|
|
06-09-2015, 04:02 AM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
|
Barry, when it comes to technology since it's constantly changing we are all still in the learning process. I learned this yesterday.
In 2004 API changed the quality rating for oils from SL to SM. Then in 2010 it was upgraded from SM to SN. It is still at the SN rating. Not a big deal since every container of oil will have that API designation somewhere on the container. As I told my students yesterday it's almost impossible to not buy the latest SN rated oil.
Some of the more recent changes to oil is the addition of metal particles like zinc & Titanium. These particles coat the internal moving parts to aid in reduction of friction which reduces heat & wear. It also aids in reducing build up of carbon deposits. Phosphorous particles were also added as a cleaning agent to carry impurities to the oil filter.
For some time and one may still find this cheap oil in some of the convenience stores a company I think named, "Eagle Brand Oil" sold some cheap oil at the local convience stores. It was not the latest and greatest of oils.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
06-09-2015, 05:38 AM
|
#30
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 962
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter27C
Well TeJay I never bothered to comment on this earlier because I was getting the feeling that some people on these forums are not interested in learning and are just interested in arguing, so what was the point in me talking the time to spell out the facts of life (oil)!
However I was very impressed with how you summed up the topic. It is pretty much exactly what my take on the topic is, well done.
If I may add to your brilliant summing up it would be oil used to have two main jobs, and that was to keep the metal bits from touching each other and to pull the heat out of the areas that cooling water does not get close too. These days a third has been added and that is to contribute to corporate average fuel consumption, hence the 5w and 0w oils appearing. Fords recommendation of synthetic for the newer V10, I feel should be stuck to, it's cheap enough at Wally World but as the miles go on and the odo starts getting north of 50,000 going a little thicker won't harm especially if you are spending time in the hotter parts of the country.
Back in the day when we were rebuilding engines the view was straight 30 for the first 1000miles to assist bedding in the rings, then the move away from a running in period and just use multi grade from day one. Now synthetic in the engine from new, things change. The one thing you can count on is that the manufacturers will have done a lot of research before making the change, although I accept their agenda may be slightly different from ours!
Pete
|
Amen
|
|
|
06-09-2015, 07:40 AM
|
#31
|
Registered User
Triple E Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,745
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay
The word, "Dyno" is not my term but it is used to refer to non synthetic oil made from decayed dinosaurs and primordial forest vegetation.
As far as switching back and forth from dyno to synthetic I recently read this: "Never change a high-mileage engine over to full synthetic oil that does not contain metal additives. New synthetics that do not contain metal additives can actually wash old metal additives off metal surfaces, resulting in rapid part wear, especially at the camshaft lobes and piston rings."
That's a quote from a GW 2014 publication James E. Duffy Author "Modern Automotive Technology"
I do remember being told when synthetics first came out to not switch until an engine had 5K-10K miles on it. The reason was since the oil reduced friction so much there was concern that the rings wouldn't seat properly.
Other than that I can't understand why one couldn't switch from dyno to synthetics and back. There may be a good reason other than the metal particles but I can't think of one. Anyway if i switched to synthetics I would have no reason to switch back.
Referring to one company making grease and then packaged with different names that's about the same with fuel. There will be many different tanker trucks lined up to fill up and most have different company names on their tankers but they all get their fuel from the same supply. I do understand that additives may be added at a different time so it may then become unique to one fuel supplier.
TeJay
|
TJ
One thing I neglected to mention in my previous post was the company we were dealing with said they blended additives to specific specifications to the different brands. However I remember asking if the differences were significant the answer was they did not very much.
The one fellow said it was because the engine manufactures set the standards for the requirements. Lubrication manufactures had no choice but to follow suite if they were to be successful.
|
|
|
06-09-2015, 06:52 PM
|
#32
|
Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,793
|
If you have some time for a bit of lite reading Blackstone Labs did some testing on oils from years back they found on eBay along with other oil based info in their newsletters.
Blackstone Labs
|
|
|
06-10-2015, 08:28 PM
|
#33
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 315
|
My 2000 Ford F53 manual calls for 5W30 motor oil and not 5W20. I use either Castrol or Valvoline High Mileage which is a synthetic blend motor oil.
__________________
Nathan and Linda, 2000 Winnebago Chieftain 35U, F53 Chassis, Banks Power Pack
|
|
|
06-11-2015, 05:59 AM
|
#34
|
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
|
That's correct. Ford changed the V-10 in 2006 and went to the 3-valve per cylinder design with more HP and torque as well as a 5 speed transmission. That's probably when they switched to the 5W-20 weight oil.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
|
|
|
06-11-2015, 03:59 PM
|
#35
|
Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 181
|
I have settled on Castrol Edge full synthetic 5w-30 for my 2011 Ford v10. I would like to use it my Onan 5.5 as well, but I am over thinking it. I also use it in my toad Kia Soul.
|
|
|
06-11-2015, 07:56 PM
|
#36
|
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
|
As stated earlier the oils do have to meet API and SAE current standards of the SN designation. In the scheme of things there's probably not a significant increase in engine longevity from Dino oils to synthetics. At least I've not read any real studies that prove it. I do know that full synthetics will reduce engine oil heat and also significantly reduce friction. That has to increase the engine life and may contribute to some fuel economy but it's hard to speculate. We will probably not outlive our MH engines.
For the slight increased cost of full synthetics I still like them and will treat my mechanical devices with the best lubricants. I also run my engines around 8,000 miles between oil changes. I will send a sample of oil into Blackstone labs for a good analysis. If I run say 10,000 miles they can tell me if the oil is still good or it's been worn out. If the latter happens then I'll change it sooner.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 05:19 AM
|
#37
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 377
|
UPDATE
Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v
I have a 2000 F-53 Ford Chassis with a 6.8L V-10 with 48,800 miles.
I have been using Brad Penn Conventional Oil 10W-30 with a NAPA Gold filter.
I am going to change my oil this summer in preparation for our fall trip to Florida.
QUESTION:
I am strongly considering switching to either a Semi-synthetic OR a Full Synthetic oil.
What do you actual users recommend and what might be the Pros / Cons associated with the switch?
I am looking at the Semi-Synthetic as a logical intermediate decision with better lubrication benefits than Conventional oil.
This IS a high revving engine and I want the best protection that fits my application. (I prefer to go up hills not exceeding 4,000 RPM and suffer a little slower accent that to go a little faster w/ higher RPM's.)
Thanks for the time and advice.
|
OK, As expected, this post has included many professional, technical, real life responses to my question.
Thank You all for your time and effort. This kind of response and interest is invaluable.
SO, here's where I ended up.
After consideration of all of the personal experiences and explanations of oil flow and coating characteristics, engine requirements, etc., I have ordered in a case of 12 qts of Brad Penn Synthetic Blend 5W-30 oil (#7143).
I believe this satisfies the developing engineer's requirement for the 2000 year build V-10 design (as opposed to the redesigned V-10... around 2005) and should compliment my moderate driving habits very well.
Just picked up a NAPA Gold oil filter and expect to change my oil soon.
Thanks, again.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, V-10
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7L V-8 QTII
U. S. Army Vet, In God We Trust
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 06:46 AM
|
#38
|
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
|
There's something else that nobody mentioned. If you are going to do your own oil changes getting the Futomo brass quick release valve is neat. It is a lot cleaner because you can fit a 1/2" ID hose over the end and direct and drain the 6-7 quarts of oil right into a container without the oil hitting the axle or spilling at all.
You still have to deal with the filter but somebody here mentioned putting a small plastic bag (but one large enough to hold some oil and the filter) so none of that oil get out either. After all my years of changing oil I never thought of doing that.
There are some plastic zip-Lock bags that are a bit stronger than store carry out bags that would work great. I've even gotten some much thicker but smaller carry out bags that would work as well. I just can't remember where I got them. The next time a store uses one of them I'm going to ask for a few extra.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 08:45 AM
|
#39
|
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 69
|
I tried the plastic bag thing over the filter and I still made a mess, I guess it takes a little finess.
X2 On the Futomo value, I put one on the last change, no more messes.
__________________
Dan & Moxie (Yellow Lab)
2010 Newmar, Canyon Star 3647 (5-Star Tune, CHF), 2012 Wrangler Sahara Toad
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 01:20 PM
|
#40
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Pond Piggies Club Appalachian Campers Mid Atlantic Campers
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 4,671
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay
If you are going to do your own oil changes getting the Futomo brass quick release valve is neat. It is a lot cleaner because you can fit a 1/2" ID hose over the end and direct and drain the 6-7 quarts of oil right into a container without the oil hitting the axle or spilling at all.
|
I was always concerned that road debris/trash would kick up and break a brass valve, thus losing all the oil. Odds are probably slim to none, but it could happen.
-Tom
__________________
Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2013 Honda Accord EX-L · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 04:18 PM
|
#41
|
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
|
That issue has been raised before. My valve is well covered. I'd have to hit a RR tie before much of anything would hit the Futomo valve. If I hit a RR tie I do believe I'll stop and check out everything. Until then I'll use the Futomo valve.
Sometimes a person can, "What if" ones self to oblivion. I don't live that way. Evaluate the risk versus the reward and go with what ever pleases you not what pleases me.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
|
|
|
06-12-2015, 09:40 PM
|
#42
|
Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 139
|
The oil drain plug on my previous coach, a DP, was very exposed, so I was reluctant to switch to a Fumoto. Instead, after lots of searching, I found https://www.nospillsystems.com/ which had no more exposure than the original Caterpillar drain plug. Never had a problem of any kind using it.
I recently found Welcome to OilDrainValve.net, authorize online dealer of EZ Oil Drain Valve. which is similar to a Fumoto but looks more secure. I'll probably look at it more closely before the 1st oil change on the new coach. Since I only have 1,500 miles on it, I have plenty of time to do research. Sorry about that ridiculous URL but that was the only way I could get it to work.
Regarding oil filter removal, I always used a cold chisel to punch a hole in bottom of filter to drain it. Without draining, a hot, overflowing filter was guaranteed to slip out of my hands and hit the pail with a big splash.
__________________
Jim Barber
2015 Bay Star 3124
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|