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Leak from bottom f A/C compressor
04-04-2010, 04:35 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 27
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I have a 2006 Class A, F53 chassis, V-10.....7K miles with never a leak...Today I noticed a small wet spot on the concrete under the MH...Closer exam and it appears to be ATF, purple in color and is coming from what I believe to be the bottom of the A/C compressor.......Nothing else around is wet at all, just the bottom of what I looks like the compressor.....
It does not appear to be leaking from anywhere above and dripping down, looks like it is coming directly from the bottom of the compressor...
Any ideas on what this might be??......
Steve and Liz
Fallbrook, Ca
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04-04-2010, 04:50 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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The oil in the A/C compressor is a very light grade of oil and is usually clear in color. Some may have added some dye to the system to aid in finding an oil leak.
Use a mild detergent and get all of the dirt and oil off the compressor. Check back in a few days or after use to see if the spot is wet with oil again. You can use a sop paper towel to blot areas until you find the source.
Or take it to an A/C shop and let them leak check the system.
Ken
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Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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04-05-2010, 08:18 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: N. Central AZ
Posts: 210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd1209
I purple in color and is coming from what I believe to be the bottom of the A/C compressor.......Nothing else around is wet at all, just the bottom of what I looks like the compressor...........
Steve and Liz
Fallbrook, Ca
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Are you sure its not the power steering pump. That uses a type of ATF. My 01 had the pump changed under warranty @ 22K miles for leaking. They would both be on the belt, and most likely the compressor would be above the PS pump
Harold
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'01 National RV Tropi-Cal, Ford V10, '01 Suzuki GV 4X4 Blue Ox Tow Bar,300 Watts Solar, 2500 Watt '458' Inverter, NO TVs
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04-05-2010, 09:50 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 27
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Harold--It is not leaking from the power steering pump..I thought that too but the pump area is totally dry...
I took a closer look this morning at it is leaking from a seal at the pulley end at the bottom of the a/c compressor...Very small drips......
I am a decent weekend mechanic but never anything to do with a/c......If I pull of the compressor to take it in, will removing the hoses cause any issues?? Leakage, pressurized??
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04-05-2010, 06:13 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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In order to properly service the system you need to:
1. Flush out the old oil since you do not know how much is in the system since some had leaked out. Your system uses R134a and probably a PAG oil which is compatible with the refrigerant. The oil is distributed through out the system.
2. Replace the oil in the compressor with the proper type and amount.
3. Reinstall the compressor with a new seal and a new clutch bearing since you have it this far apart. Also new o-pings in the hose connections as required.
4. Pressurize the systems and check for leaks
5. Attach a vacuum pump to pull the system into a fairly deep vacuum and also to pull moisture out of it/ Moisture is the enemy of any refrigeration system as it can form acids with the refrigerant and oil.
6. Shut off the vacuum pump and disconnect it. Let the system set for at least an hour and see if the pressure rises. It it rises more than 1 or 2 mm Hg, it is either still wet or there is still a leak.
7. Once you have the system dehydrated and tight, break the vacuum with refrigerant and pressurize the system. Once you are up to 0 psig, go ahead and charge liquid as far as you can....compressor nor running.
8. Start the A/C system with the fan control on high and the temp setting as low as it will go. You may have to jump the low pressure control to keep the compressor clutch engaged. Run the engine at a high idle...1100 RPM and charge refrigerant until you reach the proper operating pressures.
My best advice is to take it to an automotive technician that has the vacuum pump and can do it properly. You can go ahead and change the compressor and clutch...just do not attach the clutch wire until you are ready to run the compressor.
Ken
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Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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04-14-2010, 09:55 PM
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#6
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Member
Monaco Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 50
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I seem to have the same problem with my 2006 F53 V10 chassis with 7800 miles. Took the unit out for a few days to check out the systems and noticed a drip spot with further inspection showing fluid dripping from the front boss behind the pulley...my fluid appears to be fairly clear with a greenish tint.
Without wiping it off I took a digital picture, made a print, and took the print to the local Ford Truck shop here. Mechanic who works on these units looked and was pretty sure it was refrigerant from the AC compressor. Mech said this is a common problem with these compressors.
I managed to get an early appointment day after tomorrow to have it checked out. Mechanic said if it was a seal on the compressor that it would require a new unit. I had the service writer check out my warranty record which did not show my purchase date in Oct. 2007......so when I got home I called the Ford Service number and managed to get my name listed but had to call the Dealer I purchased from who was able to update the purchase date online. The purchase mileage of this unit is also incorrect so I am having to send documentation to the Dealer to get that corrected as well for longterm warranty purposes over the 36 mo. period. All of this so hopefully I get this fixed under the 36 mo. bumper to bumper warranty. This note for anyone who has recently purchased new units to check with Ford's 800 number to be sure you are covered under chassis warranty.
Will come back once I have this checked out to let everyone know what happened to get this fixed.
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2007 Monaco Monarch 30SFS SVE with 2006 Ford V10 Chassis. 2001 Honda CRV Toad
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04-15-2010, 07:26 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
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The refrigerant is colorless and at ambient conditions is a vapor...so if it leaks out as liquid it will very rapidly vaporize. It might be refrigerant oil,
Being green in color, I would suspect engine coolant...antifreeze.
Ken
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Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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04-16-2010, 08:10 PM
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#8
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Member
Monaco Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 50
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Update to my 4/14 post:
Went for appointment with Ford Dealer this morning to have what appeared to be an AC refrigerant oil leak checked out. Mechanic verified the shaft seal leaking AC refigerant oil. Requires a replacement compressor.
They had no compressor in stock. A new compressor is now on order from Ford.
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2007 Monaco Monarch 30SFS SVE with 2006 Ford V10 Chassis. 2001 Honda CRV Toad
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04-16-2010, 10:25 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Vintage RV Owners Club Texas Boomers Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 11,980
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They should be able to pull and replace the seal, unless the compressor has a bearing problem that knocked the seal out.
ken
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Amateur Radio Operator|Practicing for our retirement! 2008 Cameo 35SB3 - 2002 7.3L Crew Cab Dually w/ a SCMT - Max Brake - Travel with one Miniature Schnauzer, one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot
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04-17-2010, 06:28 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Granbury, Texas
Posts: 912
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Our 2007 Hurricane has a 2006 F53 chassis. When in Alaska last September we stopped at the Fairbanks Ford dealer to have our oil changed and the tech told me that we had a small amount of fluid around the compressor. A couple of months ago the compressor went out. I took it to the local Ford dealer and they replaced it under the 3yr/36month warranty. They also had to order a compressor, took 2 days and all is now working fine. When something like a compressor is leaking and it is under factory warranty it is in the best interest of the dealer and the customer to replace the entire compressor and not mess with rebuilding it in the shop!
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Ronnie (WD5GIC) & Jan (WD5IHU)
2003 Monaco Dynasty Countess 42' w/tag, 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid
http://www.ronniesphotos.com
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04-17-2010, 06:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Minnesota
Posts: 614
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Our 2004 F53 chassis V10 has developed the same leak on our compressor. Since we seldom run our dash air, will any harm come if we just continue as is and not replace the compressor?
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04-17-2010, 07:09 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Granbury, Texas
Posts: 912
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Leaking of oil also means loss of freon and eventually the bearing in the pully will freeze due to lack of lubrication.
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Ronnie (WD5GIC) & Jan (WD5IHU)
2003 Monaco Dynasty Countess 42' w/tag, 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid
http://www.ronniesphotos.com
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04-18-2010, 08:14 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Minnesota
Posts: 614
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texnet...Thanks for the info. Does that mean I must replace it so as not to have it throw the belt off and cause more problems?
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04-18-2010, 11:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: The Dungeon in Broomfield, CO
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by becks
texnet...Thanks for the info. Does that mean I must replace it so as not to have it throw the belt off and cause more problems?
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There is no danger of the pulley bearing failing due to low or no refrigerant.
Refrigerant oil lubricates the inside of the compressor. The pulley bearing is on the outside. If you choose not to repair, or recharge the A/C, You will just be turning an idler pulley, no drag no power drain, no problems.
The pulley bearing will eventually fail, they all do at some point.
just replace it, and go on. The compressor is just a mounting point for the pulley, if it is not used for A/C.
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