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Fiesta48 · 01-28-2014, 05:37 PM

My '11 Bounder on a '10 Ford V10 chassis is leaking antifreeze near the rear of the engine. Possibly at the intake manifold. Maybe 1-2 ounces over several days. Has anyone here had this problem?

aschuh53 · 01-28-2014, 05:41 PM

Could be a freeze plug the temp have been harsh.Is your antifreeze good for the temps.

bdpreece · 01-28-2014, 05:53 PM

The first thing I would check would be the freeze plugs (I was taught to call them soft plugs). These are metal plugs a little larger than a silver dollar that are installed in the block (usually about 3 per side) to protect the block from cracking if it freezes. Unfortunately these plugs are subject to corrosion and will develop pin holes. My experience has been that vehicles that are not used heavy have more problems with this than engines that are run every day. Just a guess though since a 2011 engine is pretty new to have this problem.

tderonne · 01-29-2014, 07:47 AM

I'd look at the RV manufacturer installed heater hose lines before I looked for a leaky freeze plug.

jamesrxx951 · 01-29-2014, 04:10 PM

Pull the cover and take a look. There is a heater line in the back (if I remember correctly) that the body builder ties into. I would suspect that as said above. If it is engine related it should be covered under Fords 5/60 warranty.

TeJay · 01-30-2014, 02:36 PM

Calling the block plugs, "Freeze plugs" misrepresents their original intent. They are correctly called block or core plugs. They are access holes used in the block casting process. When the sand is washed from the block these CORE plugs fill those holes.
Why are they called, Freeze Plugs?? When a block is allowed to freeze yes they will usually pop loose or in some cases fall out. Their intent is not to protect the block if it is allowed to freeze. Most often if a block is allowed to freeze much more internal damage occurs and the popped core plugs won't usually protect the block.
I'm not meaning or trying to offend but when misinformation exists it is the nature of the teacher in me to inform.

They are however a source of leaks because they are a thinner metal that can corrode as previously mentioned. Your unit is a 2011 which as mentioned is probably not old enough to result in corrosive coolant causing a core plug to rust and then leak.

I think investigating other sources(as mentioned by James) or areas for a leak would be wise. In past years it was fairly simple to pressurize the cooling system to 15-Lbs (normal operating pressure of the cooling system) with a hand pump which makes it easier to check for coolant leaks. That is more of a problem today because of the pressurized coolant overflow plastic canisters. With the right equipment most any shop can pressurize your system and very easily locate the leak.

TeJay

Fiesta48 · 02-04-2014, 01:22 PM

Finally found the leak. It was a loose coolant hose clamp at the engine right rear near the right back cylinder. Could not see it, until I put my finger on the back of the metal pipe where rubber coolant hose connects to it. Very frustrating. Only leaked after a cold spell, not hot. It even had a good spiral screw hose clamp on it. It's got 2 clamps on it now....

98FPA · 02-05-2014, 07:57 PM

Fiesta48, I too had an A/F leak. I purchased a used 98 Pace Arrow and this winter I noticed a spot on my driveway. It was an A/F leak, same thing apparently a hose clamp (worm gear) had some how loosened up a bit, fortunately I was able to tighten it up too, so far so good. It had not leaked until it turned cold. I've got a leak on the P/S pump too, it also appears to be a loose clamp (return line I think) but it is a little more difficult to get to, maybe when it warms a little (or a lot +2 degrees now). Glad to hear you found your problem.

Have a nice evening.