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07-03-2014, 10:25 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,301
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In concept and principle the Flat-rate system does work. One can always find exceptions. There are those that use and those that abuse the system. That does not make it bad. If you have a choice don't frequent those shops that abuse the system. Talk to the SM and or owners. It's really up to the shop foreman and the owners how it is implemented and followed.
Another case in point. Our Government also in concept and principle works well. It has for many, many years. It's really up to Congress and the president to implement the Constitution and laws of this country. As we can all attest to it's not working very well now but it's still the best country in the world. That's why people are flocking to and thru the borders.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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07-09-2014, 07:22 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 379
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Well, to get back on topic, I got the rear diff leak repaired by the pros. Why? Because I didn't have the weight rated jack stands I would have needed to get the work done safely and my life is worth more than $311 ($550 minus what my warranty covered). I went with a new place that was recommended to me by the RV dealership near where I lived because they have an excellent reputation for house work but they don't service the chassis.
The mechanic had to lift the rear by the frame to get the axle to drop low enough to get around the fuel tank and then remove the rear sway bar that runs right across the rear differential cover. When I picked it up yesterday the mechanic crawled under the rear with me and showed me how the last time the job was done someone had just wrangled the cover off and had left old silicon on the bolts, got it all over the rear sway bar they apparently decided to not remove, and otherwise did a rush job of it.
I saw the actual diff cover myself and it was damn near spotless, the silicon wasn't over flowing around the cover like the last one was, the mechanic actually torqued the bolts to spec, and he had even cleaned up the sway bar before putting it back on. Then I told him I was thinking about having the transmission fluid and coolant done soon and he showed me both fluids and said they look like they were recently done and it wouldn't be worth my money to replace them right now.
So if you are traveling through Albuquerque, NM and need a recommended RV certified mechanic shop I can wholeheartedly say that the ACDelco Advanced Automotive on Juan Tabo and I-40 is a pricey but thorough place to stop. You get a professional job done by mechanics who take pride in their work.
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07-09-2014, 10:38 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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Interesting.. on the 05, the sway bar is in front of the diff. No access problems, so you can do this job without lifting the vehicle.
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07-09-2014, 10:56 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kitts Hill, OH
Posts: 2,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Lindy
......... Most cover leaks are nothing much more then a seep.
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X2 agree adn to the OP I bet your took YEARS to get where it actually put a drop on the pavement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
......
Permatex Ultra Grey, RTV Silicone gasket maker. Chrysler part number tag taped over the original. 82300234 that number will be old & Canadian , this tube has been in my tool box since I retired , seven years ago.
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X2 agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay
What D Lindy said is good advice. If the DF is close to full just top it up and have a good time. Also don't worry just enjoy.
The DF cover looks like it's been leaking for some time with all the caked dirt. I'd shy away from trying to get it to seal with just silicone. I've done that many, many times especially on the old small block Chevy's with marginal success. There are some other tubed gasket making materials that might work but I prefer to use a gasket. The best and most sure way is to use a gasket. Wait and get one from the dealer or NAPA.
.......
TeJay
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I prefer attaching the gasket to the cover with ultra RTV. Then i apply a thin coat of the same RTV to the top of the gasket. I'm never had one leak using this method. I do the same on water pumps and thermostat housing gaskets
(those that don't use O-rings)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider
I just had this repaired at Ford. They charged me $200. The fluid isn't cheap and you'll need the appropriate limited slip additive.
I would, as suggested above, simply start by checking the bolts. If that doesn't work - the short term repair is with oil-proof sealant (let it set up over night) - or order the right gasket. I tend to use both, but it's really up to you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider
Be aware that per my invoice, the 4 quarts of fluid and limited slip additive are about $80.. Without adding any labor.
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I personally think you got hosed CBrider. on both the oil and the labor.
That's a 20 min job tops. unless the mechanic was being paid to drive to a parts store.
__________________
(RVM#26) THE U-RV 94 F-700/24 foot U-haul box home built RV
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07-09-2014, 12:01 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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They told me what it cost up front.. It wasn't a surprise. I paid for the convenience.
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07-10-2014, 06:31 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider
Interesting.. on the 05, the sway bar is in front of the diff. No access problems, so you can do this job without lifting the vehicle.
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My rig is an 05 Fleetwood Jamboree. Of course it is on an 04 Chassis but how is the sway bar in front of the diff? You have the drive shaft right there...
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07-10-2014, 09:32 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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I should say it's forward facing, at the diff. Doesn't block access to the rear cover...
Photo:
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07-11-2014, 06:27 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 379
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Nice redesign. That certainly would have make the job easier in my situation. And your shocks are vertical where mine are at an angle on the axle which means you probably have a some what better ride.
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07-11-2014, 08:24 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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Not my RV, just an example that I pulled off the internet... :-)
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08-12-2014, 05:38 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Full Timers
Posts: 460
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I am also having a problem with the rear differential leak on a 2011 Thor Chateau (31R) on the Ford 450 chassis. I am having a hard time finding a repair place in my town or within 100 miles. Does anyone have a DIY for changing the differential fluid to see how big of a job this is IF I attempt to replace the seal/RTV myself?
Thank you in advance!
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08-12-2014, 05:55 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,435
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JAY: Welcome to iRV2.
If your sure it's the rear cover leaking , and not the pinion seal and the fluid just blowing back the cover is a DIY job provided you have the right tools and drain pan , fluid etc.
If the pinion seal ( at the rear U joint ) is the problem , special tools involved , not DIY.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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08-12-2014, 06:11 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Full Timers
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
JAY: Welcome to iRV2.
If your sure it's the rear cover leaking , and not the pinion seal and the fluid just blowing back the cover is a DIY job provided you have the right tools and drain pan , fluid etc.
If the pinion seal ( at the rear U joint ) is the problem , special tools involved , not DIY.
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From what I can tell, it is the cover that is leaking. It isn't overly bad but it is coming from the bottom end of the rear cover. I have put a wrench and all bolts are tight. I am trying to see if there is an actual seal or just RTV. I can see Grey RTV on the cover now, but trying to make 100% certain.
Does anyone know how much fluid would be required to complete the job? Any recommendation on a fluid spec? I was thinking Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-140. Would that be a good choice?
Thank you in advance!
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08-13-2014, 06:32 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBuchanan
From what I can tell, it is the cover that is leaking. It isn't overly bad but it is coming from the bottom end of the rear cover. I have put a wrench and all bolts are tight. I am trying to see if there is an actual seal or just RTV. I can see Grey RTV on the cover now, but trying to make 100% certain.
Does anyone know how much fluid would be required to complete the job? Any recommendation on a fluid spec? I was thinking Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-140. Would that be a good choice?
Thank you in advance!
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Get the specific gear oil resistant RTV. When I went through all the frustration of trying to determine if there was a gasket for the cover I ended up calling Ford directly and they said they use the RTV now. And that is also what the shop I went to used without direction from me.
Try doing a search for an ACDelco shop in your area. They tend to be pricey but most do RV work.
If I recall correctly you are going to need something like 7-8 quarts of the lubricant and there is a special additive as well. Should be easy enough to find at any NAPA store in stock (as well as the RTV you will need). If you recover your old diff oil and it is relatively clean you can just reuse and top off but I would recommend just changing it out myself.
As far as DIY, it really depends on how accessible your rear diff cover is. If the sway bar is in the way then you are going to have to remove it. If your sway bar is sandwiched between the gas tank and the rear diff cover then you are going to have to lift the rear end to get the axle to drop and then remove the sway bar. Being as you have a 2011 though I can't say if that will be a problem. I have seen the newer models with the sway bar in front of the rear axle thus eliminating the whole issue.
My best advice is make sure you jack stands are rated to the weight of your rig, get a big oil pan to capture the diff oil, open the fill plug and siphon out as much as you can to reduce the mess when you remove the diff cover, and clean the bejeebus out of everything when you are down there before applying new RTV. If you don't you will be down there doing it again in no time. Get a can of brake cleaner to degrease all the mating surfaces and the outer part of the cover. This is the most critical part of the whole process. Once that's done just follow the RTV application instruction and put the diff cover back on. I would try to find out the torque specs on those bolts and make sure they are torque correctly. Let the RTV fully cure and then fill up to the fill plug with the diff oil and additive. Take it for a test drive to let everything get nice and heated up and then check for leaks.
Were it not for having to deal with a sandwiched sway bar requiring me to lift the whole rear of the rig I would have done it myself but having 14050 lbs of rig sitting on jack stands to save a couple of hundred bucks just didn't seem worth it to me.
Good luck.
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