Perplexed about check engine light issue

[ClassAboater]

We took the past eight days and traveled from WA to S. CA. Nice trip overall for November weather.

Two days ago, we stopped for the night in Patterson, CA. As we pulled off interstate 5 we fueled up before stopping for the night. When I startedup up the engine after fueling up, the check engine light stayed on. Thinking it could be the fuel cap, I tightened it stopped for the night then we headed another 200 miles the next day. The check engine light stayed on all day...

When we stopped in Bakersfield for the night, I went to Auto Zone and got a OBD2 scanner and ran it last night. It came up with a code of P2195, O2 sensor, biased/stuck Bank 1 sensor 1. ( I copied all the freeze frame info if needed at letter date)

Doing research on this last night, this morning I checked the engine for any noticeable vacuum leaks, pulled and checked the MAF, checked the wiring to the O2 sensors. Everything looked normal. I cleared out the code with the reader and then we did another 300 miles today with no new check engine light coming back on.

We are driving a Fleetwood Terra LX 32 on a 2006 Ford F53 chassis with the V10 engine. We added Banks torque tubes about 1800 miles ago. Never was there an issue on how the engine ran before, during or after the check engine light was on.

Is this just a fluke, or is there any reason to think about getting a mechanic involved at this time? thoughts?

[R.Wold]

Id find someone with a formal diagnostics program on a laptop like AutoEnginuity ScanTool. That will tell you exactly what happened and why. Could have been a loose connection, could be a bad sensor waiting to throw a code again, or it could have an issue, but I think thats the least likely. A simple code reader at least tells you what it isnt, but not very in-dept diagnostics.

Where are you tonight?

[ClassAboater]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

Where are you tonight?

We are in Desert Hot Springs through the Holidays. I agree on the laptop scanner check. Thanks.

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by ClassAboater

We are in Desert Hot Springs through the Holidays. I agree on the laptop scanner check. Thanks.

O2 sensores are eady to change out. Make sure to use OEM parts most others are crap. They do get sooted up and fail. Changed both out on my V10 took less then 1 hour. One from inside the drivers side from out side.
Plug and play light goes away[emoji28]

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by ClassAboater

We are in Desert Hot Springs through the Holidays. I agree on the laptop scanner check. Thanks.

Im passing through there on the 29th. Hopefully you’ll have this resolved before then. If not and you are still in the neighborhood, shoot me a pm.

[Arch Hoagland]

When you pulled the MAF did you clean it with MAF cleaner?

I fought an intermittent O2 sensor problem for over a year, including replacing the O2 sensor.

Finally it got really bad and then I cleaned the MAF. Instantly fixed the problem and I got a ton of power back. That was four years ago and haven't had a problem since.

[ClassAboater]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

Im passing through there on the 29th. Hopefully you’ll have this resolved before then. If not and you are still in the neighborhood, shoot me a pm.

Thanks for the offer to drop by. I should have this sorted out this week if all goes well

[ClassAboater]

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

When you pulled the MAF did you clean it with MAF cleaner?

I fought an intermittent O2 sensor problem for over a year, including replacing the O2 sensor.

Finally it got really bad and then I cleaned the MAF. Instantly fixed the problem and I got a ton of power back. That was four years ago and haven't had a problem since.

The MAF looked brand new when I pulled it out with nothing that looked like it could be an issue. I can re-pull it out and use MAF cleaner. I think I will take it into a shop and get a proper scan on it. Seems like that is not too much money/time and they should find the issue from what their scanner says.


As I went through the engine and O2 sensors yesterday, I pulled off all sorts of connectors and reconnecting them could have solved the issue. Nothing seemed lose, but just slipping a plug off and reinserting it will get a clean surface for the wires to connect properly.



I did find a few vacuum hoses that I will replace this week. It would be nice to hook up a smoke machine to see if any of them are leaking.



Fortunately, this is not rocket science, so should be pretty straight forward working out.


Thanks for all the replies.

[Fugitive861]

Weather it’s my motorhome, Jeep, truck or wife’s car when I get a check engine light I usually clear it once. If it returns I will test/replace the suspect part. In my experience about half of the time it never returns. The other half gets a new part. If it were me, I’d clear it and see what happens. If it returns, replace o2 sensor. Good luck.

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by Fugitive861

Weather it’s my motorhome, Jeep, truck or wife’s car when I get a check engine light I usually clear it once. If it returns I will test/replace the suspect part. In my experience about half of the time it never returns. The other half gets a new part. If it were me, I’d clear it and see what happens. If it returns, replace o2 sensor. Good luck.

Use OEM O2 sensors others are junk[emoji28]

[eddieelk]

Check your gas cap. Since the problem appeared after filling up, that will trigger the light. Eddie Elk.

[vettenuts]

Originally Posted by ClassAboater

We are driving a Fleetwood Terra LX 32 on a 2006 Ford F53 chassis with the V10 engine. We added Banks torque tubes about 1800 miles ago. Never was there an issue on how the engine ran before, during or after the check engine light was on.



Is this just a fluke, or is there any reason to think about getting a mechanic involved at this time? thoughts?

How far away from the cylinder head is the O2 sensor located compared to stock? Are both sides the same distance from the cylinder head?

Headers can cause O2 sensor issues and sometimes they won’t get hot enough because they are moved farther from the head in the collector. Colder weather can exacerbate the issue. For now, since you reset the code, I would drive it and note the conditions should it come back.

For the check engine light to reset, the ECM must pass the same test it failed and usually there is a multi-pass requirement before the light will go out on its own. So having the light on the next day might have been due to the multi-pass requirement as opposed the the error still being present.

[JackHD]

Originally Posted by vettenuts

Headers can cause O2 sensor issues and sometimes they won’t get hot enough because they are moved farther from the head in the collector. Colder weather can exacerbate the issue.

^^^^ YES!

[THenne1713]

I had a O2 sensor code intermittent for a year on a T&C; would clear if I put 89-octane; finally replaced and all good for past year. Sometimes, just out of cal/ out of spec?