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Old 07-13-2019, 02:48 PM   #1
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Need ideas, wheel bearing issue

In the process of replacing the calipers, I repacked the front wheel bearings and replaced the inner seal. Bearings and races seemed in good shape on both sides. Left front I put the washer in and tightened the castle nut while spinning the wheel until the nut was tight, probably 15 ft-lbs. Backed off the nut about 1/6th of a turn and installed the cotter pin. Gave it a spin, it went about 2/3 of a revolution before it stopped. Real smooth. Did the same procedure on the right wheel, it started getting real tight for the last 3 or 4 threads. Nut bottomed out at about the number of threads as the left wheel, but it will not spin freely at all, takes a real effort to turn it by hand. This is without the calipers installed yet. Took it off twice and checked everything, short of removing and ruining the $35 seal. I'm stumped. Leaving Thursday for the Silver Lake sand dunes, with 3 day reservations at Yogi Bear campground. Any ideas?

Background: At 86,000 miles I heard what I thought was a water pump squeal so I took it in to the local MH chassis repair shop. They got me for $3500 for replacing both exhaust manifolds which were leaking, which I didn't know were a problem, but I said no on $450 to replace the serpentine belt, idler and tensioner (source of the squeal). And no to $2100 for a full brake job including calipers ("two had melted boots"). So I ordered all the parts from RockAuto.com (emphasizing the dot com) for $550 after returning the core full calipers with brackets. Rotors were in such good shape not one needed turning. Pads were probably 70-80%, only one showed any uneven wear, I didn't see any melted boots. OK parts are here, might as well go ahead. Of course I didn't know how good everything was until I was committed and had two removed. Went to put the last one on and it was the wrong one. Looked ok until I went to bleed it and saw the bleeder was on the bottom. All the rest were good. Did you know RockAuto is 100% internet, there is no one to talk to? No phone number? I love the place, good pricing and tons of part choices, probably 7 or 8 versions of calipers for the F53. But... I did order the right one, paying $20 surcharge to get it Tuesday. And I did figure out how to print a free return FedEx label for the mis-boxed one. Just a little stressed...and looking for a new shop.
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:39 PM   #2
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If say your going to have to pull that inner bearing and take a look.

Try it without the seal, in case its the problem.
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Old 07-13-2019, 07:54 PM   #3
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Verify the seal is seated even with the edge of the hub.. On mine the new seals were about 1/4 inch thicker than the originals, so they stick out farther. I was concerned they might rub but they don't.

There is a torque sequence in the service manual. Its the same sequence I pout on my web site. The final step is to torque to 17 inch lbs (INCH POUNDS, NOT ft lbs) the rotate to next cotter pin hole

F53 Brake pads and wheel bearings – 1999 Southwind 35S


..
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It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:44 PM   #4
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I pulled the wheel one more time, removed the seal and checked the bearing. As twinboat suggested I tried it without the seal and it spun like a top. Why the seal was a causing the problem is a mystery. The old seal was in good shape, the local O'Reilley's didn't have one, the counter guy agreed the old one was is excellent shape, so I put it on. All is now well.
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'02 Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, ours since 4/08,Goodyears, Konis, SeeLevel, CHF
'84 CJ-7 , 5.3 Chevy, 3" lift, 33's, Detroit Locker, Fiberglas tub, winch, hi-lift
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:54 PM   #5
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I also had ordered brake parts for my F53 a couple of years ago from Rockauto.com. They sent me wrong parts also and at that time they took phone calls. They insisted they sent the correct parts so I took pictures and sent them to them. Then they tried to get me to pay the return shipping!
I hadn't learned the lesson yet and ordered some upper control arms for my Dakota. Moog parts made in China. Boots on the ball joints deteriorated in less than 3,000 miles and 4 months. Moog finally replaced them as I got nowhere with Rockauto.com These were made in Taiwan.

Don't buy from Rockauto.com
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:26 PM   #6
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RockAuto will charge shipping on multiple part orders for each part if shipping from separate warehouses.

Depending on the parts this can run up the bill quite a bit pays to shop around.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry1p View Post
RockAuto will charge shipping on multiple part orders for each part if shipping from separate warehouses.

Depending on the parts this can run up the bill quite a bit pays to shop around.
And I pay to return the cores, but you can print a FedEx label from the RockAuto website, they deduct the shipping cost from the core refund. They charged only $6.50 per core to return, one per box, 32.5 pounds each, so that is cheaper than taking them to the UPS store to pay for shipping.

The front rear bearing seal (National brand) was $29.00 at O'Reilly's, RockAuto had the same ones stamped NAK for $9.53. Yes it pays to shop around.
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'02 Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, ours since 4/08,Goodyears, Konis, SeeLevel, CHF
'84 CJ-7 , 5.3 Chevy, 3" lift, 33's, Detroit Locker, Fiberglas tub, winch, hi-lift
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
I also had ordered brake parts for my F53 a couple of years ago from Rockauto.com. They sent me wrong parts also and at that time they took phone calls. They insisted they sent the correct parts so I took pictures and sent them to them. Then they tried to get me to pay the return shipping!
I've never had any problems with returns from Rock Auto. They issue a return postage label. On occasion, if the part cost is low, they'll just issue me a credit for the part and don't want to send it back.

If the item is listed correctly in their books, but is obviously the wrong part, I take photos of their part and the original part that shows obvious fitment problems.

I've also had them ship the wrong item, (part number is different) I take a photo of the box that shows the wrong part number.
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1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S (Ford F53 6.8L V10 275hp 4R100 4 spd trans) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue.
(www.1999Southwind.com)

It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
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