Community Forums

Bvista · 01-23-2019, 05:35 AM

Seems the aftermarket Rear TB has poly bushing in them but the DIY TBs do not have a poly bushing in them. Will the bushing eliminate vibrations? If so, will the DIY TB pass vibrations from the axle to the frame?

cwit · 01-23-2019, 06:34 AM

I have diy front and rear with no problems or vibrations. Best thing I did for handeling and big trucks passing.

DENSHER · 01-23-2019, 06:55 AM

The bar needs to pivot on the pins. The bushing provides maintenance free anti-friction and anti-corrosion purposes. Those without a bushing need to have a grease zerk to lube the pins periodically.

TeJay · 01-23-2019, 07:06 AM

The DIY rear TB was posted because about 30 or so folks asked me to. No there are no bushings used with it. The TB has been on for 20,000 miles with no issues.

By definition any rubber bushing would allow some movement in the system which is what we are trying to eliminate.

I do agree that a good poly bushing would add some longevity, perhaps some improvement but would also add to the cost. The DIY design was built for less than $50 in materials.

A friend asked if I'd build one for him. The original design was changed so I decided to make two new ones and upgrade ours as well. Always looking to change/improve things so we came up with a simpler, slightly lighter and easier to install design.

Still used a farm tractor top link to connect to the frame. As before once the top link sleeve length was correctly adjusted both ends were plug welded. Why plug weld the ends??

The (TL) Top Link does come with one locking nut on the threaded end. That will keep one end from moving once in place. However the threads on both ends are a little sloppy and allowing any thread play in that area (IMO) is just asking for trouble.

IF YOU DON'T KNOW??

What is plug welding??? Drill a 3/8" hole through both sides of the TL sleeve. Clean any metal pieces around the hole so it will thread back on. Once the TL is installed on the RV and adjusted correctly mark and tape both ends so the sleeve won't move. Remove the TL and weld the four 3/8" holes level with the sleeve surface. I realize it might seem like a bit much but the sleeve will not move again.

All pivot areas were lubricated. The tractor top link threads and swivel joints are case hardened for operation in a farm environment. I'm certain the lubed areas will be OK. The TB movement is slight so I'm not at all concerned. I will monitor it annually and if necessary remove and lube it as needed.

The two grade eight 3/4" bolts are installed with blue lock tight and self locking nuts. They are not torqued which would require about 250 ft/lbs of torque to stretch the bolt. IMHO!! When lock nuts and lock tight are used torquing is just over kill.

I'll post a pic when I have time today!!!!

TeJay · 01-23-2019, 08:41 AM

Here's some pics of a new for me designed TB!

This is for the Ford F-53 DANA 80 differential (18,000 lb chassis) and I made a template for the rear plate. Thee most critical aspect of making the plate is to get the hole spacing correct. The plate is made from 1/2" plate but you could use 3/8"

harleyjt · 01-23-2019, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

Here's some pics of a new for me designed TB!

This is for the Ford F-53 DANA 80 differential (18,000 lb chassis) and I made a template for the rear plate. Thee most critical aspect of making the plate is to get the hole spacing correct. The plate is made from 1/2" plate but you could use 3/8"

TJ - Just curious how you attached the frame bracket to the frame. Did you weld it on or drill and bolt?
jt

lpc · 01-23-2019, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bvista

Seems the aftermarket Rear TB has poly bushing in them but the DIY TBs do not have a poly bushing in them. Will the bushing eliminate vibrations? If so, will the DIY TB pass vibrations from the axle to the frame?

In your post you referenced vibrations. Do you have a ford or another type of chassis. The reason I ask, is track bars should not add to and or produce vibrations. You may want to take a look at a post on IRV2 titled intermittent steering column vibration. It is a post I posted and received good advise from all who responded. If you are experiencing vibrations you may wish to consider other possibilities. I made a rear track bar for my Holiday rambler, it works well. They are relatively easy to make , but as sated in this post the hole spacing has to be accurate. Good luck with all.

Bvista · 01-23-2019, 02:08 PM

Thanks for the reply. I am not currently experiencing any vibration. I just wanted to make sure the hard connection from the axel to the frame wouldn’t translate any new vibrations. I am hopefully going to build a TB for the rear and am in the research stage.

Bvista · 01-23-2019, 02:10 PM

Thanks to all for your replies! Hopefully I can make my own TB and get it installed this month!
Love the Picts and advice TeJay, thank you!

Mr Nuck · 01-23-2019, 03:27 PM

Tejay would you be interested in making and selling one to me? I have the same 18,000.00 pnd chassis.

Nuck

pushtrk99 · 01-23-2019, 03:39 PM

Check out OEMYS DYS trac bar site Rich Peceniak made one that bolted to big u-bolts in the rear --Works super for Ford F-53 & P-32 chassis

TeJay · 01-23-2019, 03:46 PM

harleyjt,

I wouldn't try to weld 1/2" plate to the much thinner frame material. The settings have to be high enough to melt the 1/2" plate which could be an issue with the thinner frame material. That would kind of scare me.

I could turn the welder down and weld 1/8" plate to 3/16" or 1/4" plate because they are close to the same thickness.

I always use a backing plate on the outside of the frame as well. It's made the same size as the frame inside plate and is either 3/8" or 1/4" thick. Basically all you are doing is backing up the bracket with a large washer to spread out the pressure. Probably overkill but I feel better about it.

If I remember correctly there's at least one hole and maybe two holes in that area of the frame already. You shouldn't have to drill any. I don't remember drilling any holes on the one I built for a friend.

The bracket is 1/2" thick and I used 1/2" grade 5 bolts. The bracket I built for my first TB had two plates welded vertically. I think that's more than enough. What I've been doing lately is only using one piece of 1/2" plate welded vertically on the bracket to attach the top link. Why use two plates when the differential plate only uses one?

Excesses · 01-23-2019, 06:08 PM

We didn't do a DIY, but we can verify the fact that since we had the install done at Brazel's, we don't feel passing trucks near as much. Probably reduced blowby and push by 85%. So as they say, just do it. Highly recommended.

Cheers

DJ

House Husband · 01-24-2019, 10:35 PM

Have you ever noticed that all professionally/properly manufactured suspension components have rubber or poly bushings on the attachment points. That serves 2 purposes. It offers a cushion to help eliminate metal fatigue and helps reduce road noise and transmitted vibrations to the driver/passenger compartment. You do your vehicle a disservice by building suspension components with out bushings at attachment points. Or maybe all the car, truck & RV chassis manufactures have it wrong?

Richard