Mobil 1

[legryz]

Originally Posted by ga traveler

Both are 5 weight oils. Both are fully synthetic. The viscosity does not change. 5W20 just means it is a 5 wt oil that has viscosity enhansers that protects like a 20 wt. The difference is advanced has more or different additives. I was lucky enough to go to school on oils. Thank you Delta Air Lines.

They are not 5 weight oil, they are 20weight oil that act like 5 weight oil in cold weather startups.
The 5 is for winter.

[Winemaker2]

Originally Posted by legryz

They are not 5 weight oil, they are 20weight oil that act like 5 weight oil in cold weather startups.
The 5 is for winter.

Can you provide a link that confirms that?

[VanDiemen23]

Google is your friend. a 5W-30 behaves like a 5W when cold (I don't recall the reference temperature) and a 30W when hot.

The cold stuff is pretty obvious, but if you've ever poured 250 deg oil, all of it,whether 20W or 50W, pours pretty much like water. You need lab equipment to see the difference.

Really, the best stuff for most vehicles is a 0W-40. 0W provides almost instant flow at startup. but it's usually pricey, even by M1 standards. That's the german car stuff.

A lot of race cars are running 0W-20 now. Very little HP loss due to pumping, good startup protection, but the motor has to be built with the clearances for it and you have to pay attention to low RPM pressure when hot or BOOM!

[Winemaker2]

Originally Posted by ga traveler

Both are 5 weight oils. Both are fully synthetic. The viscosity does not change. 5W20 just means it is a 5 wt oil that has viscosity enhansers that protects like a 20 wt. The difference is advanced has more or different additives. I was lucky enough to go to school on oils. Thank you Delta Air Lines.

Originally Posted by legryz

They are not 5 weight oil, they are 20weight oil that act like 5 weight oil in cold weather startups.
The 5 is for winter.

I believe ga traveler has this absolutely correct -

Viscosity Index Improvers VIIs act by making an oil viscosity NOT decrease with increasing temp or in other words NOT thin out as much.
Without them the 10 wt oil acts like 10 wt at cold temp but would be like water at elevated (operating) temp.
When the VIIs breakdown - primarily from shear - they lose their property to increase viscosity at higher temps and the oil essentially "thins" and begins to take on more of the base oil (lower viscosity) properties.

VIIs do not prevent heavier wt oils from thickening (increasing viscosity) when cooled

From Viscosity Index Improvers

“VI improvers provide a ‘boost’ to the high-temperature viscosity while having minimal effect on the lube oil viscosity at low temperature."
"HOW DO VI IMPROVERS WORK?
VI improvers act through swelling of the polymer chain as the temperature
rises to offset the decrease in base oil viscosity."


and Multigrade Oils & Viscosity Index Improvers

VISCOSITY INDEX IMPROVERS
"The VI parameter is improved by deliberately adding some chemicals known as additives. Many additives are used in any lubricating oil. One of these additives is VI improvers (VII). These additives are basically organic polymers precisely blended with the base oil to improve the viscosity-temperature characteristics of the lubricant...
These polymer molecules swell in the oil.The increase in viscosity of the polymer is directly dependent on extent of swelling of the polymer by the oil. This swelling increases with the increase in molecular weight of the polymer. These polymers are in the form of a long chain and remain tightly coiled and suspended in the oil at low temperature. As the
temperature increases the coil unfolds, volume increases as a result of
expansion and the oil gradually becomes thick.
This means that thinning effect of the oil is nullified at higher temperature by the addition of VI improvers."

[Indy Glenn]

Originally Posted by TeJay

The best answer is maybe yes and maybe no!!!! Is it worth the extra $$$$ again the same answer. My thinking is if the standard synthetic oil is real good and we all know it is and all the testing says it is as well how much better do we really need???

Back in the mid 70's I read all the reports on Mobil 1 that I could find. After reading nothing but GOOD stuff I believed them switch all my vehicles to it and have never looked back. Mobil 1 is still real good so I have not been proven wrong.

I also have been using Mobil 1 since the mid 70s.

Back then - - there was just one model of Mobil 1 - and initially you could only get it at Mobil stations.

That aside, their tag line back then was "Good for 1 year or 25,000 miles".

I still go with that and just buy the "original"........

g

[TeJay]

Indy,

I remember well the suggested 25,000 mile oil interchange interval. Man (IMHO) was that a mistake for Mobil Oil. I think that set them and the country back 20 years as far as the synthetic oil being accepted for what it is.

No man (not PC, I know) even today believes oil can go 25,000 miles. You might be the only one who does. I believe it can go that long but just don't. That's exactly why I've mentioned to those that have to change their oil even when traveling they really can wait until they get home.

It only took a few years and they backed off from that thought. We have a local trucking company that goes 50,000 miles on their big rigs. They keep the oil topped up with filter changes at every 5,000 miles. That information came from the Service manager who supervises all the work.

[Indy Glenn]

Originally Posted by TeJay

Indy,

I remember well the suggested 25,000 mile oil interchange interval. Man (IMHO) was that a mistake for Mobil Oil. I think that set them and the country back 20 years as far as the synthetic oil being accepted for what it is.

No man (not PC, I know) even today believes oil can go 25,000 miles. You might be the only one who does. I believe it can go that long but just don't. That's exactly why I've mentioned to those that have to change their oil even when traveling they really can wait until they get home.

It only took a few years and they backed off from that thought. We have a local trucking company that goes 50,000 miles on their big rigs. They keep the oil topped up with filter changes at every 5,000 miles. That information came from the Service manager who supervises all the work.

Hey TeJay....

I said it was the tag line, never said I followed either the mileage or the time expectancy - - - LOL But I guess my comment on here would lead one to believe this is what I do or did.....not so!

I guess what I was really thinking was all the different types of Mobil 1 - high mileage - high use - etc.....

So I still buy the "basic" Mobil 1 and it had worked for 40+ years...it's good enough for me.

I remember I had a Chevy Chevette.......I swear Mobile 1 made it go faster......!! LOL

Ah the good ol' innocent days....

g

[vsheetz]

Originally Posted by TeJay

The best answer is maybe yes and maybe no!!!! Is it worth the extra $$$$ again the same answer. My thinking is if the standard synthetic oil is real good and we all know it is and all the testing says it is as well how much better do we really need???

Back in the mid 70's I read all the reports on Mobil 1 that I could find. After reading nothing but GOOD stuff I believed them switch all my vehicles to it and have never looked back. Mobil 1 is still real good so I have not been proven wrong.

Similar experience here.

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by vsheetz

Similar experience here.

Don’t forget your Keds they can make you run faster too.

[VanDiemen23]

You can run M1 for extremely long periods of time. Because it does not burn until above 400 deg F it doesn't dirty itself like dino oil. Because it doesn't get as dirty, it doesn't have as much detergent in it (which keeps the soot suspended in the oil). 20% of dino oil is detergent, and it burns at a much lower temp than the oil itself does, that's why with dino oil you are down a quart at the change - it burned off the 1 quart of detergent that was in with the 4 quarts of oil, and put the ash/soot into the oil which is why its so dirty.

The trick to running M1 for long distances is to have a VERY good filter (over 95% efficiency at 15 microns) and change it every 3-5K, and top off with new oil.

[Prontix]

I know this is kinda heavy for cold weather but, hey, it looks like it was made for this time of year.

[ga traveler]

Originally Posted by VanDiemen23

You can run M1 for extremely long periods of time. Because it does not burn until above 400 deg F it doesn't dirty itself like dino oil. Because it doesn't get as dirty, it doesn't have as much detergent in it (which keeps the soot suspended in the oil). 20% of dino oil is detergent, and it burns at a much lower temp than the oil itself does, that's why with dino oil you are down a quart at the change - it burned off the 1 quart of detergent that was in with the 4 quarts of oil, and put the ash/soot into the oil which is why its so dirty.

The trick to running M1 for long distances is to have a VERY good filter (over 95% efficiency at 15 microns) and change it every 3-5K, and top off with new oil.

Some 18 wheelers run 100,000 miles between oil changes. As you say, the trick is to keep the oil clean, They do it by super filtration. They use 5 micron oil filters.

[guestPacer]

Prontix, use to run Castrol, one because it was less expensive and I was looking for and got sponsorship. Now since I had a factory crate V10 rebuild in my C going with the 5-20 like they used and suggested but with Mobile 1 not a blend.
WDW, sorry to get off topic but I'll agree with other it's the chemical make to help work better in (lets say loser engines)older engine. This brings up a point years ago it was suggest not to change over to synthetic oil if had been running conventional oil because it flowed so well and you would find and discover leaks you never thought you had. could be true or false but look now the high mileage formula hit the market. Oil companies don't want to lose that dollar.

[VanDiemen23]

Not so much that it flowed better, but that it has a tendency to clean out the gunk in older engines. On a lot of engines in the 70s and 80s, the seals were horrible, and gunk build-up on the backside of the seals did more to stop leaks than the seals did. M1 would clean the gunk out, and they would become leakers.

Nowadays the "high mileage" oils have solvents in them that makes today's silicone seals swell so some of the wear-based leakage is slowed.