Community Forums

Kahoona · 08-17-2018, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boondockin

Be careful when bleeding the brakes on these... the master cylinder has a built in differential switch on it (plastic switch on the side with two wires) manually bleeding the brakes on these will activate the internal cylinder that activates the differential switch on the brake master cylinder... both times this has happened to us, it began leaking brake fluid from the switch itself. I replaced the brake master cylinder the first time it started leaking, it was like this when we purchased it used, I used a power brake bleeder for the job, flushed all the lines with new fluid, had no issues. The second time it began leaking, we were on a road trip and the right front caliper began to drag. I replaced the caliper at a rest area, gravity bled, then pumped the pedal and bled. When pumping the pedal and manually bleeding you inadvertently create a differential pressure situation and activate the internal differential pressure cylinder... brakes worked fine, good firm pedal, but it began leaking from the switch again. Obviously I didn't have the power brake bleeder on the road trip, I would have purchased another power brake bleeder for the caliper replacement if I would have known what I know now... hope this makes since... bottom line, do not manually bleed these brake systems, get a power bleeder if you are going to do this yourself, it's simple to use, works great and one person can completely flush the entire brake system in about 30 minutes start to finish...

Wow! Did not know. Bled them manually. No problem so far. Couple of thousand miles since. Perhaps I lucked out. I'll keep an eye on it. Any suggestions on what I could do to prevent the leak from starting now?

Kahoona · 08-17-2018, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wackymac

Do you have to remove the caliper anchor plate to remove the hub to repack the front wheel bearings?

I decided to have mine done. Cost me $550 but I didn't have time to order seals, wait then order bearings if needed. Also it looks like a job that is easier with a lift. That said I do not think you have to remove it but if you do it is easy to do. Just heavy. Be careful to support that caliper well. Those hoses get old. Probably better to change them while you are at it.

Stay greasy
Kahoona

Pirate · 08-17-2018, 05:22 PM

Yes you do. And the worse part is the bolts are torqued to 300. The rears are a real PITA. I needed a special tool/adapter as you can't get a socket on the bolts. Ford sells the bolts with blue locktite on them.

Pirate · 08-17-2018, 05:25 PM

Buy a tire dolly https://www.nextag.com/product/North...id=p6190519341 and use speedbleeders. Makes the job easy. The tire dolly is slick.

Russ Silber · 08-17-2018, 05:50 PM

Why not just find a good
Mechanic. Most truck shops know the F-53. My shop in Melbourne Fl does excellent work at a resonable price. Only uses Ford or top shelf parts. Use to do all repairs years ago. Now no more busted knuckles.
Good luck with your project. If doibg brakes repack wheel bearings and perhaps new calipers and turn discs or replace. You'll be good for years.[emoji41]

seadaddler · 08-29-2018, 05:56 AM

what about doing the rotors like having them surface cut and new pads but not
nice clean new surface on rotors even if not bad you think don't need resurface.
With new pads but rotors not nice flat clean will not make for good stopping.
Nick

Waiter21 · 08-29-2018, 06:07 AM

IMHO-

Unless my rotors are damaged, I re-use them as is.. They may not be 100% optimal, and I may not get the maximum life out of the new pads, but as long as there isn't any damage, I re-use them.

NOTE - On my MH, I change the pads when they get 10 - 15 years old, regardless of wear. They usually have a lot of material left, I'd say 1/2 worn, but when the pads get old, they get brittle and start flaking,