Problems overheating (Long)

[Fakrwee]

I hope someone can help or have an idea as to what could be the possible problem. I not very mechanical minded other than the regular DIY stuff. Sorry it’s long but there’s no other way.

I have a 2007 Itasca Suncruizer 33V with a 2006 Ford F-53 22,000 lb. chassis. The MH has 29, 411 mi. It has been trouble free until 3 months ago. Back in July MH had a false overheating which is covered by a Ford TSB. Took the MH in to the dealer and they changed the thermostat and the crossover pipe and off I went. Everything was working fine.

In August my wife and I went to the East Coast for vacation in the MH. We started back home toward Ca. at the end of Oct. While crossing into Texas the MH developed a high pitch intermittent noise not unlike a fan belt going bad. I stopped a couple of times but all belts were fine. It went away after a while and we continued the trip. I don’t know if this has anything to do with the problem.

When we were about half way between Amarillo Tx. and Tucumcari N.M. The MH started losing power, I looked at the scan gauge and water temp was up to 225F. I looked for a spot to pull over and the check gauge light came on. The Interstate 40 is a very dangerous highway due to the high speeds people travel and lack of safe pull over spots. I finally came up to an exit and pulled into a truck station, got off and looked under the hood, under the MH but there were no signs of overheating. There was no smoke or coolant leaking. Checked the coolant level and it was only missing about a half to an inch of coolant. Topped it off, ate lunch and continued on.

25 minutes later MH starts overheating again and losing power, I pull over under a bridge, checked everything again and all seemed normal. This time when I restart the MH I start hearing a clackaclackka. I know this is not a good sound so I turn it off and called Ford emergency service.
I don’t want to bore you with all the details but this happen on a Saturday afternoon. Had to be towed to a campground and wait till Monday. You get the idea.

Ford finally found a dealer in Clovis N.M. after sending us to a dump first. The dealer used a scope and found damage on the walls of 2 pistons but could not find out the total damage without dropping the engine. Next they pulled the engine and found damage in piston 4 and 6. Ford decides to install a long block because cause was determined to be faulty thermostat. Long block was installed and MH checked out.

We picked up the MH on Friday Dec. 12 at midday. We were planning to go up to Platte City Mo. to spend X-mas with grandkids. We were no more than 80 mi. from the dealer than the MH started showing the same symptoms’ that it had shown before the breakdown. It started losing power and temp going up. I immediately stopped, pulled over and called the dealer. I told him temp had gone up to 200F’s again. He had me check a couple of things and temp dropped like a rock. Tech told me not to worry and go in peace. He told me 197F to 206F was to be expected due to calibration on the computer that was going to change my shift points. I thought it was odd because my tranny shifted like a dream, took off again and MH overheating a second time. Turned it off and pondered what to do. Decided to start up one more time and turn around but the tick—tick-tick started again. I knew what that meant.

I Called Ford emergency again. Being Friday I was told I would have to wait till Monday to go to a dealer, sound familiar. This time they took me to Amarillo and diagnosed to have the same problem as before, damage to piston walls. Since they did not have the tools to drop the engine the MH had to be towed to another dealer. Guess who, the same dealer that fixed it before.
Well the MH goes to Clovis tomorrow and my DW and I are going to spend Christmas with the grandchildren in Platte City without the MH.

Anyone have any ideas as what could be happening. Ford is going to install a new long block but I’m pretty sure we’ll have the same problem. This is really starting to cause us major headaches..

Thanks for any ideas.

[Izzyblueye]

FAKRWEE" I am sorry I do not have a clue as to what the problem may be. However, I hope you will follow up on this interesting situation and let us know of any thing you find. Having two long blocks do the same thing is against all odds. I drive a Ford chassis and have a keen interest in your situation.

[Fakrwee]

Hi Homer, thanks. Today the MH is being picked and towed from Amarillo Tx. to Clovis N.M. about 100 mi. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this time the cause will be found.

Tom

[jrcnlc]

Sounds like fan clutch.I had one bad an cooked engine dident do it all time.With new engine started to heat up on hard pull.Put fan on fixed.

[tderonne]

Sure it only got to 225? Or was that just what it was one time when you looked? 225 is nothing. A water coolant mix boils around 250 with a 15 psi cap. Engines are regularily tested up to 250. And it didn't boil over? Something doesn't quite add up.

Keep us posted...

On edit:

Bad waterpump? I forget if the three valve uses ECT or CHT. CHT should catch a lack of flow, ECT typically doesn't, one reason to go to CHT (That's Cylinder Head Temp vs. Engine Coolant Temp.).

If they just put in a new longblock, one theory would be that they swapped the trouble from the bad engine to the new one. That could happen with a waterpump, but a bad pump should be fairly obvious, the impeller is exposed when the pump is removed.

Fan clucth, as guessed? You would think you'd be OK driving along, but you never know. How hot was it outside?

[lllkrob]

I might suggest having them look at the lower radiator hose and /or the radiator itself. Have you ever changed coolant before this began? I believe Ford went to a long life coolant in 2005 or 2006. This coolant cannot be mixed with some types of regular antifreeze. If this has happened the radiator could become partially clogged. I have seen lower hoses collaspe causing overheating problems that were very difficult to diagnosis because the hose would return to normal as the pressure equalized in the cooling system after the engine was shut down. If it happens again, just look at the shape of the lower hose to see if it is sucked together. If so, the problem is either the hose or a flow restriction in the radiator / cooling system.

[tderonne]

And it does seem to be something that got past the failsafe cooling, which would be looking at CHT. Hmmmm....

Is it a 2007 chassis, like the coach? Shouldn't matter, '06s were the same, just try to nail down a good theory.

How about it isn't cooling at all! How about fueling? A lean condition, even for a short time under load, could overheat a piston without overheating the coolant. Crack a ring land and it'd make a mess of the bore. Hmmmm....


You mention a check gauge light came on. Check gauge, right, not service engine soon? Have any codes ever been set? Should have asked that first.

[Fakrwee]

Wow, thank you all. I sent the Ford mechanic that's working on the MH the link to this site. His name is Bill.

Summing up the ideas until now.

1-Fan clutch by jrcnic

2-Tim's comment on how coolant temp is measured, ECT or CHT. If it's CHT it would have caught the lack of flow. Tim your right about the temp it was 225F when I started to pull over but by the time I shut it down it was about 245F. Outside temp was in the 70’s. The check engine light did not come on, only the check gauge light. I don't know if any codes have been set.

3-Lower radiator hose collapsing by lllkrob in addition to the long life coolant not mixing well with other coolants is interesting.

4-Not cooling at all due to lean fuel which can damage engine without showing signs of overheating.

Bill will start working on the MH as soon as they get a place to park it. Hope this time the problem get’s solved.

Tom

[tderonne]

I wish I could edit my last post. I'd rephrase:

"How about it isn't cooling at all!" to:

"How about it isn't a cooling system issue at all!"

That is, maybe the cooling system isn't the root cause, a lean condition could overheat a piston before the water temp would go up.


Thanks for the update.

[Fakrwee]

Originally posted by tderonne:
I wish I could edit my last post. I'd rephrase:

"How about it isn't cooling at all!" to:

"How about it isn't a cooling system issue at all!"

That is, maybe the cooling system isn't the root cause, a lean condition could overheat a piston before the water temp would go up.


Thanks for the update.

Duly noted Tim. I can't edit the post but thanks for making it clear.

Tom

[BounderDan]

I just wish to second the faulty fan clutch thought. At just 2K miles ours made a clunk and clack noise (much as you discribed)on start up. Fan clutch was replaced and it has been problem free now for two years and 16K miles. Danny

Saturn Vue pushing a Bounder 35E

[Fakrwee]

Originally posted by BounderDan:
I just wish to second the faulty fan clutch thought. At just 2K miles ours made a clunk and clack noise (much as you discribed)on start up. Fan clutch was replaced and it has been problem free now for two years and 16K miles. Danny

Saturn Vue pushing a Bounder 35E

Thanks Dan.

Update: Ford customer service called me today and said the tech thinks the water pump went bad and that is what is making the noise. They won't know till Monday. I hope it's this simple. I'll be crossing my fingers all weekend.

Tom

[Fakrwee]

Just a quick update. Motor was pulled and due to internal damage Ford ok'd another long block. New engine should arrive tomorrow.

The majority of the damage was caused by prior Ford dealer taking it out for a test drive thinking the problem was transmission. ???

Tom

[expo]

Good for you fak!!!

I hope the rest of your travels are unengineventful.

Way to keep after them