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12-19-2012, 09:46 AM
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#1
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yakima, Wa.
Posts: 122
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Rear swaybar bushings
I noticed when checking sway bar that original bushings were ovaled out, so I ordered some poly ones on ebay. My question is since it is snowing here in Wa. and we will be in Az next month,is this a job that can be done with hand tools? If so would love to here from someone who has done this, is there tension on the bar, do u need to have raised on jacks to take of weight? I will go out and start soaking the bolts with W40 now maybe it will help when I get there. Need to use hand tools rv park will frown on air tools. Any info appreciated Patrick
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12-19-2012, 11:04 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Easton, Ks
Posts: 2,836
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I have no idea what you are working on (year, F-*50 or F53).
But to replace mine on a 1994 F53, yes I had to jack it up with the leveling jacks to get the bushings on with the tires not touching the ground. I then also put jack stands under the frame.
Other than that just had tools.
__________________
Bill
1995 COACHMEN Santara 350FL on a 1994 Ford F53
subford@gmail.com
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12-19-2012, 11:10 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 64
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Bushing Replacement
I replaced mine a month ago. I only used a hand held 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench to remove and replace the bushing caps. I had no trouble removing the bushings and I was able to push one side back up by hand to replace the bolts. I wasn't strong enough to manhandle the other side (maybe I should have done this 40 years ago) so I got my wife to manually operate the leveling jack to raise the chassis until I could manually move the sway bar only slightly in order to insert the bolts. Don't forget to grease the bearing surface. Not only does this results in better handling but I had a slight lean to one side due to one bushing being almost gone. This corrected that also. It took me about 2 hours - most of that was wasted time trying to manhandle the side I needed the levleing jack assistance on. I dd not know the correct torque for bolt tightening, but I just tightened them to the number of foot-pounds required for me to have to run to the bathroom - probably around 80 ft-lbs.
__________________
Greg & Elizabeth & Strudel, the wonder dog
Barnwell,SC
2006 Georgetown 370TS
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12-19-2012, 03:07 PM
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#4
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yakima, Wa.
Posts: 122
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Swaybar bushings
Sorry in the last post I forgot to state the year 97 Dolphin with F-53
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02-25-2013, 03:26 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,886
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No jacks on a '99.
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03-05-2013, 10:22 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stone Mountain, GA
Posts: 959
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I have a similar question for a '96 F-53 Itasca, but for the front sway bar. Anything special I need to watch out for?
__________________
Ken, Judy, and the Angels--2005 Fleetwood Southwind--2008 Cargo Trailer--2003 EZGO Golf Cart
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03-25-2013, 09:48 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Conway, AR
Posts: 70
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03-26-2013, 05:30 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 858
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Not difficult
When I bought mine back in september I crawled under just to check the undercarriage for signs of rust, leaking, whatever. Then is when I discovered the bushings on mine were virtually melted away. I ordered the new bushings and clamps for mine because one bracket on mine was bent. But replacement was a breeze. Park on level ground and easy to do with hand tools. May want to have a small bottle jack handy for aligning the bar if you are working alone but that is all. No need to jack up MH or axle, etc.
Good luck - new bushings still look good, bright and blue!
BTW - mine is a 2003 f-53 22,000# chassis.
Also, just used 1/2 drive socket wrench, think the bolts are 14mm, not quite sure, but no air or power needed for this one.
__________________
Tom and Patty
The "Rode Crew"
2012 Itasca Navion J - Sprinter Chassis.
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04-09-2013, 02:17 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 65
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I replaced all mine on my f-53 with poly bushings last year. Jacks up or down doesn't matter since the sway bar will be neutrally loaded when the coach is "level". Easy, cheap job with immediate pay-off. the poly ones are harder, so they will transmit more vibration, but will not rot during storage like the OE rubber ones.
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04-09-2013, 02:30 PM
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#10
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yakima, Wa.
Posts: 122
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THANKS for all the response about the swaybar bushings. I replaced mine and it made a considerable difference on our 3800 mile trip. Thanks again
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04-11-2013, 03:12 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
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sway bar links (or what's left of it)
I have to give thanks to ArTraveler for the great write up and documentation.
Since I am new to "boundering" I just fix little things as I go. Was wondering why it felt like riding an elephant. Well, just pulled out the sway bar links in the front. See for yourself, I guess it was time. Yes, it can be done with hand tools
although the main bolt is in there with Loctite, so it needed some additional convincing. Replaced both links within an hour.
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04-30-2013, 08:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Chetwynd, BC
Posts: 293
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Just finished replacing my rear bushings (about an hour) and installed front air bags. short test drive in the wind is telling me we done good. hurray.
__________________
Brentw
3500 Duramax dually
Fuzion 325 Toy Hauler with a GL1800 Goldwing
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05-01-2013, 05:17 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Clinton On
Posts: 205
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Were do you buy your bushings for rear and front.
Don
__________________
2013 Georgetown 335 DS
2016 Ford Focus SE
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05-01-2013, 08:29 PM
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#14
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Registered User
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yakima, Wa.
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donlock
Were do you buy your bushings for rear and front.
Don
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Ebay
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