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garys 68 · 12-09-2016, 09:02 AM

So I just picked up a 98 33' Winnebago Cheiftain, 460/E4OD with only 30K miles in pristine condition. I tried to do a little homework on the F53 trouble areas before I bought it and was able to check out most of it. I've already taken care of a few issues but wanted to make sure I've got most of the issues covered before I set out on a longer trip. Let me know your thoughts and anything else I should.

-Engine. Checked for codes (already had an OBDI reader), checked spark voltage (even across all cylinders). Planning on new plugs, wires, belts, check timing. Btw, anyone advance to 12 degrees? Any detonation issues? Eventually headers (covered in another thread) and exhaust.

-Oil/fluid change. Fluids looked cleaner than new, but what about engine oil, any cam issues with low zinc new oils? I use high zinc Rotella in my boats 427 FE flat tappet motors even though spring pressure are only about 70lbs.

-E4OD. Bought a temp gauge and Derale deep sump pan, reusable gasket, filter. Might add a fan to the trans cooler, depending on temps. Just discovered the parking brake reservoir (thanks to this forum), so I'll need to check that. Might consider the Banks tanscontroller, but already getting used to the shift points in the stock setup.

-Cooling. Had a loose radiator drain plug that got me looking into radiators. I've read quite a few threads about the copper/brass replacements not being as good as stock, but what about the Northern all aluminum? Replacement hoses on order. What about the fan clutch. I've heard there are F53 Motorhome specific ones.

-Fuel system. The pump was replaced in the last 10 years. Are the replacements more reliable than stock? Thinking about buying a spare if needed. Fuel filter ordered. Also got a fuel pressure gauge. Might get an aftermarket regulator, heard stock can be off a bit.

-Suspension. Already put new poly sway bar bushings and shocks in. Tire pressure monitors on, will get 4 corner weights and adjust pressures. Tires (235 85 16 E rated) are new, but spare is date code 97, so will replace.
Haven't felt the need for a track bar or steering stabilizer yet.

-Brakes. New hydroboost MC in the last couple years, pads look good. Heard I should check the caliper pins, make sure they slide freely.

-Kohler 5.5kW, gas, 1800rpm. Only issues I've seen are the fuel pumps. Might carry a spare but that's not a breakdown issue. BTW, I've got over 10,000 hrs on my boats 6.5 kW Kohler, so I'm pretty good at genset maintenance.

Anything to add?

ga traveler · 12-09-2016, 11:52 AM

You did not mention belts. I would change belts and change brake fluid. Check that there is a filter before the generator fuel pump. Onan calls for a filter before the fuel pump. Most pumps fail because of trash in the pump.

Nick-B · 12-09-2016, 12:54 PM

+1 on the belts and brake fluid.
Regarding your list, the newer fuel pumps are an improved design. The factory fuel pressure regulators are usually fine but monitoring the pressure under load will tell you if you need to change anything.
Other than that, it looks like you got a real good handle on everything.
Best of luck and enjoy your motorhome!

garys 68 · 12-09-2016, 01:47 PM

Belts are already onboard.
The hydroboost master cylinder was replaced a couple years ago. So I'm sure the system was completely bled with new fluid.

subford · 12-09-2016, 03:10 PM

The E4OD already has a deep pan and the temp gauge goes in the test port on the side of the transmission and not the pan or the transmission lines.
Use only Mercon V transmission fluid.

The 460 can bend valves so I would not advance the timing to 12*.

For motor oil us Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic.

garys 68 · 12-09-2016, 06:32 PM

No issues with leaks on these motors with synthetics?

Quote:

Originally Posted by subford

The E4OD already has a deep pan and the temp gauge goes in the test port on the side of the transmission and not the pan or the transmission lines.
Use only Mercon V transmission fluid.

The 460 can bend valves so I would not advance the timing to 12*.

For motor oil us Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic.

subford · 12-09-2016, 07:50 PM

I have two 460 engine and I use synthetic Mobil 1 5W30 in both.
I have no leaks in either one.

Inthe70s · 12-10-2016, 05:52 AM

Sounds like a solid rig. When I got my '97, I did similar maintenance and upgrades. Sway bar Bushings, belts, hoses, pcv. New 5.1 brake fluid, pack wheel bearings, full tune up with new coil, plugs, wires, etc. I installed the banks power pack exhaust system, new Michelin XPS rib tires, transmission fluid and filter change. Rear differential flush. It rides, drives, runs beautifully. That exhaust, headers, and air intake made all the difference in the world.

After the holidays I plan to change out the water pump, thermostat, master cylinder and maybe the timing chain. Also an alignment. Nothing is wrong but I'm a maintenance freak and believe in being proactive. I believe that these items are original to the coach, which has 60K, and it won't hurt to swap them out. I don't like surprises, plus I like tinkering.

Good luck and keep us posted!

olfart · 12-10-2016, 09:30 AM

With the unit being 19 years old...I didn't see you say anything about changing the brake rubber hoses for each caliper. Also for the rubber hose connection from the frame. These hoses crack and fail over time. It's a Must do. Also the brake fluid flushed with dot 4 fluid. I also pull my calipers every spring and grease the slides. And grease the front king pins the correct way. Two important things - steering & stopping. You can always call somebody for help it if quits running.
I also installed a rear track bar (blue ox). Got a deal on it at an RV show. Made all the difference in driving down the road. And air bags on front suspension.
It's not a race car - so don't drive it like one. If the AC units and furnace haven't aged out yet - they soon will. Also if the TVs haven't been replaced with flat screen - you might want to do that.

garys 68 · 12-10-2016, 11:49 AM

Good suggestion on brake hoses. I've had a deteriorating one on my 68 corvette that caused the caliper to drag. Guessing overheated brakes or hub could be a lot worse on a 17000lb vehicle.
But I'm pretty sure my rig calls for DOT3. I know mixing different brake fluids cause issues, so what's with using DOT4?
Flat screen TV is already hanging over the door.

Patti Jean · 12-10-2016, 02:14 PM

Garys.
Something about renewing an older vehicle always appealed to me. My wife never understood my affinity for my old Mark V that I kept for many years. Bought 2 new pickups but mostly drove the old Mark to work for years. Same with my 99 HR Vacationeer. I learned a lot and enjoyed the maintenance and updates on it. Same with my 81 CB900c and 77 CB 750k Hondas. We were lucky in retirement to be able to afford pretty much what we wanted (newer MH) but really like my older HR. I worked hard on it to update it, and it has never once let us down. You will surely enjoy your new MH. Good luck.

Nick-B · 12-10-2016, 05:14 PM

DOT3 & DOT4 are compatible glycol-based fluids with DOT4 having a slightly higher boiling point.

garys 68 · 12-11-2016, 08:47 AM

Sounds like a good improvement while doing brake lines.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick-B

DOT3 & DOT4 are compatible glycol-based fluids with DOT4 having a slightly higher boiling point.

TeJay · 12-14-2016, 08:51 AM

When those flexible brake hoses fail they usually will deposit tiny particles of rubber throughout the system. Had a student with a blocked proportional valve on one caliper. He called me and told me all that he had done. We both arrived at the same conclusion that it had to be a blockage somewhere in the PV. He blew it out and discovered the rubber blockage.

Most brake fluid mixing issues occur when synthetic fluid (silicone based) is mixed with glycol based fluids.

You've got a good handle and start on most all that needs to be done. Did you mention checking or changing the differential fluid. We had a 1999 F-53 chassis and it came from the factory with a full synthetic gear lube. That was a long time ago and I was pleasantly shocked when I found out abut Ford using synthetic fluid.

Many safe and trouble free miles with the new (refurbished) rig!!!