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Old 08-26-2015, 07:11 PM   #1
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Levelling Jacks

I had trouble last year with the jacks while on Oregon Coast trip; would not go up one day. Fortunately I was able to get the feet off and drive home with the hydraulic cylinders part way down.

Had them fixed in June this year; the hydraulic pump motor was burnt out and it was re-built.

In late June I tried them out and they didn't work - the control looked like a Christmas tree with all the light on. Bottom line was on my five week July trip I didn't dare use them for fear of being stranded.

Took it in yesterday for another fix. They phoned saying the problem was in the chassis - I didn't take the call but my wife made notes: Parking brake sensor not working or something to that effect.

I was going to go to the Ford dealer tomorrow but then realized I'd most surely get better information and help on this forum.

Any takers?

Glenn
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Old 08-26-2015, 09:02 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn NK View Post
I had trouble last year with the jacks while on Oregon Coast trip; would not go up one day. Fortunately I was able to get the feet off and drive home with the hydraulic cylinders part way down.

Had them fixed in June this year; the hydraulic pump motor was burnt out and it was re-built.

In late June I tried them out and they didn't work - the control looked like a Christmas tree with all the light on. Bottom line was on my five week July trip I didn't dare use them for fear of being stranded.

Took it in yesterday for another fix. They phoned saying the problem was in the chassis - I didn't take the call but my wife made notes: Parking brake sensor not working or something to that effect.

I was going to go to the Ford dealer tomorrow but then realized I'd most surely get better information and help on this forum.

Any takers?

Glenn
What brand of hydraulic jacks do you have?

Sounds like whoever fixed you jacks didn't hook everything back up or not right at least. It says they rebuilt the motor but what else did they unhook?

I would ensure you are there for the inspection so you can see if it was something they didn't hookup right/wrong/etc. Could save you a lotta doe.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:44 PM   #3
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What brand of hydraulic jacks do you have?

Sounds like whoever fixed you jacks didn't hook everything back up or not right at least. It says they rebuilt the motor but what else did they unhook?

I would ensure you are there for the inspection so you can see if it was something they didn't hookup right/wrong/etc. Could save you a lotta doe.
When I tried them out after being fixed (see my first post) and they didn't work, I phoned the service manager and explained to him what happened : first time I tried them, Christmas tree lights, second time they worked but didn't dare use them. He said, "bring it back after your trip".

I booked an appointment for 25 August (Tuesday). Picked it up today, and they said it was a Ford chassis problem. OK, the switch activated by the parking brake didn't work (sometimes it will, sometimes it won't) and it was like that two months ago.

Now after two days in the shop, they "discover" it's a chassis problem, not the fault of the leveling jacks.

What bothers me is that they charged me another $200 on top of the $660 for the first "fix".

I said (somewhat angrily): "how is it that the tech couldn't find the problem two months ago, but now he can"?

There's another little twist - the service manager left the company some time when I was on holidays - and of course didn't make any notes about our conversation wherein I reported the problem tow days after they serviced it.

Colour me damn mad.

Glenn
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:24 PM   #4
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Glenn,
Sorry to read about your problems. I would be very mad also, especially since the hydraulic pump has nothing to do with the jacks returning to travel position, jack going up. The pump is only used for lowering the jack's and leveling. Your Power Gear system has a pressure dump solenoid and the jack's have springs to retract the jacks. Power Gear has O&M, troubleshooting, and how to manually open the pressure dump solenoid to retract the jacks in an emergency on their Web site.
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Old 08-28-2015, 08:49 PM   #5
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Glenn,
Sorry to read about your problems. I would be very mad also, especially since the hydraulic pump has nothing to do with the jacks returning to travel position, jack going up. The pump is only used for lowering the jack's and leveling. Your Power Gear system has a pressure dump solenoid and the jack's have springs to retract the jacks. Power Gear has O&M, troubleshooting, and how to manually open the pressure dump solenoid to retract the jacks in an emergency on their Web site.
Chuck:

The "feet" on my rig don't have return springs - they must be lifted hydraulically. That's why I wouldn't take another chance on the system failing when the feet are down. I could not drive anywhere because the feet anchor me to the ground.

The feet have a pivot and a small "dog" sticking out from the top of the feet. When the cylinders retract, the dogs makes contact with the cylinders and the feet flip upward at 90 degrees out of the way.

Glenn
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Chuck:

The "feet" on my rig don't have return springs - they must be lifted hydraulically. That's why I wouldn't take another chance on the system failing when the feet are down. I could not drive anywhere because the feet anchor me to the ground.

The feet have a pivot and a small "dog" sticking out from the top of the feet. When the cylinders retract, the dogs makes contact with the cylinders and the feet flip upward at 90 degrees out of the way.

Glenn
Sorry Glenn, I assumed had you had a Power Gear System like my Dolphin has.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:30 PM   #7
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Found the problem. There is a simple switch activated by the parking brake pedal.

When the switch closes, it permits the leveling system to function. If the brake is not applied and the switch closes, the system will not activate.

I found the switch, but I'd either have to be Plastic Man or take out all the stuff that's behind the instrument panel. I had the instrument panel out today, but there was still a huge amount of wiring and heater ducts to remove. And the switch would still be tough to get at.

The switch consists of a small disk (about 5/16" diameter) on a small rod (like a pancake on a stick). The parking brake lever lets the small disk drop down onto two contacts. The contacts will corrode over time from arcing.

If I'm really stuck, I can remove the instrument panel and stick a screwdriver between the contacts so the system will operate.

Glenn
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:15 PM   #8
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Glad you found your problem.

Hope you can get it fixed without too much R/R wiring.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:41 PM   #9
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Glad you found your problem.

Hope you can get it fixed without too much R/R wiring.
After a bit of thought, one easy option is to extend the two wires connected to the existing switch to the dashboard and use one of the rocker switches on the dashboard - I think one of them isn't being used. Of course I'd have to make sure that the parking brake was on for safety.

Glenn
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:03 AM   #10
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Glenn, Tough fix but you done good. I guess there are more ways to skin a cat.

That does sounds like a crazy way to activate the system. Your idea of running the two wires to a rocker switch would work. Could the wires be run to something like a brake light activation switch and therefore become automatic? I know on our rig the slides will not go out unless the parking brake is on. So they have to activate the system through a switch on the parking brake lever.

If the jacks are down and I start the engine, which they tell you to do so the batteries are being charged when the slides are being brought in or out. If you fail to bring the jacks up and put it into gear (which I know is a really dumb thing) the jacks are automatically activated. Ask me how I know?? Well it was on our first camping, Oh never mind.

We had a 1999 Dutch Star and if I remember correctly when the jacks were down and the engine was started a loud beeper was activated to remind you not to put the vehicle into gear until the jacks were retracted. This newer system is more automatic no beeper but jacks go up if it's put into gear. I guess it's more idiot proof.

TeJay
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:46 AM   #11
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TeJay:

Well it seems to work as is - as long as I have the patience to keep trying until it works. It's intermittent - the contacts are likely burned a bit as I can see the switch close.

But eventually I'll have to address the problem.

Another thought - is there a grease that conducts electricity and isn't too sticky so that it won't hold the contacts together? (the opposite of dielectric grease)?

It could help the current by providing a larger path other than through the burned contact areas. I tried an ignition file on Saturday but there wasn't enough room to get it in to do any good.

Glenn
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:53 PM   #12
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I had a spray can of contact cleaner several years ago. Maybe it worked maybe it didn't. I cleaned a few pots and stopped them from scratching. You know how old the stuff was.

There might be some stuff to use. First thing I thought of was the DG but I guess that won't work according to your comments.

TeJay
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:55 PM   #13
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I had a spray can of contact cleaner several years ago. Maybe it worked maybe it didn't. I cleaned a few pots and stopped them from scratching. You know how old the stuff was.

There might be some stuff to use. First thing I thought of was the DG but I guess that won't work according to your comments.

TeJay
Contact cleaner - that could be something to try.

Darn, why did I put the whole instrument panel back again. Ouch.

Glenn
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:02 PM   #14
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ignition grease, small tube and expensive, used to use it on Porsche's
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