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Old 01-07-2013, 11:02 AM   #1
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Rear Track bar

I recently read that later versions of the F-53 Chassis have a track bar (or panhard bar?) installed from the factory.

Thinking about putting a rear track bar on our 2011 Ford chassis (GVRW 22,000) and can't recall if I have one already.

The 2011 three page Ford chassis brochure I checked didn't mention it so I assume it does not have one.

Roll
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:38 AM   #2
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Front panhards started appearing on some GVWR chassis in '04. There has never been a rear one from Ford.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #3
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Our 2012 F53 chassis did not come with a rear trac-bar....installed one myself though.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Our 2012 F53 chassis did not come with a rear trac-bar....installed one myself though.
They are expensive. Did you notice enough difference in handling to make it worth the cost?

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Old 01-07-2013, 06:39 PM   #5
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They are expensive. Did you notice enough difference in handling to make it worth the cost?

Roll
Not expensive if you build it yourself, but check on e bay.
I built mine out of thrown away stuff I found at a salvage yard, a little bit of welding stuff together & buying about $20.00 worth of grade 8 bolts & it made a great deal of difference in handling.
That tail wag you feel, some of it comes from the rear axle walking side to side under the chassis & in turn throwing the front of the coach from side to side, so your chasing the steering wheel to stay in your lane.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:05 PM   #6
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I got the trac bar from Brazel's RV. Put it on my self in about a hour. Also got rid of the junk bilstein shocks while I was at it. What this did for ride and handling was (priceless) to say the least. Put the koni shocks on the front also. And Centramatic wheel balancers on all four corners. Now this thing drives straight and smooth. It wasn't cheap, but I think way cheaper then a new Dutch Star DP. That how I justify it to myself.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #7
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kscrude - I went to the Centramatic to learn more. Curious how this device works and if it works as advertised. Did you experience less vibration and a smoother ride? Also looking to swap out the bilstein shock. What a shame but like you, a smooth ride is everything. Thanks.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:46 AM   #8
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The rear track bar will make a big difference for the good. If you buy new or used the later rear end housings have a different bolt mounting pattern. Here's a picture of a home made one on a 2006 chassis.



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Old 03-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #9
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kscrude - I went to the Centramatic to learn more. Curious how this device works and if it works as advertised. Did you experience less vibration and a smoother ride? Also looking to swap out the bilstein shock. What a shame but like you, a smooth ride is everything. Thanks.
Truckers have been using them for years with good results. I have tried balancing beads but never liked them. I am sold on the Centramatics. I called them up in Texas and they explained everything real good and told me what would fit my rig. Also tried a set on a peterbilt at the same time and the driver loves them. You won't be disappointed, I know I am not. About two hundred per axle and easy to install if you can take the wheels off.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #10
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Nicely done. At $500+ for store-bought trac bars, the home made version is enticing. Were the ends of the pipes fabricated or purchased? If there's a source for pipe and ends, the rest of the project is straight forward.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:47 PM   #11
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If you have a racing shop near you, a couple of heim joints and a threaded strut bar will do the trick along with some class 8 3/4" bolts
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:17 PM   #12
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If you have a racing shop near you, a couple of heim joints and a threaded strut bar will do the trick along with some class 8 3/4" bolts
Found this website. They sell custom length adjustable bars with ends and the mounting brackets.

4-Link Round Adj. Bar with Poly Bushing
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:09 PM   #13
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The 4-link bar looks good if you don't want to do much welding, you would need a 32" bar then fab up some brackets. I used 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" black pipe and rear spring bushings with one new bolt to the housing. The upper housing bolts were the old bolts. On the frame I use a hole that was there and drilled one new hole. All parts were scrap stock except for the three bolts, so less than 20.00. It made a big big difference.
I also made a watts link but we sold the couch before we tried it.

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Old 10-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #14
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My version of a home made track bar is shown below. Must have if towing a toad 4 down. I can now drive one handed like driving a big car instead of being a "sheep herder" trying to jockey the rig down the road steering from side to side. Build or buy one, do the cheap handling fix and marvel at how well your rig now handles!
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