Overhaul on 96 front sway bar bushings

[ArTravler]

I need to rebuild the front sway bar on the front of my 1997 F53. The bushings where the lower left and right ends attach are totally gone. I have found several web sites that offer these bushing parts. Does anyone have any comments on which brands are better or worse? Some are black and some are blue! Not sure if that means they are different materials.

I also wanted to replace the two bushings that attach the bar to the frame, although they appear to be ok. I wanted to replace them with some that have grease fitting capability. The only ones I can find go up to a maximum of 1 ¼” diameter. The bar on this model is 1 5/8”. Has anyone ever found replacement bushings this size? I saw some on E-bay for the 1 ½” diameter rear bar, but nothing for the front.

I also noticed almost all of the paint is gone and the bar is rusting. What paint is left is flaking away. Would it be logical since I am rebuilding the bar to remove it, clean, prime, and repaint?

Any comments are welcome! Thanks!

[4Knights]

Front sway bar bushings on my 94 pace arrow literally fell off. Went to local chevy dealer and got OEM bushings for $25 ea. Should have checked the Internet because there is a thread on this forum that has better bushings for $9 ea. Search main site for sway bar bushings
Ron

[ArTravler]

After reading a lot of posts about the aft sway bar bushing I got under the RV today and took a look. Just like everyone else the frame attachment bushings deteriorated completely away. Looks like I will be going to E-Bay to get some Poly bushings like everyone else. The Lower Link attachment bushings are also Tango Uniform! I have a set of Mog bushings for the front on order so it looks like I will be ordering another set for the rear.

[4Knights]

Now you know what that clank, clank , clank sound was every time you hit a bump. I thought we forgot and tied the dogs to the bumper again. Just kidding. Now I have to go look at the back of mine, never considered the back. Duh!

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArTravler After reading a lot of posts about the aft sway bar bushing I got under the RV today and took a look. Just like everyone else the frame attachment bushings deteriorated completely away. Looks like I will be going to E-Bay to get some Poly bushings like everyone else. The Lower Link attachment bushings are also Tango Uniform! I have a set of Mog bushings for the front on order so it looks like I will be ordering another set for the rear.

Could you post the images a little larger so we could read what the yellow says?
Maybe use photo bucket.

[ArTravler]

Sorry about that! I tried rewokring the photos but they came out the same size. There are larger photos in my album plus additional photos.
http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=1222&ppuser=40028

[Midniteoyl]

From the pics, it looks like you just might have to order new links too.. those look pretty rusted out and will prolly break when removing the nut.

You can try to soak them over a couple of days with a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone.. works wonders.

[jdr37]

Go to: Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - 1995 Ford F53 XL 8 Cyl 7.5L

I have purchased both the sway bar bushings and tie rod bushings for my '95 F-53 -- all good stuff and very reasonably priced.
Dave

[subford]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArTravler Sorry about that! I tried rewokring the photos but they came out the same size. There are larger photos in my album plus additional photos. http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=1222&ppuser=40028

The photo I was wanting to see was the second one down. It is the one with the damper.
I do not see that one in your the link you posted.

[ArTravler]

Quote:

The photo I was wanting to see was the second one down. It is the one with the damper. I do not see that one in your the link you posted. __________________ 1994 COACHMEN Santara 350FL On a 1994 Ford F53

I forgot to post them when I reloaded the photos. There are two photos for the steering dampner. Now posted in the photo album.

ArTravler Album - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

[ArTravler]

I got the front sway bar and steering dampener removed. The lower link bolts and nuts were not budging so I soaked them down with penetrating oil. I hope that helps. The other weird thing is the link lower bolt and nut is not quite ¾” hex head and is not metric. My ¾” socket, box wrench and open end wrench slip over the flats when I bear down to break the nut loose. This is stock so anyone removing the links beware! I guess I will have to try some crescent wrenches.



Since I have the sway bar out I will clean it up strip the rust away, prime and repaint. The frame bushings are in good shape so no problem there.

Here are some additional photos of the steering dampener. The dampener is 17” long from center line to center line of the attachment bolts when fully compressed. When fully extended it is 29 ½” long. When I push the shaft in on the old dampener it travels down to 26” with little to no resistance. After it gets to 26” there is some resistance and it builds up the further I compress the shaft. So I rule this old dampener trash!







I got the Moog bushings in today for the front sway bar and links.

[Midniteoyl]

Quote:

The lower link bolts and nuts were not budging so I soaked them down with penetrating oil. I hope that helps. The other weird thing is the link lower bolt and nut is not quite ¾” hex head and is not metric. My ¾” socket, box wrench and open end wrench slip over the flats when I bear down to break the nut loose. This is stock so anyone removing the links beware! I guess I will have to try some crescent wrenches.

Try a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone.. works wonders and is better even than Kroil or PB Blaster...

The nut itself seems 'small' most likely because it is.. you lost some to rust. Once you get it good and soaked, try a pipe wrench.. just be carefull that you dont twist the link and break it. Of course, that might be what has to happen anyways. Might wanna think about ordering up some new ones.

[ArTravler]

Quote:

Try a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone.. works wonders and is better even than Kroil or PB Blaster... The nut itself seems 'small' most likely because it is.. you lost some to rust. Once you get it good and soaked, try a pipe wrench.. just be carefull that you dont twist the link and break it. Of course, that might be what has to happen anyways. Might wanna think about ordering up some new ones. __________________ Jim '89 SunVista Hi-Rise Vets helping Vets: www.vets.yuku.com

The fasteners are not the small nuts on top the link, they came of pretty easily. The ones giving me the problem are the ½” bolts that go through the bottom link bushing.





I hit them with PB Blaster but will take your advice and try the tranny/acetone mixture. I had the same idea about using a pipe wrench! Thanks!
If worse comes to worse I will take my air chisel and take the head off the bolt!

I finally figured out what I was doing wrong and getting only the small photos in my post!!

[subford]

Make sure the new damper will extend as much as the old damper or it will limit how sharp you can turn and also blow out the new damper.
The same goes for the new damper when fully compressed, make sure they are the same from center line of the bolt hole to center line of the other bolt hole.

By the way can you tell me the size of the bolts that were in the old damper, not the wrench size. What I want is the hole size in the brackets at each end for the damper.