Need to remove rotors '97

[bullsrv]

Doing a front brake service on my 1998 Coachman Santara on a 1997 F53 chassis. Replacing brake fluid, pads, and calipers. Would like to take the rotors off and have them turned. I'm no stranger to brakes but I've never serviced a truck this big. Looks like I would remove the axle grease cap and under it would be straight forward? Just a large nut with a cotter pin? Anyone have an illustrated parts breakdown?

36000 miles on chassis but the brakes have been hot. Went to a campground that was at the bottom of a very, very, very steep and looooonnng grade. Brakes were fading by the time I got to bottom. Had no idea the down grade was that long or steep. Fall Creek Falls in TN. If you go there start down in first gear 0 mph.

Should I replace anything else? Wheel bearing grease?

No shimmy in steering wheel when I apply the brakes but I would still like to reface rotors.

Thanks

[stink]

Some rotors just slip off after removing wheel and caliper. Others, like maybe yours you need to disassemble the front wheel bearings. This can be done by removing center cap, remove cotter pin and remove large nut. The rotor hub assy should just slide off the spindle. Then remove inner seal and wheel bearing. Follow service manual for reassembly as the wheel bearing preload is important. I think yours has the rotors that slide off and no service on the wheel brgs as they are sealed. Hope this helps.

[TeJay]

We had a 1999 RV on the F-53 chassis. That might mean that our chassis was a 1998. However I'm not sure they made a 1998. Any way I did the front bearings on our coach. They were just like any other truck system. The rotors came off with the hub as stink suggested. I don't know of any truck front hubs that are sealed. That does not mean they are not out there.

Remove the caliper, grease cap, cotter pin, adjusting nut, washer, outer bearing, then hub/rotor with inner bearing and seal. Yes pack the bearings by hand unless you have a bearing packer. Always replace the seals.

You said you are familiar with doing brakes. Here's what I did and taught for many years. Always machine the rotors. I always used synthetic grease after I discovered how good synthetics are. I like Amsoil synthetic bearing grease but most any synthetic will work. Don't fill the hub full of grease. All that does is waste the grease and insulate the hub so it can't dissipate the heat. Place a 1/4" layer of grease in the hub to prevent mositure from causing rust. I can give you a step by step procedure how I adjusted the bearings after assembly if you want or need it. PM me if you do.

Get the best pad you can. I always liked NAPA's brake pads. They always seemed up on the latest technology. Check with the dealer on what they might recommend for replacement pads. The technology on pad materials is always changing. What worked 5 or 10 years ago will still work but maybe there's a new compound out there that will work better. Check around with a few truck shops and see what they are using.

In all my years of teaching and servicing vehicles I never had a bearing pack come back to the shop. That's teaching and having the students do it.

TeJay

[bullsrv]

PM sent. Thanks for the replies.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

bullsrv-

I can't help you with brakes, but I can recommend the Mountain Directories:

Mountain Directory for Truckers, RV, and Motorhome Drivers

I used them quite a bit to avoid steep/long grades and hairpin turn routes in Arizona and New Mexico. They have both East and West directories.

Below is a screenshot for a portion of Tennessee; I've highlighted the Falls Creek Falls area with a black circle. Each yellow triangle is tied to a description, such as the one shown in the screenshot for Route 421. In the "real" application (not a screenshot) you can click on a triangle to display the description in the lower window.

I purchased East and West eBooks, for my Windows laptop, for $25.

Mark

[bullsrv]

Jobs done! Thanks everyone!

[Adams Family]

Hi,
I know this is an old thread but I can't find anywhere else anyone discussing this. I have a 97 F53 (460) Coachman Santara. I have removed caliper (uses pins, not bolts) and the grease cap is deep inside the rotor housing.
It looks like a two part rotor as Rock Auto send the rotor itself and not the internal part that houses the bearings, etc. I can see where these are bolted together internally.
Is there a way to get the cap off I'm missing without damaging it? I've tried channel locks, but just cant get good grip. Do I need to do this or am I going too far? There is a dust shield on the back, but that looks like it just protects the front part of the rotor.
Thanks and I hope someone is monitoring this thread.

[TeJay]

Yes these threads are monitored.

A picture of what we are looking at would be nice. I have done or supervised the service of hundreds maybe thousands of front hubs. I have used channel locks to remove the dush cover. A large size one will open wider and then grab the cover on the outside edge. Rocking the channel locks up and down and at the same time pulling on them will usually remove the cover.

In a pinch I've used a small chisels to get somewhat behind the dust cover while tapping the chisel forcing it away from the hub. That can get it to move maybe enough to loosen the cover or at least get another grip on the cover with the channel locks to get it off.

I've not done many larger truck type of front hubs. If Rock auto sent you a separate rotor, your rotor can be removed by taking the bolts off that hold it in place.

The center section or HUB (that's also where the tapered roller bearings are located) and rotor may have to come off together then separated after they are removed.

Please post how this works for you!!!

[Adams Family]

Thanks.
I found youtube video with more general search "rv brake rotor removal" and looked for similar pics. Found one where he described using screwdrivers, etc., but it was the open channel lock to pry it off and popped off easily!
Now on to the dirty work.

Glad I'm doing this as there wasn't a lot of grease in there and it is dirty.

[tiffy2000]

this is a 99 F53 but I'm sure similar, lots of good info here

https://www.1999southwind.com/f53-fr...heel-bearings/