Thinking about adding an engine oil cooler.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:42 PM   #152
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I just did the Eisenhower Tunnel west to east. Early July, very hot 85+, pulling a CRV, oh and heavy traffic. Engine temp was rising and trans temp was stable, 16k, water packed. I was watching for the engine temp to shoot and they did at 11’600, 2014 V10. Pulled over, turned the ac off and unhooked the CRV. cooled down a immediately. Had no power issues at all. Thinking about adding an engine oil cooler.
The stock thermostat on my F53 is 195 degree. So this engine likes high temperature. The fan is at full engagement at 211F degrees. What temperature did you notice?
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:39 PM   #153
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My instruments are al to readnin the daylight, soon to be fixed with LEDs and they have no numerical scale. But what happens I’m toolin up the mountain at 65 with the ac and watching the engine temp light it slowly goes up the in a split secon goes all the way shutting down your engine power. I couldn’t it before the war in sounds were made and before the visible alarm went off.n So I’m wondering since I drive these extremes ShoudnI add an engine oil cooler.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:49 AM   #154
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My instruments are al to readnin the daylight, soon to be fixed with LEDs and they have no numerical scale. But what happens I’m toolin up the mountain at 65 with the ac and watching the engine temp light it slowly goes up the in a split secon goes all the way shutting down your engine power. I couldn’t it before the war in sounds were made and before the visible alarm went off.n So I’m wondering since I drive these extremes ShoudnI add an engine oil cooler.
1 - You could buy the bafx 34t5 small scanner for 22$US. You plug it in the OBDII port and on your android phone you will have the temperature of the engine. On Android you can buy the application TORQUE (5$) that goes perfectly with this small scanner.

See this link on amazon.com. In Canada this link for 26$Cad.



2 - When the engine temperature reach between 211 and 220F if the fan does not kick then you need to repair it.

3 - I don't know about the necessity of adding an additionnal engine cooler. When the temperature is very high the fan improves the cooling by a lot and very fast. So before adding a cooler I would make sure that the fan is not enough to lower the temperature.

4 - My F53 1999 manual tells me to shut the AC off when climbing high hills. By experience I see that the transmission temperature is very sensible to the use of the AC. If the temperature is too high, you could also turn on the heating instead of using the AC. It will help.

5 - You could buy for about 8$ a Transmission temperature gauge. I bought on aliexpress.com (takes 40 to 60 days to arrive) a CT-520 sensor (this one is in Celcius sorry). You plug the sensor on the Trans Sender Port. This port is near the shifter of the transmission on the Driver's side. You remove the bolt that is on the port and you put the CT-520. Then you tie the wire up to your driver's area with tie-wraps. See my thread about this.

For the 4R100 transmission the OD light will flash when the trans temp gets about either 275°F or 280°F (135°C or 138°C). It is the light at the end of the shifter arm. Mark Kovalsky says Ford's limits are 220°F (104°C) all day long with no problems. You can go to 250°F (121°C), but don't stay above 220°F (104°C) for more than 1/2 hour at a time. During testing he had transmissions as high as 320°F (160°C) (yes, that says three hundred twenty degrees F.) After testing a tear down showed no damage.

Normally a temperature under 200 F. (93.33C) is safe. Between 200 and 225F (93.33 and 107 °C) it is a warning temperature. Above 225F (107 °celcius) it is too hot. 180°F (82°C) is normal, that's where the trans was designed to run.


6 - I am no expert but I presume that an old engine oil would create more friction. I never wait to change my engine oil because this engine works much harder than on a car. I use Synthetic 5W20 oil, it is very thin and is recommended now by Ford for my engine. I do the same for my transmission oil.

7 - I know that if there is more than 50% coolant in the radiator then the cooling will decrease. So we have to be 50% and not more. The engine coolant need also to be replaced. For the newer model I think it is 5 years or 250000km. For olders models it was 30000 miles and 3 years but if you did the flush with a flusher that respect Ford ESR-M14P7-A then you could go 5 years and 250 000km.
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